Out of boredom and the need to find out if everything is OK I pulled my trailing arms and axles apart. I found the drivers side splines twisted. When I checked the passengers side they were even worse. I checked on new axles or spindles part # 3872476 which are high nickel. $435 CDN each. Aftermarket heat treated $300CDN each. I have to replace them.
My son works at a company that makes massive axles for off road vehicles and I am looking at making my own. He can spline anything for me and I am hoping to make axles at least 50% larger with very heavy splines. I looked at Tom's but his good axles are over $600 american or $1000 plus CDN for 6 inches of steel. With my sons help maybe I can make a set way beyond anything out there. With $600 to play with I certainly can't loose.

 

If you two make a sweet combo....maybe you could make some on the
side for us *less fortunate souls" to buy from you !

 

You mean there is room for that much more material? :cool:

Ask your son if he want to sell a few of them :D:D

 

I would call up tom's and see where they get them from. They might be 1/2 price or so from the manufacturer. Mine don't have any problems at all. If you hadn't removed your tires you never would have known either.

 

What caused the axles to be twisted. Drags, sticky tires. Don't say just normal driving. Now you have me worried as I just broke the rear might my axles be twisted also?

 

Doesn't Norval put out about 1000 hp? :eek:
Also, didnt he say, "The more power I get, the slower I go" :)
Maybe we don't need to worry about twisting axles!! MJ

 

I broke a new Vansteel spindle on the right side this summer. I don't hookup that well so I thought it must be defective.

 

On a computer dyno my 8-71 blown 460 puts out 940HP and I run 12.50 wrinkle wall street slicks. I do have problems in any on the first 3 gears with lighting the tires up. I removed the axles strickly to check everything and found the splines no longer in a straight line. The axle was definitely twisting. My son has offered to make me a set that are at least 50% larger or the splined part would be 1.500 inches. It would require a bit of machining. It is very important to heat treat the finished product to 40-45 RC. Without this heat treating a 1 inch axle heat treated would be stronger. I work with alot of very smart metallurgists so if I go with a custom one it will be flame hardened, that is hard 45RC outside and soft giving core. I will start thinking about it with my son deciding if that is the way we will go or not.
If I go that route I will post pictures of the differences between production and homemade.

 

Norval,

What type of steel are you considering?

 

I too am interested in knowing what type steel your going to use. Is it the inner axle or the outer spindles that your replacing? If it's the inner axle, will you be staying with the 17 tooth spline? It looks like your metalurgist friends are recommending a case hardening of 40-45Rc is this correct? Also ask your son if he knows what pitch the spline is for us. I never thought of making my own, but something I might consider now. :)

 

Norval, great idea! Nothing makes me more nervous than those skinny outer spindles in the trailing arms. I think you should start a cottage industry so we can all have a set...

-Joe

 

ok, dumb question time....
why not put a solid axle under it? a Ford 9 inch with heavy duty parts might be more cost effective and more bulletproof? (assuming you can do your own labor/narrow the rear, etc)

 

Hi Norval..
I just completed rebuilding my trailing arms and I had to replace both
of my spindles. Both had twisted splines.

I also had a shock regarding the price. US$ to CDN$ conversion is not
a pretty sight.

I ended up putting in a couple of good used ones. Flanges had been machined true. Cost $ 100.00 each CDN.

In my search for spindles, this was the best deal for HD new. http://www.corvette-corral.com/Rear_...omponents.html

Barry

 

I just put together a model to see how it would fit, it is alot beefier. I will try to post a picture of it and a stock one today.
Frank75 I would use 4140 or 4340 or sps 245. Either of these steels have no problem heat treating to 45 RC. It would be flame hardened. It involves heating the outside with induction much like a powerful micro wave then quenching before the inside get heated. Only the outside is hard with a soft forgiving core
Mikeo I would use 17 teeth spline but the od would be 1.500 instead of the stock 1.175. They are set up for this splining and I can get inside and outside splines done easily if they are set for it. I could have something custom but it involves setup. I already have a setup for checking.
TictoCdok I have always thought of a 9 inch but what would happen to my battery boxes? Would I need to cut them out for a 4 link? I don't want to butcher the car. As for shortening or building the 4 link I have done it before and it would be no big deal. The battery boxes are my only concern.

Looking at the tests axle is certainly looks massive compared to stock and my son is bringing me bearings and races and seals this evening for more fitting. I still haven't decided if this is the way I will go. One off pieces bother me. If I every broke something I like to be able to easily replace it. I could make a few spares.
I will post a picture today if possible.

 

Hubby had to replace spindles on both side of our 78. Weren't even aware they were bad until a nephew told us and explained what and why he noticed it. Barings were welded to spindles due to lack of grease from previous owner not maintaining vette. Had to take one side to have pressed out with a 8 ton press, that didn't work. Machine shop had to cut it out. Anyway all is fixed. Definate experience when you have to change spindles.

 

Norval-

1.500 - 1.175 = .325 gain implies a .325 loss somewhere else...

Where?

Smaller rollers? Inner bearing race? Where are you going to get that .325?
Machine the spindle support? All of the above? What?

Don't keep us envious souls in the dark....

 

I took pictures this morning so after I once again figure out how to downsize and post to my web I can post them here.
I was thinking of machining out the inside of the carrier where the shocks ride on. It is already stepped for the seals so after my son brings me the races I can see if it would be feasable to open up the carrier.
I still haven't decided if I am going this route. The bearing are bigger.

 

Norval:
What type of yokes and U-joints are you using? Is your rear end "bulletproof"? I would have thought that your U-joints or rear end would have given out before twisting your half shafts.

 

My yokes are stock. I did add hardened 01 tool steel buttons myself. As for the half shafts and u joints they are stock. I did alot of work when I installed the 4.11 gears, I polished the carrier and pressed a ring around it to reinforce it. Don't ask me about the ring. I did it 13 years ago and can't remember how I did it. At the time I thought I could re-enforce it alittle. I get these crazy ideas sometimes.
I will not run slicks again. It cost me too many broken parts 2 years ago. I will stick to my 305 BFG enduro radias for now. Can't promise that 17 or 18 rims are not in the future.
I am trying to post pictures.

 

Yup. Sounds like you might have a ton of customers. I may need to set up a "frequent buyer" program :)