Earlier today I noticed a pool of power steering fluid underneath my 77. It was dripping off the power steering control valve. The seal that connects the valve to the pitman arm was leaking. I do not know why this happened, I havent driven it since friday. What could be the cause of this seal going bad? I have limited mechanical experience and rebuilding the valve would be one of my biggest projects. Is it recommendable that I rebuild the valve or shoud I buy a new one? Thanks for any input.

 

If you look at the valve you'll notice a seam where 2 halves are bolted together. The half where the pitman arm connects has grease in it, the half where the p/s steering lines attach has p/s fluid in it, There is a seal at that center seam that keeps p/s fluid out of the grease side, your seal failed and the fluid comes out of the ball stud area. Your valve might be rebuildable, seal kits start about $25, better kits with more parts are about $50, but you won't know if it's rebuildable until you inspect the spool and housing inside for wear. You can buy new valves, and rebuilts are also available. I would stay away from all of the rebuilts and if you are up to it, take yours apart and rebuild it yourself. You'll need an Overhaul manual or you can download the instruction pages from this link..http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=4. If you take your valve apart, keep track of the orientation and order of all the parts. To remove the valve from the car you'll need to separate the ball stud from the pitman arm and there are a couple ways to do it depending on who you ask. A pickle fork can be used but you risk damage to the steeing gear and the ball stud/seats. This puller from Astro Pneumatic will prevent damage to parts and works well.

 

You know its 30 years old, just get a new one. I would also replace the 4 hoses that go to it while you're at it. You'll be better off in the long run

Paul

 

 

I just got mine from VB&P. I got complete steering control valve renew kit.. came with valve,dampner,4 lines and fluide for like 180.00 i think..

Pattie will take care of ya.

 

And by the way..After I purchased everything it was just the line that was leaking.. Was split on the only line that does not have a screw nut on it..

 

I replaced steering valve, ram, and all pipes, everything was leaking, best thing in the long run, I did notice on the new steering valve, there's no grease nipple, the holes filled in, maybe to stop peeps over greasing them?? I got the valve from zip.

dave

 

please excuse my ignorance, but what is VB&P

 

That is Vette Brakes, a supporting vendor. See the top sticky thread here.

 

Or, better yet:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1799999

 

Careful with the threads on the hoses. Make sure you got them going in the correct spots on the valve - and watch out for crossthreading them.

 

If anyone is changing these do them one at a time, then there's no cross-ups

 

after you replaced your valve, did you notice the steering any tighter?

 

show me 1 that does'nt leak

vc

 

An individual who rebuilds these valves for a living told me to not get carried away when greasing them. Doing so can disturb the seals resulting in leakage. He recommended giving it a shot of grease periodically with the engine running.

 

Early valves had a zerk fitting and a stud seal that had a tiny duckbill purge slit molded into it up near the stud. You couldn't overfill because the excess grease just spilled out of the slit. Later (around 1976?) the zerk was eliminated and the stud seal was changed to eliminate the slit. These valves were advertised as "greased for life." Obviously, no one thought that "life" might be 30+ years!

Now I think you are getting old housings that are being remanufactured. Those housings have the old zerk fitting but are reassembled with new stud seals without slits. People squirt grease into the stud housing; the stud seal bulges with pressure; and the excess pressure sometimes inverts the lip seals in the control valve causing a leak.

I would almost suggest not greasing the valve at all because of the danger of causing a hydraulic leak. You also might be better off removing the zerk fitting and installing a plug.

Jim