After getting the car back from the chassis shop, I had following work remaining:

1) install new shifter
2) install nitrous
3) install water pump
4) install starter
5) setup nitrous fuel system (separate pump and lines)
6) charge battery
8) cut more into the hood for more carburetor clearance
9) install new throttle cable
10) install pulley and belt
11) connect converter to flexplate
12) remove speedo cable (no hookup on new tranny)
13) hook up transmission cooler with braided hose and AN fittings.
14) re-install sidepipes
15) fill transmission and adjust fluid level with running car.
16) install oil temperature gauge and sensor.
17) install remote oil filter (some fabrication needed)

Here's what I've done today:

1) installed shifter (only needs neutral safety switch hooked up)
2) completed part of the nitrous setup (some more work required - most difficult part is to install the WOT safety switch with the dominator.
3) installed water pump
4) installed starter
6) battery charging in progress

I think that I'm still on track to finish by Friday.. Will see what I'll run into..

 

18. Inform us of results with some pictues.

 

19. Shoot some nice videos and post them

 

will do... I hope to finish by Friday so that I can do some runs on Saturday.. However, I really don't expect anything from those runs as the setup has to be dialed in.. I'm afraid that the stall speed on the converter is too high..

 

Today, I made some progress on the nitrous system (2), installed the new throttle cable (Lokar) (9) as also a new spring return bracket. I also hooked up the transmission cooler (13). Removed the speedo cable (12). Will postpone #16 as I don't have the new gauge yet. Figured out a location for the remote oil filter (17). Now I need to fabricate a bracket.

 

Here's the current status:

1) install new shifter DONE
2) install nitrous DONE (engine side)
3) install water pump DONE
4) install starter DONE
5) setup nitrous fuel system (separate pump and lines) (0%)
6) charge battery DONE
8) cut more into the hood for more carburetor clearance 0%
9) install new throttle cable DONE
10) install pulley and belt DONE
11) connect converter to flexplate 0%
12) remove speedo cable (no hookup on new tranny) DONE
13) hook up transmission cooler with braided hose and AN fittings. DONE
14) re-install sidepipes 0%
15) fill transmission and adjust fluid level with running car. 0%
16) install oil temperature gauge and sensor. 0%
17) install remote oil filter (some fabrication needed) DONE (still need to tighten connectors)

Today, I finally completed the remote oil filter install.. Still need to tighten the connectors. (They require a 1 1/16 inch wrench to tighten and I'll have to buy one). This install is temporary.. Still will have to find a way to mount it better..

Here are pics of the engine and half shaft loops..

 

Lookin good so far!

You know you will need the upper arms to be NHRA legal on the IRS rear end.

Skip the side pipes. The Hooker side mount headers are more than long enough.

Good luck with the initial start-up.

I bet you're excited!

 

If nobody will ask me about the upper arms, I won't add them. They have no functional purpose, so I'll only add them if someone complains. However, around here, they really don't know how to deal with IRS cars.. I've been running in the 10's for a long time without even having half shaft loops and I even passed tech at Gainesville which is a NHRA owned track. I might leave out the sidepipes but I wonder how accurate that A/F reading wil be as the sensor is on top of the collector...

 

They do have a functional purpose.

The upper arms keep the tire and wheel upright in the case of u-joint or halfshaft failure. They also help control camber and toe movement at the launch.

The half shaft loops are more for looks.

When you break into the nines I'll bet the tech will take a better look at the car.

How close is the O2 sensor to the end of the collector? If you have an evac system on the collector the readings are going to be a little lean to start with.

 

According to HotRod's article Taxing the I.R.S.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/1...integrity.html

As for their safety purpose.. I HIGHLY doubt that I'll be able to break the 1480 u-joints anyways (nor the half shafts).. That's highly unlikely. Unless I'm asked to have them, I won't install them.. Extra weight and work..

The O2 sensor is about 4 - 5 inches from the end of the collector..

