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I'm rebuilding the differential as part of a body off project. I've set up the pattern using slip fit bearings but when it came to installing the pinion "for real", complete with the crush sleeve, I can't collapse the sleeve by torquing the pinion nut. I believe that GTR 1999 presses his assemblies close to the finished height and then draws them down to spec. I don't have a press and was wondering if anyone has a "trick" or should I take the diff to someone who has a press to get the pinion installed?
I'm rebuilding the differential as part of a body off project. I've set up the pattern using slip fit bearings but when it came to installing the pinion "for real", complete with the crush sleeve, I can't collapse the sleeve by torquing the pinion nut. I believe that GTR 1999 presses his assemblies close to the finished height and then draws them down to spec. I don't have a press and was wondering if anyone has a "trick" or should I take the diff to someone who has a press to get the pinion installed?
Thanks for the anticipated info.
When I did mine, I used the press to start the crush and then used a 24" breaker bar to start to torque it down.
I just use long enough breaker bars or pipe to crush the sleeve. The pinion nut and treads can take it.
If you crush the sleeve with a press it can reduce the axial clamp load on the bearing cup to allow the cone to turn on the pinion shaft. Its press fit is much less than the head end bearing which relies strictly on its press for anti-rotation.
Did you recheck the pattern after switching to the new bearing? Sometimes there is a slight difference and a shim change may be required.
I do start mine in a press but I do it on an old pinion with old races so the compression is equal on the sleeve. The aftermarket sleeve are not as hard to compress as the GM ones( now discontinued) I have an Ingersol_Rand 1/2 torque wrench and it will not compress the sleeve unless I start it. A long breaker bar and cheater may start it. Be careful once you get it going it will be much easier and you don't want to over crush it.
A solid sleeve can be purchased or made but you're going to need a surfaces grinder to dial it in.
You can mount the yoke in a bench vise and then use a long breaker bar to start compress it. I use one that is about 1.20 m long. Take very small steps at a time, because once it compresses it goes real fast...