Is this the kit I would need to replace the body bushings? Also how hard are they to replace, please don't tell me the body has to be removed from the frame.





http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=ENS-3-4102R

 

That kit will do the job. The body does not have to be removed but it will have to be lifted a bit, one side at a time. Remove the body mount bolts on one side and loosen them on the other side and use a floor jack with a plywood pad to lift the body a couple inches, just enough to get the old mounts out and slip the new ones in. Be sure and keep the shims together. The #1 and #4 mounts are pretty easy to get to. #2 and #3 are a bit of a challenge if you got big mitts like mine. Take the oportunity to clean and paint the mount brackets and use silicone grease on the bolt threads

 

Thanks for the input SIXFOOTER, when you say "That kit will do the job" does that mean there is a better set out there on the market?

 

Aint the search function grand....all you need to know and all you need to do is read.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ht=Body+Mounts

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ht=Body+Mounts

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ht=body+mounts

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ht=body+mounts

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ht=body+mounts

Like mentioned, you don't need to pull the body off the car...unless you want to If your fuel lines are shot now is a good time to lift the body enough to do the fuel lines and body mounts.
If body bushings are the only item on your list then weld a gizmo like pictured below. Keep the car on its wheels and lift with a floor jack. This gizmo slides between the frame and door sills (metal upsidedown "U" shape channel that runs under the doors and connects to your birdcage). This will lift one side of your car enough to pull the old body mounts out and slide the new ones in. Be careful sliding your hands in there b/c if it drops your gonna have stumps.
ALSO make sure all your body mount bolts are out on the side you are working on and are very loose on the other side. If doing Driver side make sure all 4 driver side body mount bolts are out and all 4 body mount bolts on passenger side are very loose but still a few threads in. The entire body has to tilt or you will crack the fiberglass body.
This is easy. ALSO make sure you know exactly the thickness of the body mounts you pull out so you can put the same thickness back in or your doorgaps will be off. I didn't do this and had to shim the body mounts a few weeks ago. Took me about 40 minutes each side. Not bad.
Be careful.
Here's my gizmo. It worked great. Its thick metal and no bending.








This is the "U" channel I was talking about when I pulled the body off the frame (before i wire brushed it and POR-15'd it), obviously the frame is not occupying the channel.


This diagram shows the "U" channel in the #2 & #3 body mount.

 

That's great 68 NJConv 454, I'm going to copy those links. I'm in the process of ordering the complete poly kit since all my rubbers have dried out. I thought of including the body mount kits with my order since I've noticed a few of those have dried out also. I don't want to lift the whole body off, therefore I think I'll fabricate the shop aid you've used. Is that 1/4" flat bar you've used? Looks like 2"x 4" and 2"x10"?

 

The rubber body mounts are there to reduce the road noise and vibration transmitted to the body from the frame.

Why the F would you want to go backwards and undo that?

 

Mike, I don't understand your statement, I'm trying to replace the body mount bushings with new ones since the car sat for 18 years, therefore they dried up and cracked.

Your post was just after mine therefore I assume your statement is directed towards me...........what am I trying to undo?

 

1968 cars came with aluminum body bushings....therefore poly is more absorbant than aluminum.
Also, rubber dries out and falls apart, poly does not.
I didn't feel like having to lift the body every 10 years to replace the rubber ones.
If rubber was the way to go with road vibrations then your entire suspension system would still be rubber. I understand you upgrade to poly for suspension stiffness/deflection and you don't need the stiffness in the body mounts but the vibration can't be that bad if people are converting their suspension with poly. Besides, there's no body bushings in the frame horns so your getting vibrations from there regardless.
In theory you might think there is a difference in vibration feel but I've never heard of one person complain about it after switching to poly.
Just like everything on the car, its personal preference.

 

Yea, I think the poly bushings are an improvement ovet the rubber mainly because of the longevity issue. They just do not age like the rubber ones do. There is just not enough vibration in the frame to worry about, not in any of the cars I have done.
The rubber will hold more moisture in the mounts than the urethane too, grease them up and put them and you will be good to go for many, many years

 

Good response to an antagonistic post.

To the original poster, someone asked about the replacement procedure in the General forum a few days ago. I provided detailed instructions there.

 

Thanks Batman, I believe it's this thread and I assume 75 is the same as 76?


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1855349

 

I understand the need for occasional replacement- once every 30 years or so. Your car came with rubber bushings (all Corvettes did, 1973 and up) which have an inherent damping rate. Going to a stiffer compound undoes this product improvement to a certain degree, with only the weak excuse of 'poly lasts longer' to justify it.

If longevity is your motivation, consider going back to the solid bushings from '72 MY and previous.

Not picking on you but I'm amazed how many people can't wait to jump on any aftermarket product, even if it's a step backwards from the factory stuff.

 

I love how people keep saying that rubber will last for 30 years. The body bushings on my 77 were shot in 1991.

 

The rubber bushings on my 74 coupe literally fell apart in my hands when I bought the car in the early 90's and started fixing her up. At that time I replaced with rubber (don't think poly ones were available). A few years later my pops and I rebuilt a 78/82 with poly. Didn't notice a difference in vibration b/w the two cars.
To each his own.
Thats whats great about this forum...you receive opinions/advice from all sides of the fence to help you make your decision...in the end its your car...you make the final call.

 

Since I'm the original owner of the car the is no doubt on the history, therefore I can honestly tell you that the rubber mount bushing were cracked way before she was stored in 89. I don't even think they lasted 15 years. Normal wear and tear, I would have had to replace them twice in 30 years. I'm trying to find a more permanent replacement and still keep the rubber format.

 

Fair comment- visually rubber bushing can look like crap in 15 years. From a functional point of view, they still do the job. Mine were still functionally good after 25 years, but looked horrible.

Replacing things strictly for visual reasons would means there's lots and lots of other hardware that would need frequent attention. I guess that's why some people like stainless exhaust as well as brake and fuel lines.

 

Mine weren't just cracked in '91 - they were visibly collapsed, with chunks missing. By the time I replaced them this year, they were horrible.