 

Hey O, looking good

Can't wait to see it run. I know you have to be excited.

Ya know, I was reading your last post and it quotes that the upper rods are for RETENTION purposes in case something was to break.

I'm glad to see you got the cage put in, but your at a point now with your car where you are past being a weekend warrior at the track. You're putting down some serious power now and need to start thinking about saftey. I know your buying the best and strongest of everything and nothing is SUPPOSED to break and it is HIGHLY UNLIKELY any will, but what if one does? Cars break every day at the track, in every class. I know you've seen them break.

Just something to think about, have fun and be safe

 

I'm not worried about half shafts and u-joint failure.. The u-joints and half shafts can take twice the power that I have..
The weak link on my setup right now is the posi.. I'll have to switch to a spool at one point.. Another weak link is my differential crossmember.. There's a reinforcement kit available to strenghten it and I might get that...

 

Very nice
I love how that front end makes it so easy to work on the engine compartment. Love it.

I have the same Tom's halfshaft loops but havent' installed them b/c there isn't enough room b/w the halfshaft and battery/storage boxes. I have to groove them to fit the loops in. But thats a winter project.
Very nice

 

Here's the current status:

1) install new shifter DONE
2) install nitrous DONE (engine side)
3) install water pump DONE
4) install starter DONE
5) setup nitrous fuel system (separate pump and lines) (50%)
6) charge battery DONE
8) cut more into the hood for more carburetor clearance 0%
9) install new throttle cable DONE
10) install pulley and belt DONE
11) connect converter to flexplate DONE
12) remove speedo cable (no hookup on new tranny) DONE
13) hook up transmission cooler with braided hose and AN fittings. DONE
14) re-install sidepipes 0%
15) fill transmission and adjust fluid level with running car. 0%
16) install oil temperature gauge and sensor. POSTPONED
17) install remote oil filter (some fabrication needed) DONE

Connected the flexplate and used grade 8 hardware and locktite.
Finished most of the nitrous fuel system..
Installed the transmission temperature sensor just before the tranny cooler.

 

That is why I did not use the Tom's upper rods. If you look closely at the center bracket they have slotted the attachment points to allow movement.

I made my own six link that allows no movement.
It keeps the rear tires at 0* camber thru the entire range of suspension travel. We have improved 60' times, (1.30) and improved footprint and tire wear.

As far as the headers, you could make some short extensions for them or just use your long pipes to get your carb dialed in then remove them. Really no sense carrying the extra weight.

BTW, there are other headers that make quite a bit more power than the Hooker sidemount.

These are just ideas for the future to help improve your ET.

 

I never had any problems with traction.. I haven't spun a single time with the latest suspension setup.. I didn't have the power to do 1.30's but I was consistently in the 1.39 - 1.42 range which wasn't bad for a little 406 and I don't even have smart struts.
I actually don't expect too exciting 60' times with my new setup as the gearing is quite different.. The TH200R4 had a 2.74 first gear and my Powerglide now has a 1.80 first gear.. Sure, I'm running about 6000 RPM stall speed (which might actually be too much) BUT I still don't expect exciting 60' times except when I'll spray off the line.

I'll run the sidepipes initially and might remove them later. However, they are only about 15 lbs for both. I don't have anything in them, so they really don't add too much weight.. I know that there are better headers on the market (Stahl with 2 inch primary pipes). However, those need adapters and aren't too cheap.. Considering that I might go with 18 degree or SB2.2 heads in the future, I didn't want to invest the money in a exhaust system as I'll need another exhaust when I'm changing heads.

 

When you start playing with the nitrous; wire the nitrous to activate at the release of the transbrake............ and hang on start small; or you may scrape some chrome off your rear bumpers......

