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If you cut and extend the stock caliper bracket you can run 13 or 14 inch rotors with the stock caliper.
I went 14 inch while I was at it and tried the small 7 inch hats and didn't like the look so I made custom 10 inch hats so I had more aluminum and less steel showing.
It is a simple mater to cut a stock caliper braket, add a piece and make it work with 13 inch rotors.
14 inch rotor, 10 inch hat
If you cut and extend the stock caliper bracket you can run 13 or 14 inch rotors with the stock caliper.
I went 14 inch while I was at it and tried the small 7 inch hats and didn't like the look so I made custom 10 inch hats so I had more aluminum and less steel showing.
It is a simple mater to cut a stock caliper braket, add a piece and make it work with 13 inch rotors.
14 inch rotor, 10 inch hat
Yep, that would work too! These use the stock offset ( they are the same hats as used in the stock, 11.75" setup. So a little bracket change is all that is needed.
No I won't modify stock brackets, I'm not a certified welder, and that weld is in tension
Oh and I have had hat envy since you made them, nice.
But do you know what hats like that would go for on the open market???
But do you know what hats like that would go for on the open market???
I don't know if you can buy a 10 inch hat. I made a 7 inch then decided why not go for 10 so I picked up a couple of pieces of 10 inch stock and made them. The number of bolts used or the diameter is nothing that you can buy. I just thought the large hat would mean less brake showing. Strickly for looks and nothing else.
This is a stock braket beside one that has 1 inch added to it. If you cut the stock braket you can add a 1 inch strip, weld, grind and once repainted you can't tell it from stock.
If you want me to pull the picture because of it's size I will gladly.
If I wasn't handy and couldn't make my own parts I would buy a front and back kit from you. The price and quality of parts is great.
A stock bracket and the inch inch bigger one.
If you cut and extend the stock caliper bracket you can run 13 or 14 inch rotors with the stock caliper.
I went 14 inch while I was at it and tried the small 7 inch hats and didn't like the look so I made custom 10 inch hats so I had more aluminum and less steel showing.
It is a simple mater to cut a stock caliper braket, add a piece and make it work with 13 inch rotors.
14 inch rotor, 10 inch hat
How well do these work with stock caliper. I know that the increase in rotor diameter will theoretically give a 'leverage' advantage but with the stock caliper I guess the area swept by the pads will still be the same (do aftermarket calipers have a larger swept area?). I am looking for a simple conversion like this as I have concerns about the long term availability of replacement parts and pads for some of the aftermarket brake systems. I have recently upgraded to 18" wheels so I guess 13" rotors will be OK. My L36 is due a significant power upgrade early next year and the stock non power brakes even with Hawk HP plus pads do make me 'sweat' a little, and that not just the physical excertion its 'will the thing stop in time'.
I run hydroboost. I never worry about my brakes stopping me. Nothing has the power of hydroboost. Yes my stock calipers work great but they are heavy. I also run organic pads so I don't chew the rotors.
The combination of larger rotors and hydroboost really make my car stop on a dime.
I started with manual brakes 20 plus years ago and hated them, I too worried about stopping and was embarrassed when I let others test drive the car and my son suggested trying a hydroboost unit from a dual truck like he drove. I bought on at the wreckers for $20 in the mid 90's and much to my suprised it was almost a bolt in deal. Seemed everything fit with minor modifications and the hydroboost for the corvettes was born. I had a touch time selling the idea to you guys but once a company forum right here on this forum more and more got it and know it is well know as a great addition.
18 inch wheels do not look right with the small 11.75 rotor. Go bigger. You can use the stock calipers without a problem but again they are heavy and those light weight aluminum ones look great and weight very little.
The first thing I would recommend with any braking system is hydroboost. You can buy the kit or a used unit for $50 bucks and do it yourself. You can even make the lines with russel fittings and stainless line.
How well do these work with stock caliper. I know that the increase in rotor diameter will theoretically give a 'leverage' advantage but with the stock caliper I guess the area swept by the pads will still be the same (do aftermarket calipers have a larger swept area?). I am looking for a simple conversion like this as I have concerns about the long term availability of replacement parts and pads for some of the aftermarket brake systems. I have recently upgraded to 18" wheels so I guess 13" rotors will be OK. My L36 is due a significant power upgrade early next year and the stock non power brakes even with Hawk HP plus pads do make me 'sweat' a little, and that not just the physical excertion its 'will the thing stop in time'.
