Installing Summit performance package on base Chevy crate engine?



I'd like to boost the hp figure of my basic GM Goodwrench engine in my '76. I've thought about a new crate engine but just can't afford one, so I'm looking into upgrading my engine. I'm a complete noob with engine mods.
I like the idea of buying a performance package from someone like Summit, who've assembled all the bits for me. Their SUM-BB2 package looks pretty comprehensive:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...128&N=700+150+
...but I've got some questions. Can you help?
My Goodwrench engine is a 4-bolt main block. I assume it's got a basic crank, rod set and pistons. Should I do anything to the rotating assembly before installing the Summit package to lighten, balance or strengthen it? Would I gain noticeable performance or reliability by changing pistons or rods or whatever?
What hp should I expect to get with the basic Goodwrench pistons and that Summit package?
What fuel would I need to run to prevent detonation? (I don't know what comp ratio I'd get with my existing pistons and 64cc chambers.)
Which carb would be best for my manual '76? The package contains a vac.sec 800cfm carb. Is that going to be right? (800cfm seems like a lot for a 350 engine to my noob eyes.)
Will the roller lifters and rockers fit in my engine with no mods? My engine was made in Mexico no more than a decade ago.
Do you think that Edelbrock Vortec Performer RPM Air Gap manifold will fit beneath my stock hood if I get a drop-base air cleaner?
Thanks in advance for any advice/experience/help anybody can provide before I venture into the unknown. (Are there any good books on this?
)
GW Uni 350 w/ 64cc heads & 5.8cc x 0.028" gaskets won't quite make 9.5:1 scr. I dunno what cam's in that kit but it might be too big for 9-9.5:1. Whatever fuels a current gas Vauxhaul will work. Before you order this kinda stuff, You need to VERIFY what sort of lifter bosses in your block ... pull the intake off and take a look ... that'll tell the tale. If you KNOW what to look for ... you can pull a pushrod & peek thru there at lifter boss ... on a roller block the top of lifter boss is flat-milled ... but it's rough on non-roller block. I dunno, but suspect you'd have hood clearance issues w/ any decent size filter & Vortec RPM Air Gap.


If your goodwrench engine is late model, it will be machined for OE Roller assemblies. You wont be using those link bar lifters or those pushrods. This is a good thing, the parts will be less expensive and easier to set up. If its a Late model Block you need to research Late model Roller assembly parts and setup.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
It will get you a 9.0-1 compression ratio with that engine.
I believe the total cost of their upgrades were less-than $2000.


If your goodwrench engine is late model, it will be machined for OE Roller assemblies. You wont be using those link bar lifters or those pushrods. This is a good thing, the parts will be less expensive and easier to set up. If its a Late model Block you need to research Late model Roller assembly parts and setup.
How do I know whether it's a 'late model' engine? Is it down to the casting number, and can I compare my block's # with a list somewhere?


I believe the total cost of their upgrades were less-than $2000.

I need a more radical jump in power, I think.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
It will get you a 9.0-1 compression ratio with that engine.
Won't a low compression ratio limit the potential for hp?
I'm really shooting for something dramatic: 400hp+
Otherwise there's not much point for me in going through the hassle. If I'm going to strip down and rebuild the engine myself then I want to get to the stage where in 6 months' time I'm not thinking "...Wish I had more power."
Really want to do it right first time, even if I have to learn lots on the way.

I'm guessing if you could squeeze what ya got harder/tighter (higher compression ), you'd be happier with what ya got.
Last edited by Glensgages; Nov 14, 2007 at 04:17 PM.
have flat tappit cams 76cc heads the 330hp,HO has a flat tappit
with 64cc vortec heads, you have to have the 355HP ZZ4
before they show a hydraulic roller cam.
I looked up the EDL-2099 that comes in the summit kit in my edelbrock catalog.
The package is 435 HP rated the cam is a retro fit (pre-87) hydraulic roller
cam. the cam is a performer RPM #EDL-2201.
the camshaft specs are.
.050 duration 234/238
advertised duration 296/300
lift 539/548
LSA 112
If you have a 350 this is way to much cam.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Nov 14, 2007 at 07:32 PM.
Anyway you slice it, it is possible to get 400HP and 400TQ. BUT thats really pushing the potential for a non racing 350 Block to its Limits. Depends on how you drove it But Your Crankshaft, Rods & pistons would be vulnerable to Destruction, I dont think a good engine builder would push for 400HP with your shortblock as it is.
Maybe 350HP and good low end torque would be more reliable and less expensive too.
The GMPP zz4 engines may even use the same Block as you already have? But they Bullitproof the build with forged Crank, Steel Rods, Alum Pistons and Mild roller assemblies Thats how they get away with Hi-performance power with a Good WARRANTY.
Maybe Someone will chime in with some definite info about what you have for a Block. It all starts There.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ild/index.html


http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ild/index.html
I priced up the same kit as they used (TPS heads, XE 268H cam, Holley 750 carb etc.) and it comes to more than the Summit package, but not by much. At least I know it'd fit my engine. The dollar will continue to weaken against the GBP so by the time I'm ready to purchase it'll be even cheaper.
Thanks to everybody for the comments/suggestions. I really appreciate your contributions.