 

I'm not going to use the transbrake for a while. My tires are radial slicks and they will break loose when shocked but they stick like crazy when pre-loaded. I will very lilely not run the nitrous in combination with the transbrake at all as I'll be racing bracket events on engine only. I'm only going to use the nitrous if racing for fun, to hit new bests etc..
The way my nitrous is wired, it will kick in activated by the WOT switch as also only between 3000 and 7000 RPM (window switch). The retard system works off the same feed and kicks in when the nitrous kicks in. Everything is secured by low fuel pressure switch.
P.S. I would also not launch off the nitrous with the transbrake without having the spool in my diff.. Might convert to spool very soon... I'll probably also change rear gears to 3.73..

 

I don't know why you want to change to 3.73 rear with a 1.80 first. That will slow down your 60'.

You'll surely make some passes first with the set-up that you have now.

I should think that you are going to want the 4.11 or maybe a taller gear in there. Especially with a 29.5" tire.

ie: With the little motor and a 5800 stall converter, 4.33 gear and 28" tire we were crossing the stripe at 135 MPH and 7500 RPM. That was in the 9.90 ET range.

Don't you think that this is about where you expect to be?

BTW I have the 4.33 PRO gears if you decide that you need them.

 

I know that it will slow me down but I can't run the full 250 shot with 4.11 gears as I'll have to trap at like 8000 RPM.. Ain't gonna happen..
I don't want to trap above 7400 RPM or so, preferably around 7000 RPM. My converter is a spragless converter and will slip a lot (expect 10% slippage or more).


Here's the current scenario:
RPM/1st gear/2nd gear
6000 64.1 115.3 0 0 0 0
6100 65.1 117.2 0 0 0 0
6200 66.2 119.2 0 0 0 0
6300 67.3 121.1 0 0 0 0
6400 68.3 123 0 0 0 0
6500 69.4 124.9 0 0 0 0
6600 70.5 126.8 0 0 0 0
6700 71.5 128.8 0 0 0 0
6800 72.6 130.7 0 0 0 0
6900 73.7 132.6 0 0 0 0
7000 74.7 134.5 0 0 0 0
7100 75.8 136.4 0 0 0 0
7200 76.9 138.4 0 0 0 0
7300 77.9 140.3 0 0 0 0
7400 79 142.2 0 0 0 0
7500 80.1 144.1 0 0 0 0
7600 81.1 146.1 0 0 0 0
7700 82.2 148 0 0 0 0
7800 83.3 149.9 0 0 0 0
7900 84.3 151.8 0 0 0 0
8000 85.4 153.7 0 0 0 0


If I'll spray a 250 shot, I expect to trap at or above 150 mph.. With my current setup, that would happen at 7800 RPM.
My engine makes good power to about 7000 RPM and falls off after that. I'm peaking at 6500 RPM I want to trap close to where HP is starting to decline significantly..

Here's the scenario with 3.73's

6000 70.6 127.1 0 0 0 0
6100 71.8 129.2 0 0 0 0
6200 72.9 131.3 0 0 0 0
6300 74.1 133.4 0 0 0 0
6400 75.3 135.5 0 0 0 0
6500 76.5 137.6 0 0 0 0
6600 77.6 139.8 0 0 0 0
6700 78.8 141.9 0 0 0 0
6800 80 144 0 0 0 0
6900 81.2 146.1 0 0 0 0
7000 82.4 148.2 0 0 0 0
7100 83.5 150.3 0 0 0 0
7200 84.7 152.5 0 0 0 0
7300 85.9 154.6 0 0 0 0
7400 87.1 156.7 0 0 0 0
7500 88.2 158.8 0 0 0 0
7600 89.4 160.9 0 0 0 0
7700 90.6 163.1 0 0 0 0
7800 91.8 165.2 0 0 0 0
7900 92.9 167.3 0 0 0 0
8000 94.1 169.4 0 0 0

I'd be trapping at about 7100 RPM which is close to ideal.. I don't really worry too much about my 60' time as with a 250 shot off the line, the car will still come out of the hole pretty hard

Those calculations are based on 10% slippage..