Piston in Oil Pan
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,557
Likes: 0
From: Ridgeway VA
Piston in Oil Pan
About two weeks ago I wrote about "Beautiful Blue Smoke" coming out
of my right sidepipe on a '70. Well, the motor has been taken apart
and here's what was found --- 3 pistons destroyed, one piston had
parts in the oil pan, three cylinder walls deeply grooved. Now, this can
be fixed in a numbers matching engine , but because the work would
be done by a builder the cost too much - about $3000 for the work
compared to a 350-330hp crate engine at about the same price. So,
I'm going with the crate and the car should be ready next week. What's interesting is that the left head was a stock 350 but the right
head was from a 305- thus the heads of the pistons were hitting the
head and that caused the damage. Have had the car for about 9 years
- 126,000 miles - and I guess it was time for it to go. Where ever
that guy named Bubba is - well, he worked on this car. (Of note the
builder could sleeve or machine the cylinder walls (and you experts
already know this) but there could be the future chance of overheating
because the walls would be so close to the water in the engine - like
250 plus). Thanks for sharing all your stories with the Forum - I
thought I would do the same.
of my right sidepipe on a '70. Well, the motor has been taken apart
and here's what was found --- 3 pistons destroyed, one piston had
parts in the oil pan, three cylinder walls deeply grooved. Now, this can
be fixed in a numbers matching engine , but because the work would
be done by a builder the cost too much - about $3000 for the work
compared to a 350-330hp crate engine at about the same price. So,
I'm going with the crate and the car should be ready next week. What's interesting is that the left head was a stock 350 but the right
head was from a 305- thus the heads of the pistons were hitting the
head and that caused the damage. Have had the car for about 9 years
- 126,000 miles - and I guess it was time for it to go. Where ever
that guy named Bubba is - well, he worked on this car. (Of note the
builder could sleeve or machine the cylinder walls (and you experts
already know this) but there could be the future chance of overheating
because the walls would be so close to the water in the engine - like
250 plus). Thanks for sharing all your stories with the Forum - I
thought I would do the same.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento (Citrus Heights) California
Ouch!
At least keep all the parts and see if you can find the correct head. If you ever sell it, the fact that you still have (most) of the numbers matching engine will up the value for a restorer.
At least keep all the parts and see if you can find the correct head. If you ever sell it, the fact that you still have (most) of the numbers matching engine will up the value for a restorer.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 10
From: NorCal
By all means hang onto the original engine. It's true that folks have had heating problems with a BORED block, usually .060 or more, but a SLEEVED block is better than new. Instead of a .std cast iron bore (stock), you now have a much stronger engine with a steel sleeve, typically standard. I sleeved every turbo motor I've ever built.
Hans
Hans
