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I will have to continue to use my vacuum operated headlights until I mount my fixed lights and all the needed body work. I want to remove all the vacuum lines from the motor to clean things up. Seeing as how I don't use vacuum brakes any more the only things I would leave connected are the distributor, transmission modulator, and PCV system. All of which is neatly located on the motor.
The rest of the system...that snakes in through the dash, and up to the lights...is something I could do without.
I was thinking, if I had an electric pump to create the vacuum needed up front in the vacuum tank, that I could remove the engine from the headlight vacuum system.
I have a spare LT1 electric smog pump lying around. It looks like I could very easily wire it to an IGN source so it runs when the motor is running, and just connect it's inlet to the vacuum tank.
I will try connecting it to a tank and testing vacuum with a gauge but I was wondering if anyone knew what kind of vacuum it actually produces and what the minimum for the headlights is? I was thinking of mounting this pump up front by the tank.
I can find these pumps cheap online...would two working together double effectiveness?
I found this electric pump cheap, and it looks like it'll work great. I'm thinking if I use this pump I can either remove the large nose tank and either run no tank or just install a smaller tank.
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Are you having trouble with your headlights rising or staying up? Even if they rise a little slow I couldn't imagine going through all that trouble and extra weight of a pump to eliminate so little of the vacuum system.
Are you having trouble with your headlights rising or staying up? Even if they rise a little slow I couldn't imagine going through all that trouble and extra weight of a pump to eliminate so little of the vacuum system.
Yep. I have more testing to do with the relays and such but I know I have under 10 down at the lights. When I tested last it was about 7 at idle.
I can guarantee I have a bigger cam than you and my headlights work good, not great, but good enough.
Solid roller cam, 272*/280* at .050. .680 lift. 107 LSA. It idles at 1200 rpm and doesn't smooth out til 2500 rpm.
Well the auxiliary pump is plan 'B'. I plan on replacing the headlight relays and performing seal kits on the actuators. If that doesn't fix it and I still can't find a leak I'm going with a simple pump until I mount my fixed headlights.
I even check the shaft bushing for wear and tested to see if air was leaking in through there.
Well the auxiliary pump is plan 'B'. I plan on replacing the headlight relays and performing seal kits on the actuators. If that doesn't fix it and I still can't find a leak I'm going with a simple pump until I mount my fixed headlights.
I even check the shaft bushing for wear and tested to see if air was leaking in through there.
I had to replace both my relays before the lights would work. They weren't very expensive, I think $55 each.