Well the numbers say there will be a gain of 12.82% in brake torque, all else being equal. This is the torque generated at each front wheel available to stop the wheel from turning.
Actual stopping G-forces depend more on tires and pads than anything else though.
Decent brakes with Hoosiers will stop the car 1000 times better than great brakes on Radial T/A's.
Does anybody do a front and rear kit from a C5/6? If you can get brackets and the Z51 set up you would have a 13.4" front and a 13" rear all with some nice PBR aluminum calipers that get used on damn near everything so parts availability won't be an issue.
Couple these rotors with the Daytona caliper kit and you will have all the brake you will ever need at an unbelieveable price.
Pricing is $590 for a rotor kit ( rotors, hats and safety wire drilled bolts )
Replacement slotted rotors are $185 each.
I do not, will not, sell drilled rotors.
No they don't work with the stock caliper!
OK, Kieth. As you know, I have the Laguna front calipers. What do I need to make this work, I'm thinking rotors, hats, and a brackets. What will be my weight savings over stock rotors and hats? You did this to me last time, introduce something I gotta have just before Christmas.
Bee Jay
Sorry Bee Jay!
I'll try not to do it again....ok maybe not.
If you already have one of my kits, I will swap brackets with you, just shipping, it's a free swap.
Or you can buy the bare brackets if you don't want to give up yours.
$60 in the store Bare Brackets
Once you have the brackets all you need is the rotor kit. The kit includes the hats rotors and bolts.
Weight savings!? These are only 1/2 lb heaver than the stock rotors (18.5 lb) I thought that was pretty good!
So, for about $600, I can upgrade to 13" aluminum hat rotors and lose about 20lbs of unsprung rotating mass. Or I can buy a lighter high rise hood. Decisions, decisions. I'll prolly wait till after Christmas and do both. Keep me in mind and let me know if you have a fire sale.
Sorry Bee Jay!
I'll try not to do it again....ok maybe not.
If you already have one of my kits, I will swap brackets with you, just shipping, it's a free swap.
Or you can buy the bare brackets if you don't want to give up yours.
$60 in the store Bare Brackets
Once you have the brackets all you need is the rotor kit. The kit includes the hats rotors and bolts.
Weight savings!? These are only 1/2 lb heaver than the stock rotors (18.5 lb) I thought that was pretty good!
I just re-read your answer. I thought you said 1/2 the weight of stock rotors, but what you said was 1/2 lb heavier. So, with aluminum hats, there is no weight savings? Dang.
Bee Jay
I run hydroboost. I never worry about my brakes stopping me. Nothing has the power of hydroboost. Yes my stock calipers work great but they are heavy. I also run organic pads so I don't chew the rotors.
The combination of larger rotors and hydroboost really make my car stop on a dime.
I started with manual brakes 20 plus years ago and hated them, I too worried about stopping and was embarrassed when I let others test drive the car and my son suggested trying a hydroboost unit from a dual truck like he drove. I bought on at the wreckers for $20 in the mid 90's and much to my suprised it was almost a bolt in deal. Seemed everything fit with minor modifications and the hydroboost for the corvettes was born. I had a touch time selling the idea to you guys but once a company forum right here on this forum more and more got it and know it is well know as a great addition.
18 inch wheels do not look right with the small 11.75 rotor. Go bigger. You can use the stock calipers without a problem but again they are heavy and those light weight aluminum ones look great and weight very little.
The first thing I would recommend with any braking system is hydroboost. You can buy the kit or a used unit for $50 bucks and do it yourself. You can even make the lines with russel fittings and stainless line.
I don't particularly like the effort of non-power brakes and a brake booster will only reduce the effort of braking (and the sweat I Guess). There is something of the paranoic about me here. If you have normal vacumn power brakes (and assuming you don't have a radical cam/low vacumn) if you lose the engine at speed you will get one or two brake applications before 'really heavy pedal time'. With the hydro boost as it is engine driven I presume you get nothing with an engine stoppage at speed?
I just re-read your answer. I thought you said 1/2 the weight of stock rotors, but what you said was 1/2 lb heavier. So, with aluminum hats, there is no weight savings? Dang.
Bee Jay
Yea, there's a ot of steel in them.
Still, think of how heavy they'd be if they had steel hats...