HI guys

I am just in the middle of modding my L48 from 1979, and wanted to ask some advice if anybody had similar problems.
I put on Edelbrock Cylinder heads and wanted to put on shorty headers. but somehow they don't fit. Sparkplugs don't fit under anymore, impossible. ( ok it was some noname homemade shorty from ebay) so there they go.. ( too bad, it was a good job and cheap, stainless steel)
So here goes, next shot.
I can't decide between
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=WLK-86008
or
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=HED-68308http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=HED-68308

Anybody have experience with the dynomax ones?

Other question. what temperature sending unit fits in the edelbrock cylinder heads? very strange thread size..

Thanks
mk

 

My opinion is.....

Hookers Super Competition...... long!
....and a good dual exhaust at least 2.5" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

If you are looking for headers that you can remove the spark plugs easy like with a ratchet or spark plug wrench, forget it they don't make them. Some spark plugs have easy access while others are near impossible. So save yourself some money and see it there is any way to put the spark plug in, sometimes you have to use a open end wrench, I had to do this to get one spark plug out on my old motor

 

What a cool idea! An "open face" socket.


I am going to do that. Getting plugs in is a serious

 

Oh...to answer your question, I use Stans Headers (they are Tri-Y) model #109Y

 

Yes, I have them. I think, for fit & finish, they're excellent. I can get to all the plugs & didn't have to modify them to get them on there. I've removed my aircon so don't know if there's any issues with the compressor. Surprisingly, the supplied collector gaskets sealed & have stayed sealed for about 5 years now (they didn't look like they'd last long!). I tightened the reducer bolts in sequence just tweaking each one a little bit in turn. It's tempting to really wind them up, but don't, just nip them up tight & leave them. As for the actual header to head joint, I bought some expensive copper gaskets from Summit. I like copper gaskets, they can be annealed and re-used plus they seal well. I threw away the supplied bolts for fitting the headers to the head & bought some Allen head set screws (3/8" UNC?????) & spring washers, all in stainless. You can tighten them up easily with an Allen key (wrench?). After I'd heat cycled it all I tightened up the Allen screws again (imperative as the header gasket crushes slightly) & think I may have checked them after about 500 miles? Can't remember, but I've not had to touch them since. The finish is still as good as the day I fit them (apart from the bit where an oil leak has been dripping on them) & I'm very happy with them. Also, I'm convinced that engine bay temps & cabin temps have been reduced since fitting them & a stainless exhaust system.

One thing to check is that the ports match up with the exhaust ports of your cylinder heads. Or, if they don't match, that they don't restrict the heads ports at all. I'm currnetly having fun & game trying to find out if the Dynomax ports will restrict the ports of the heads I'm thinking of buying

 

ok thanks no when I say the sparkplugs don't fit , I mean I would have to cut a hole in the header because the sparkplugs would stick into them, and then the sparkplug cables are not on yet!

 

These Tri Y sounds interesting but I am way over budget already

 

I think I'll go for the Dynomax, good price I find. Are the supplied screws really no good? I was also going to get some ARP 12 point screws. I wanted to stay with the Double-Y exhaust for now and only put a true Dual on next year (I'm low on cash now..) Is this possible? I was wondering how far the headers go back under the car.

What is a good dual conversion kit?
for Automatic T350, and fiberglass rear spring , so it has to go together in the middle.

 

..... how-much difference is there in-fitment, depending-upon using straight-plug, or angle-plug heads, as Edelbrock manufactures BOTH style heads?

 

The supplied bolts are just that: bolts. With Allen heads I know that I can just stuff an Allen key in there & turn them without any messing about having to use different wrenches/sockets that I might have to do with the supplied bolts. The locking ones looked interesting but, so far, some off-the-shelf sst Allen heads & spring washers have done well.
I made my own system up to fit the headers. Rather than trying to explain, I'll try to post a picture:-



The headers point down slightly, so each pipe has a bend of 15* in it just after the collector to bring the system up level with the underside of the car. The only other bend is an 85* bend at the end to point them out to meet the mufflers. X-member is a custom one, the stock 80/81 one would need to be modified. I did have a Mid America true dual system, but the work needed to modify it to join the headers was probably about the same as making a system from scratch. All the joints are a slip fit (expanded one pipe of each join) so that the system can be partially dismantled (also allows for a bit of adjustment in positioning before clamping up).

The fit of Dynomax headers on angle plug heads is something I'm trying to find out. A good sticky would be people listing what headers work with what heads (AFR, Edel, Brodix, etc), whether they're straight or angle plugs, etc.

 

..... with under-hood pictures, showing access to plugs, would be even-better!!!!!

 

My sparkplugs come out straight. and rather far I find.

 

I just put a set of Dynomax headers on my 1980. I'm surprised at how well they fit and install. I have Dart Pro One straight plug heads on a 383. Plenty of room for plugs and wires as I've test-fitted them on the engine stand. They are easiest to install from the bottom up although the passenger side will go in from the top as well. I do have the A/C compressor off for now as I get this new motor going. I still can't get over how easy they were to install compared to the last Corvette ('73 - Doug Thorley headers) I put headers on.