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After reading a (DB's) post about fan controller wiring I would like some opinions on mine before I finish it.
It has taken me a while due to other commitments but I am almost there.
What I want to know is can I hook up the relay + and Spal PWM controller + to a junction box I have set up next to the alternator? I have run a heavy gauge wire from alternator Batt terminal to a junction box on the wing. From there I have hooked up the old charge wire and a new heavy gauge charge wire to the starter.
What I am concerned about is the controller getting high volts or spikes from this connection, but I was intending on using it as that was the whole purpose of the junction box.
I want to avoid the starter lug as its tight down there with a starter shield already. Also want to avoid running to the battery.
Functionally it will work, BUT, If you got the PWM controller from DC control he highly recommends battery connection. It aparently relies on the battery for a big friggin filter
I ran the power to my SPAL controller from the starter lug. If you work beneath the car it's not THAT tight plus you get to cover yourself in all the oil that's leaked out of the engine for the past 30 years. My first SPAL controller was defective but I hooked the second one up exactly the same way and it worked fine.
I have a spal contoller half installed. I cant really hook up on the starter as I have hardly no clearance from the lug to the shield.
I had a hard enough time getting the charge wire on without it shorting out. I really need the shield too as it has solved my heat soak problem. Once the starter goes then a mini torque one is going on and would solve this problem but for now i'm stuck.
Is using a source so close (not on) the alt such a problem?
What is it I need exactly and can anyone post me a link to one so that I can find it in the UK?
I am assuming that this "thing" needs to be fitted on every + feed that picks up at my junction box??
Thanks for your help
Maybe pick up a car audio capacitor. They come in many sizes. I am no expert on how big it would need to be but maybe something in the 3 - 5 farad range.
I don't know what size the capacitor is, but it's supposed to keep the controller from blowing up. The SPAL problem seems to be something different - they don't blow up, they just start acting strange.
I'm redesigning my charge system to both insulate electronics from any sort of spikes while not running any more heavy wiring over long distances. At the same time, I'm still going to use the filter.
I'm going to do the same thing as soon as my dual spals get to me. I ran a fuse block from the battery compartment to the small middle compartment (via the 8 gauge auxiliary wire) where I have a couple of things hooked up. I plan to run another hot wire down the console (with a relay for my FAST computer) and then through the firewall for the fan power. Not sure if I need the controller yet or not, going to read up on what the FAST computer will do exactly.
dave