Thanks Torquevette but he is not showing disrespect. If anyone spent as much time as I did this last summer and learned what Tuner had to say he would really learn something. Tuner is the most knowledgable guy I have ever listened to when it comes to tuning carbs. He is a mast and I followed his advice and got double the fuel range from a tank and my car never ran better.
Lean ONLY refers to WOT. It does not refer to running at cruising speeds. You can only be lean at WOT. If you motor will run at 20-1 while cruising under light load that is NOT lean. Planes when at cruising altitude throttle the fuel down to get maximum economy.
I cruise at 16 or 17 to one and the exhuast gas temperature go DOWN
I have 4 four probes in the exhuast monitoring temperature at all times and when the mixture is leaned and I know I just said it can't be lean at cruise but I lean out the fuel air ratio and exhaust gas temperatures go DOWN with less fuel.
Maximum exhuast gas temperatures are at 14.6 and any more fuel or any less cause the temperatures to go down.
You can not burn a motor up under light cruise loads running with as little fuel as possible.
White plugs under crusie are fine.
I have also been running blowers for 8 years and I constantly try to tune for mileage, horsepower is just adding more fuel and less timing. Mileage is about pulling fuel out and advancing the timing.
I pulled my last motor down after years of running and it looked new inside, pistons looked great and no burning anywhere.
I believe in tuning for what I am going to do with the car the majority of the time and for me that is cruising and spending time driving places. I do not want it rich, a gas hog, or washing the cylinder walls down with wasted fuel.
As for inject putting out more top end power that is debateable. 8 barrels of a wide open big carb can really move alot of air and that is what a blower is all about, moving air.
Anyway like I posted earlier I am not interested in spending more thousands of dollars trying to get that last ounce of horsepower out of the motor when I can't use all that I got.
My motor is easy to build. Start with a 540 cylinder block, drop in a rotating assembly designed for 1000 plus horse, buy the best cylinder heads you can find/360cc Brodix in my case, a stout roller cam 264/270 @ .050, a big 8-71 blower running 27% overdrive and a well dialed in set of 850 double pumpers although they are a little small for an all out effort but ok for what I do.
I will continue to try and fine tune next summer but only mild jetting changes and work with the timing.