i am starting to plan for the rebuild of the engine. the l48 must go and something with more power needs to be installed.

here are the parts i've picked so far. i've rebuilt a few engines before but they were mostley stock so i'm not experienced in choosing aftermarket parts. please let me know if i should change things or do something different .

-used 4-bolt 350 (i won't know how much it will need to be bored out until i get it, for now i'll say .030 over)
-eagle cast steel crank, 3.75" stroke, 2 peice rear seal, 5.7" rod length http://store.summitracing.com/partde...I&autoview=sku
-eagle forged i-beam 5.7" connecting rods, pressed pin
- hypereutectic pistons http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku , speed pro, will give me 10.34 : 1 compression with 65cc combustion chamber and .039 head gasket
this is with a .025 deck height which i assume is the standard deck height above the piston

-afr 195 cc aluminum heads ( to big for the 383?) with 65 cc combustion chamber
-edelbrock air gap rpm intake
-hooker sidemount headers
-MSD billet dist. with 6A box(already have)

i called comp cams, here's what they recommend
-comp cam xr288hr-10
int./exh. lift=.520/.540
duration=.288/.294
duration@.050 lift= .236/.242
110 lobe seperation
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...8HR-10_001.asp
-comp cams retro roller lifters, hydraulic
-1.5:1 roller rockers
-holly dp about 750cfm

what do you guys recomend for a stall converter? something like 2500
i have a th400 with 4.11 gears. building the engine for street/strip. is this cam going to be too much for the street? can i run 91 octane?
thanks in advance

 

If you are getting a new crank anyway, why not go with a 383 or a 396? The 383 cast cranks are the same price as the 350 cranks. The 195 AFR heads are probalby overkill for the 350. Also, your compression ratio is a little on the edge.

 

Looks good the 195 afrs will be a good match for a 383 size engine.

 

More cubes. And yes, be sure to check that compression ratio with the cam that you do decide to go with.

 

4.03 bore (sealed power/speedpro -12cc dish piston 1.425" CD P/N H859CP30)
3.75 stroke
mill ~ 0.013" from block (target 0.012" deck height)
5.8 cc x 0.028" thick composition gasket GM P/N 10105117
64 cc comb chamber
-12cc dome volume
yields 383ci @ 10.3:1 scr and great 0.040" quench

friendly, accurate scr calculator:
http://www.21cgt.com/FMWebCatalog/frmConversion4.aspx

You might consider a later model block ('86 up) already setup for OE roller cam. It's a 1-pc rear seal (eagle has same internal but for 1pc). Probably no need for 4 bolt main w/ above combo. My local machine shop will drill & machine late fuel pump boss for about $75.
-edit-IMHO, MSD waste of $ for anything similar to above; a good HEI is plenty. Also, late OE roller block would negate need for expensive retrorollers ... might come out cheaper going late. You can find a full set of NEW OE hyd rollers for $125 or less.

 

thanks, those pistons will be a good choice. i already have the MSD and box. i'll look into the later blocks. but i still don't have a clue what cam to get. anyone have suggestions?

 

Call Crane cams or Lunati or whichever cam manufacturer you choose & give them all your specs & intended use of the car. Let them suggest the cam for you. They can run it through their cam profile program so you get what you need. I would trust their recommendations since they are in the business & want you to be happy with their product. Better than taking a shot in the dark or finding out the hard way that someone suggested a particular cam that doesn't perform as well as you would like. Just keep your expectations of what you want realistic.

 

ttt. i 've updated the parts. let me know what you guys think of my combo so far. and thanks for the advice

 

My 10.4 to 1 383 has the Comp XE288HR with a 114 LSA. I would stay away from the KB Hypers.

 

i have heard some bad stuff about them, i'll see if i can find another set

 

ttt

there's the final list in my first post. does it look good? i know it's a cliche question and hard to tell, but how much power can i expect?

 

Look Here. www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

 

i actually have that page in my favorites, but never thought to look at it. this combo is pretty similar to mine except i'll be useing an edelbrock airgap rpm intake , the AFR 195's ,and will have almost 1 point higher compression.

Combo 17.
Combo 17 is the last combination from the AFR web site. This combo uses the same parts as Combo 16, except a more aggressive roller cam is used. This engine is over the 500 HP/ 500 ft-lbs mark—it could easily achieve low 10's in the quarter mile in a Nova, Camaro, Corvette, etc. This engine is one of the most powerful engines on my site and is perfectly streetable. Just imagine what a healthy dose of nitrous could do.
Displacement: 383 cu. in.
Carburetor: Holley 750 double pumper
Heads: Air Flow Research 190cc Street
Intake: Air Flow Research FloPower RPM
Camshaft: Comp Cams hydraulic roller, with 236/242° of duration @ 0.050 in. lift, and 0.520/0.540 in. lift
Headers: 1 3/4 in.
Distributor: MSD
Timing: 34°
Comp. Ratio: 9.5:1

MAX HP: 503 @ 5500
MAX Torque: 517 @ 4500

these are some pretty good numbers. i hope i can come close to that

 

That is my build with 10.4 comp, Tripower and a 150 nitrous system.

 

that's great! what octane do you run? and are you running 34* like they say in the list or 36* timing ? sorry for all the questions i just don't want to run into problems later

 

Engine assembled and sitting in line for dyno tune. Will definetly be a 93 octane motor. Will post dyno results but impatiently waiting.

 

Regarding combo info there ... little/no info regarding quench height, deck height, gasket thickness, rod length, octane etc. Optimal Timing ... be it 34*, 36*, 38*, 40* or whatever ... optimal timing is directly affected by each & all variables including jetting. Bottom line, don't expect to time a 5.7" vs 6" rod piece ... same goes for tight quench vs wide.

 

I am running AFR 195 race ported heads, AFR Hydra-rev, 6" Callies rods with Mahle flat tops, Zero deck .039 gasket. Crank is a 4340 forged Eagle Lightened and Machined by AMS. Bobweight 1740.
Mine will be Dyno Tuned to get optimal jetting, Dist curve and timing. Best way to go.
Have a window switch and timing retard for the triple plate nitrous system.

 

o.k. thanks everyone for the help