Engine Removal Play-by-Play
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Drain all fluids, from the transmission, engine, and radiator. Get in through your shifter plate and disconnect the shifter from the transmission. Disconnect the pedal linkage from the clutch. Disconnect the harnesses from the transmission and engine, and remove the vacuum, coolant, and accessory hoses. Remove the fan and shroud and *** many accessories as you care to take out. Separate the exhaust manifolds. Unbolt the drive shaft, and remove it from the back of the transmission. Unbolt the transmission from the cross member and remove the motor mount bolts. Make sure motor and trans are supported when you're doing this. Use a load leveler, and a hoist or picker, and slowly start pulling the combo forward and out.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,441
Likes: 0
position the car in a place where you'll be able to maneuver an engine hoist in front of the car and be able to roll it out from the engine bay.
disconnect the positive cable from the battery
Starting from the bottom side, car on jackstands
drain the water and trans oil
unbolt the engine/trans mounts
disconnect the exhaust
disconnect the battery cable from starter and engine to frame grounds
disconnect the driveshaft from the trans.
disconnect the transmission linkages/remove the shift lever
from the topside:
remove the hood
disconnect the radiator (I remove it as well as the radiator support so I can leave the accessories bolted to the front of the engine).
remove the distributor, you'll need to be able to tilt the engine without it hitting the firewall.
disconnect the throttle cable
disconnect ignition wiring
disconnect the fuel/vacuum lines
remove the car from the jackstands
I think that covers everything, position the hoist from the front (rent one with a long reach) and lift it out slowly checking for anything that's still connected, it helps to have another person for the removal/reinstall. There are some variations of doing this, I'm sure others will offer theirs.
Edit: DB you beat me to it.
disconnect the positive cable from the battery
Starting from the bottom side, car on jackstands
drain the water and trans oil
unbolt the engine/trans mounts
disconnect the exhaust
disconnect the battery cable from starter and engine to frame grounds
disconnect the driveshaft from the trans.
disconnect the transmission linkages/remove the shift lever
from the topside:
remove the hood
disconnect the radiator (I remove it as well as the radiator support so I can leave the accessories bolted to the front of the engine).
remove the distributor, you'll need to be able to tilt the engine without it hitting the firewall.
disconnect the throttle cable
disconnect ignition wiring
disconnect the fuel/vacuum lines
remove the car from the jackstands
I think that covers everything, position the hoist from the front (rent one with a long reach) and lift it out slowly checking for anything that's still connected, it helps to have another person for the removal/reinstall. There are some variations of doing this, I'm sure others will offer theirs.
Edit: DB you beat me to it.
Last edited by shafrs3; Nov 6, 2007 at 07:36 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
I'll be pulling my motor and tranny as well. I have a 72 sb with TH400. Is there any need to remove the radiator?? I'll be putting in a ZZ4 and 2004R. I MAY not be able to get my hoist in front, but can I do this with hoist on the side?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
It's safer to remove the radiator but in most cases it's not needed. On the other side, if you 'accidentally' put a hole in your stock radiator, maybe the wife would let you get a new DeWitts.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 450
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria Va
You will have to pluck the motor from the side of the vehicle. If not you may damage the front end. I removed my SB by myself. I put the front left side on a jack stand and removed the wheel. The hoist slid right in with no problem. Make sure you have some room to maneuver the hoist when the engine is out and hovering above the car. Also, make sure the floor is clean so the hoist doesn't get stuck when moving it around.
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Team Owner
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 26,679
Likes: 17
From: This vette goes to 11 Milford MA
St. Jude Donor '03-'05
If you have a short reach hoist, its easiest to pull the LF tire and move the hoist in that way.
This pic gives you an idea of just how much room you have when you pull the radiator and support.
This is the 454 in the white 75 that I swapped in the black 70 before I swapped in the 350 that I later swapped into the black 75.
This pic gives you an idea of just how much room you have when you pull the radiator and support.
This is the 454 in the white 75 that I swapped in the black 70 before I swapped in the 350 that I later swapped into the black 75.
Last edited by Fastguy; Nov 7, 2007 at 09:19 PM.
