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Fan controller wiring

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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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Default Fan controller wiring

Hi guys,

After reading a (DB's) post about fan controller wiring I would like some opinions on mine before I finish it.

It has taken me a while due to other commitments but I am almost there.

What I want to know is can I hook up the relay + and Spal PWM controller + to a junction box I have set up next to the alternator? I have run a heavy gauge wire from alternator Batt terminal to a junction box on the wing. From there I have hooked up the old charge wire and a new heavy gauge charge wire to the starter.

What I am concerned about is the controller getting high volts or spikes from this connection, but I was intending on using it as that was the whole purpose of the junction box.

I want to avoid the starter lug as its tight down there with a starter shield already. Also want to avoid running to the battery.

Any suggestions?
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 08:34 PM
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Functionally it will work, BUT, If you got the PWM controller from DC control he highly recommends battery connection. It aparently relies on the battery for a big friggin filter
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 08:56 PM
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I ran the power to my SPAL controller from the starter lug. If you work beneath the car it's not THAT tight plus you get to cover yourself in all the oil that's leaked out of the engine for the past 30 years. My first SPAL controller was defective but I hooked the second one up exactly the same way and it worked fine.



Rick B.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 02:47 AM
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I have a spal contoller half installed. I cant really hook up on the starter as I have hardly no clearance from the lug to the shield.

I had a hard enough time getting the charge wire on without it shorting out. I really need the shield too as it has solved my heat soak problem. Once the starter goes then a mini torque one is going on and would solve this problem but for now i'm stuck.

Is using a source so close (not on) the alt such a problem?
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 09:26 AM
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What kind of filter is required to protect the Spal controller from +14 votls and for any spikes and surges that could damage it?
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 09:28 AM
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You can salvage a large filter cap from an old copy machine, stereo etc..
It will be about the size of a beer can
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
You can salvage a large filter cap from an old copy machine, stereo etc..
It will be about the size of a beer can
Is this like a car stereo capacitor? I have seen a 1 farad one but was wondering if this is what I need.

Sorry my electrics are kind of limited

Last edited by lil_red_devil; Oct 24, 2007 at 04:53 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
You can salvage a large filter cap from an old copy machine, stereo etc..
It will be about the size of a beer can
Yikes. The filter cap that Baskin sells for his controller is a bit smaller than a "C" cell battery.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Yikes. The filter cap that Baskin sells for his controller is a bit smaller than a "C" cell battery.

Size doesn't matter... ...so long as it suppresses that controller killer spike.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 08:45 AM
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Sorry guys I am a bit useless with this stuff....

What is it I need exactly and can anyone post me a link to one so that I can find it in the UK?

I am assuming that this "thing" needs to be fitted on every + feed that picks up at my junction box??

Thanks for your help
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by lil_red_devil
Sorry guys I am a bit useless with this stuff....

What is it I need exactly and can anyone post me a link to one so that I can find it in the UK?

I am assuming that this "thing" needs to be fitted on every + feed that picks up at my junction box??

Thanks for your help

Maybe pick up a car audio capacitor. They come in many sizes. I am no expert on how big it would need to be but maybe something in the 3 - 5 farad range.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 11:18 AM
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What is it that actually does the damage? Is it the voltage spike or the amperage spike? Or am I just talking s**t?

The power caps that I have found are said to control spikes from 16v up to 20v. The alt wont give out more than 15 anyway will it?

Dam I give up I think i'm gonna give up on the controller and turn the fans by hand......
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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Hi guys,

I spoke to Spal today about this wiring issue and it seems that they also recommend hooking directly to the battery rather than at the alternator.

Thought I should share this as it seems a common point on both spal and dcc controllers. Maybe that is why these things "crap out" ??

I think I have to bite the bullet and pull up the carpet and run some wires back to the battery.

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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 09:10 PM
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I don't know what size the capacitor is, but it's supposed to keep the controller from blowing up. The SPAL problem seems to be something different - they don't blow up, they just start acting strange.

I'm redesigning my charge system to both insulate electronics from any sort of spikes while not running any more heavy wiring over long distances. At the same time, I'm still going to use the filter.
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 03:22 PM
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I'm going to do the same thing as soon as my dual spals get to me. I ran a fuse block from the battery compartment to the small middle compartment (via the 8 gauge auxiliary wire) where I have a couple of things hooked up. I plan to run another hot wire down the console (with a relay for my FAST computer) and then through the firewall for the fan power. Not sure if I need the controller yet or not, going to read up on what the FAST computer will do exactly.
dave
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