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So here is my quandry. I am pretty handy and try to do most, if not all, of my own work. Brakes, suspension, fuel system, interior, etc etc and major swaps like the T400 for a keisler BUT where I am useless is picking engine components to work together and get the performance I want. I can read and read but I am not good at learning that way...much more adept at learning hands on or through working / talking with someone.
I would like to be able to pick new heads, carb and intake that fits under my hood, gets me the performance numbers I am looking for with reasonable cost ($2-3K).
Should I invest in desktop dyno and mess around with combos? Or am I doomed to reading? Using so-called "power packages" etc? :bigear
Also do not want to be a drain on the board
Last edited by ShaneLU97; Nov 6, 2007 at 10:39 AM.
What kind of performance are you looking for? What engine are you using as the platform for this project, and what is it's condition as far as compression and bearings.
If you got 2 to 3K to spend just open up the summit catalog to the Edelbrock kits and pick one that fits you driving style. I prefer high torque with max RPM at @5000. I'm 39 pushing 40 and screaming at 6500RPMs down the back street is too much of an attention grabber thay ussaully ends with trouble IMO.
What kind of performance are you looking for? What engine are you using as the platform for this project, and what is it's condition as far as compression and bearings.
Looking for primarily street/strip times and some light autocrossing. Engine is the 383 gen1 from Jasper with Crane Blue racer cam, edlebrock performer intake, edelbrock 650 thunder series carb and iron eagle 220 heads. Compression is about 9.5:1. Engine is about 2 years old. At time of build, the numbers on an engine dyno were 370hp/440ft-lbs.
EDITED
And I would like to be in the 450-500 hp range. No real tangible reason except that is the part of "the dream" for now.
Last edited by ShaneLU97; Nov 6, 2007 at 12:19 PM.
Looking for primarily street/strip times and some light autocrossing. Engine is the 383 gen1 from Jasper with Crane Blue racer cam, edlebrock performer intake, edelbrock 650 thunder series carb and iron eagle 220 heads. Compression is about 9.5:1. Engine is about 2 years old. At time of build, the numbers on an engine dyno were 370hp/440ft-lbs.
EDITED
And I would like to be in the 450-500 hp range. No real tangible reason except that is the part of "the dream" for now.
Not sure what the specs on the cam are but there is plenty of hp still left on the table if you have Iron Eagle 220cc heads.
Looking for primarily street/strip times and some light autocrossing. Engine is the 383 gen1 from Jasper with Crane Blue racer cam, edlebrock performer intake, edelbrock 650 thunder series carb and iron eagle 220 heads. Compression is about 9.5:1. Engine is about 2 years old. At time of build, the numbers on an engine dyno were 370hp/440ft-lbs.
EDITED
And I would like to be in the 450-500 hp range. No real tangible reason except that is the part of "the dream" for now.
Your heads should be able to support your goal. Not sure about the cam. You are probably going to need more cam. The intake and carb are easily replaced. Your compression is a little low but could be OK with the right cam choice. You budget does not allow for a roller cam so a flat tappet is going to have to be pretty big to get the numbers you want. Look at my Signature for my internals. I have right around 480 to 500 HP and the cam is rather large and my comperssion is around 10.5 to 1.
The other thing I have been considering in the near term is swapping out the carb to a 750 with mech secondaries. I know the "forumla" generally says 650 is more than enough but magazine builds go with a 750 for large power combos. Also, what I have read is mech secondaries are better for manual trannies (which I recently changed to from an auto).
I've only owned Rat motors but I have to think that little performer intake has got to kill a lot of airflow, especially if your going for the power numbers you want. You guys with the SB's 383's and up will know better then me but I'd think to make the 450 plus numbers your going to have to be in the 6k rpm range, and therefore the setup should be made to feed that power and rpm. There's a lot of guys on here running big displacement smallblocks, such as Gordonm, with great performance. Try to find someones setup that has a similiar setup to your shortblock and heads and makes teh power you want and use them as a blueprint. Plus it's easier to find answers from someone who's been there and done that, especially when it comes down to fine tuning your setup.
A simple swap to a RPM airgap intake will help plus you will need a 750 carb if you are going to get much more hp.....what about a nice set of long tube headers an x pipe and decent mufflers...if you are going to put more fuel and air in,you've got to get it out as well.....Those are good heads and will benefit from some port work to improve flow substantially.john
A simple swap to a RPM airgap intake will help plus you will need a 750 carb if you are going to get much more hp.....what about a nice set of long tube headers an x pipe and decent mufflers...if you are going to put more fuel and air in,you've got to get it out as well.....Those are good heads and will benefit from some port work to improve flow substantially.john
Will an RPM airgap still fit under the hood? I already have a drop base aircleaner on it and I only have maybe 3/4 inch of clearance left
whatever you do, DONT just pick up the catalog and start ordering random parts, or you'll just be one of most who just spend thousands of dollars and is having trouble getting to 300hp ;0
its a science and the books will help you more then a forum (which one of 100 people do you listen to on the forum?!?!) your best bet is going to be make buddies with someone locally who actually does this for a living or otherwise
ive not done much more then change head gaskets so, take that for what its worth, but ive been following forums for many years and I see alot of these from people who had too much fun with the summit catalog and didnt bother to read
whatever you do, DONT just pick up the catalog and start ordering random parts, or you'll just be one of most who just spend thousands of dollars and is having trouble getting to 300hp ;0
Will an RPM airgap still fit under the hood? I already have a drop base aircleaner on it and I only have maybe 3/4 inch of clearance left
Shane,should do on a 73,have a look at some of the archived threads on this subject....it seems an airgap won't easily fit on 68 - 71 but the later hoods and big block hood fit...my 74r has a 383 with rpmairgap,but i did some adjusting of the engine mounts for other reasons...john
Your Vette has a 5speed? IF you have a 350cu/in motor 220cc intake runners are TOO BIG to make any bottom end torque (better suited for over 400cu/in motor.) Go with the some 170-180cc intake runner size heads ans run a HVH 1016 intake with a 650CFM Holley #4777 carb (if you want to corner hard and keep carburation happy) spend some money on a good exhaust system and you should have a 13 second ride that works well at the autocross races.
Your Vette has a 5speed? IF you have a 350cu/in motor 220cc intake runners are TOO BIG to make any bottom end torque (better suited for over 400cu/in motor.) Go with the some 170-180cc intake runner size heads ans run a HVH 1016 intake with a 650CFM Holley #4777 carb (if you want to corner hard and keep carburation happy) spend some money on a good exhaust system and you should have a 13 second ride that works well at the autocross races.
Sorry.....they are Iron Eagle 180 with 74 cc combustion chambers
Last edited by ShaneLU97; Nov 7, 2007 at 07:16 PM.
Sorry.....they are Iron Eagle 180 with 74 cc combustion chambers
Port size is a factor,velocity is also important...generally;the smaller port sizes have higher velocity and usually more low down torque,the larger port sizes usually lower velocity and torque tends to be higher in rev range....there is a balance between absulote volume and velocity....the catch is that horepower is limited in the end to the volume flowed but the trick is to make sure that there is sufficient velocity of the flow so that the engine is drivable at lower revs and working reasonably efficiently.....more flow volume does not always mean more practical power....velocity leads into the theory of exhaust scavenging and efficiency and it is more than complicated.....all of that said,you still need a decent exhaust system before anything else otherwise it is like a cork in a bottle...john