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I'm replacing all calipers and pads and need help on the rotors. After reading some questions here I see now why the rotors just don't come off, they are riveted. The only thing wrong with them is a lot of rust. There are no grooves at all. Could I just clean them up ?
It's a 1977 L82 4-speed with 21,000 original miles and has been sitting in the garage since around 1987.
Although they appear to be fine except for surface rust from sitting they still should be checked for run out. My originals looked great also except for surface rust, however when I had them checked they were way out of spec. To remove the rotors from the hub the rivets need to be drilled out. If your replacing the calipers and pads why not just replace them and do it right. I would also replace the brake line hoses that go to the calipers as well. Be sure to drain the system completely and refill with new Dot 3 brake fluid. I like to gravity bleed the system to replace all the fluid until new fluid comes our of each bleeder. This method may take a little longer to do, but it works like a charm for me and I have never had a problem with a soft peddle and the car stops on a dime.
Those are low miles. Chances are they are okay. As above, have them checked for runout. If they are within spec, don't touch the rotors yet. Just clean them up, install new pads, maybe new calipers that have stainless steel sleeves, and some new rubber lines.
I'm trying to keep as original as possible. Everything is still original except tires and battery.
If I drill out the rivets to have rotors checked out will this do anything to value or take off points if I show it ?
I'm trying to keep as original as possible. Everything is still original except tires and battery.
If I drill out the rivets to have rotors checked out will this do anything to value or take off points if I show it ?
You're misunderstanding. Any good brake and suspension shop can check the runout with the rotors still on the car. ONLY drill them off IF you have excessive runout and even then, have then turn the stock rotors and reinstall them. Not sure about value.
Thanks for all info. I will check them first. If no turning is necessary what in anyone's opinon would be the best way to clean them up from the surface rust ?
Thanks for all info. I will check them first. If no turning is necessary what in anyone's opinon would be the best way to clean them up from the surface rust ?
I would say a high grit sand paper should work fine. They will eventually rust over again where the pads don't make contact. Another fun option is to paint the hats of the rotors so they look nicer.
One last thing to note,, if you do turn the rotor, smark them as to the side and the stud hole, so they can be reinstalled exactly where they were, before removal. Exactly, to the stud hole, all rotors.
One last thing to note,, if you do turn the rotor, smark them as to the side and the stud hole, so they can be reinstalled exactly where they were, before removal. Exactly, to the stud hole, all rotors.
Or just take it to a shop with an on-car lathe. Even if the rotors are marked for reinstallation, if the the rotor hat or hub aren't exactly true, the machining operation can still introduce runout.
Or just take it to a shop with an on-car lathe. Even if the rotors are marked for reinstallation, if the the rotor hat or hub aren't exactly true, the machining operation can still introduce runout.
What kind of chain shops have the on car machines? I called around some, the Chevy dealer has them, but wants a boatload of money to turn 4 rotors.
If you don't have run out, changing them will garuntee you will. I would leave them on if possible.
Checking rotor runout on the car is easier said then done.Look at the pad pins on each of the old calipers and see if where the pad rode was worn from the pad going back and forth.With your low milage and if you have no intentions of addressing the bearings I would clean up the rotors and install the calipers.Drive the car and if you find the pedal is getting soft after driving then go back and address the runout issue.If the pedal doesnt go soft then you should be good.
The rear taper roller bearings in the Corvette are too wobbly when its off the ground even with only a couple thousands end play.For this machine to work you would have to take all the end play out of the spindle bearings.
The rear taper roller bearings in the Corvette are too wobbly when its off the ground even with only a couple thousands end play.For this machine to work you would have to take all the end play out of the spindle bearings.
The rear taper roller bearings in the Corvette are too wobbly when its off the ground even with only a couple thousands end play.For this machine to work you would have to take all the end play out of the spindle bearings.
Yea, doesn't the machine bolt hard to the disk? basicly like the original factory proceedure? no way it's gonna rely on the bearings for trueness?
Well, I'll know tommorow,, the Car is at the dealer now, front bearings (mine- Timkins) and turn 4 rotors on the car, with the run out to be measured and recorded, all 4
Last edited by RunningMan373; Nov 29, 2007 at 11:51 PM.
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