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Lizard Skin Chemists...report please

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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 04:05 PM
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Default Lizard Skin Chemists...report please

After days of scraping 39 year old glue and jute, I'm about ready to proceed with the insullation process and the vintage air system on my '69. The interior is completely bare, and my plan is to lay down a coat of epoxy primer, then the concoction. I've got the microballons ready to mix with the elastometric roofing paint. From my readings here on the forum, there are evidently two different Lizard Skin types, one for sound, and one for heat. My question is: which type does the microballons and paint serve? Will I need additional sound or heat barrier on top? If heat, I'll go with Reflectix. If sound, I'll put a layer of accoustic pad down. Thanks for any experience and advice.

Jimbo
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 07:06 PM
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Any non lurkers?
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 07:23 PM
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I sure wouldnt put any roofing paint on my car.
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 08:10 PM
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I have never heard of Lizard Skin. I guess I need to do a little google search. Sounds interesting anyway. Have you tried the audio section of Corvette Forum. Someone in there may have tried it.
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 08:26 PM
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Default Home-made Lizardskin link

Here is the link to the home-made Lizardskin post.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=home+made
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 10:16 PM
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Again, I wouldnt put that crap on my car, but y'all be carefull with those micro spheres. They are nasty floating in the air. Wear a mask.
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 11:22 PM
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Well I won't go that route. All the microballoons are is a thickening
agent. So all you really have is thickened roof coating. Cool seal is
what is rolled on mobile home metal roofs to seal them and it does
help somewhat for sound. So it will help some for sound but I doubt
much for heat (as around the cat).

Chuck

Last edited by Chucks82; Nov 24, 2007 at 11:24 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Chucks82
All the microballoons are is a thickening agent.
Not really. They should function in the same manner as Reflectix-type insulation - the air gaps provided by the microspheres (even if tiny individually) add up to an insulation layer.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Not really. They should function in the same manner as Reflectix-type insulation - the air gaps provided by the microspheres (even if tiny individually) add up to an insulation layer.
Yep I do a lot of composite work and know what they are. It would take
a lot more to do any real good than what is shown in the pictures.
Sound deadening would be the best value for this stuff and there are
better solutions out there with proven results.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 09:52 AM
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Whelp, I've got to cover the bare fiberglass with something, so I'm gonna go with the home brewed Lizard Skin over the epoxy primer, as an undercoating, then apply sound insulation. With sidepipes, I figure noise will be the bigger factor in the cockpit, rather than heat, when I have the windows up. Now, what brand of sound insulation to purchase.....???????????

Jimbo
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by hawgn68
Whelp, I've got to cover the bare fiberglass with something,
Jimbo
The factory never did.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 10:20 PM
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Wombvette, point taken. However, I don't think the chevy builders in '69 were as interested in hearing XM radio or CD's as I am. I also don't plan on using the same materiels and techniques as they did 40 years ago.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 10:58 PM
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since the Lizard skin will take care of the heat, use jute backing for sound control. This is not designed to help panel vibrations like dynamat, this will cut the road noise out. You can buy jute backing at carpet stores or Home Depot for cheap. If your car leaks though you can use closed cell foam. Jute will absorb water like a sponge. The closed cell foam works great and isn't terribly expensive. The audio companies have it typically. I have not gotten my hands on it or looked into it, but I am betting you can get the same closed cell foam at a packing and mailing place. The thicker the better for sound control.

I've gotten fed up over the years with the peel and stick stuff. It works but it's not fun to put on and I got better results with jute backing.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 12:26 PM
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Just for the non believers............I've run my car two summers with it and I can attest that it does an excellent job of insulating the cabin from the engine heat. It's very thin (around .050) so it doesn't take up a bunch of room and unlike the stick on/glue it on/ sheets of stuff, it covers every crack and crevice that it's sprayed on. I can't say how the home made stuff works but the factory original stuff works good.
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by wombvette
The factory never did.
The factory also did a horrible job of rust-proofing the frame and birdcage, and the panel fits were always a bit wonky. Doesn't mean that such problems shouldn't be corrected.
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