Paint stripping
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
The L88 wasn't a ram air style hood, it uses cowl induction just like your 76's hood, so don't cut it. To really take advantage of the functionality of it, you'll need to get an L88 air cleaner, and a cold air box to attach to your L88 hood.
Here's a good thread with pictures.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...light=l88+hood
Also good information from one of our forum members:
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/mdsmith/l88.htm
As far as paint stripping, I would use the Capt'n Lees, especially for just the hood. I started with the razor blade and am moving onto the chemical stripping. I'm assuming you meant that you bought the hood from someone used, are going to strip it and prime it right?
Here's a good thread with pictures.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...light=l88+hood
Also good information from one of our forum members:
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/mdsmith/l88.htm
As far as paint stripping, I would use the Capt'n Lees, especially for just the hood. I started with the razor blade and am moving onto the chemical stripping. I'm assuming you meant that you bought the hood from someone used, are going to strip it and prime it right?
Yeah, it's used. Would the local autozone or other same type shop have captain lees, or do I need to order it? I'm in no rush, or anything, just can't wait to see what she'll look like, despite the ghetto mismatch color.
As for the functionality, there are no holes cut in the back, either. Why did they bother with making what looks like an inverted hood scoop, if it's not to even pull in extra air to cool the motor?
As for air filter, mine is a closed filament, with a cold air induction system going to the front above the radiator. Wouldn't that be better than going with the induction from the rear?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
Yeah, it's used. Would the local autozone or other same type shop have captain lees, or do I need to order it? I'm in no rush, or anything, just can't wait to see what she'll look like, despite the ghetto mismatch color.
As for the functionality, there are no holes cut in the back, either. Why did they bother with making what looks like an inverted hood scoop, if it's not to even pull in extra air to cool the motor?
As for air filter, mine is a closed filament, with a cold air induction system going to the front above the radiator. Wouldn't that be better than going with the induction from the rear?
As for the functionality, there are no holes cut in the back, either. Why did they bother with making what looks like an inverted hood scoop, if it's not to even pull in extra air to cool the motor?
As for air filter, mine is a closed filament, with a cold air induction system going to the front above the radiator. Wouldn't that be better than going with the induction from the rear?
As for Captain Lees, I've never seen it in Autozone or Advanced Auto. You can order a quart for $15 bucks, which should be plenty for your hood.
Last edited by LeMans Pete; Jul 1, 2008 at 02:11 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
I'd probably say 95% of people use the L88 hood for clearance only. There won't be any "holes" in the hood, you need to buy the cold air box for it to have any functionality. Very few actually use it for the functionality of the cold air box. Its not for cooling the motor, its so you get a cooler, more dense O2 charge to your engine. I can't really say which induction system is better, but if you're just using the hood for style/clearance, I don't see the point in changing the entire induction system, waste of money.
As for Captain Lees, I've never seen it in Autozone or Advanced Auto. You can order a quart for $15 bucks, which should be plenty for your hood.
As for Captain Lees, I've never seen it in Autozone or Advanced Auto. You can order a quart for $15 bucks, which should be plenty for your hood.
Yeah, I had mostly wanted it for the looks, but partly for what I thought would be a better functioning hood scoop.
But mostly, it was the looks. And the clearance, as I'm planning a vortec head swap, which means aftermarket intake.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City Utah
You know, the whole deal with soda blasting ruining paint jobs is a major bummer! I've seen three vettes right after they've been soda blasted and they look almost perfect - very smooth, no damage to anything, just gorgeous inside and out. I really wish that paint wasn't an issue with it, cause I'd use it in a heartbeat. With everything I'm doing myself, it would be nice to farm this part out. Instead, I'm planning on using the Cap't Lees. 
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 741
Likes: 1
From: Woodstock GA
I have used a combination of razor blades, and stripper (Citristrip) in the touger areas...if I had it to do over, I wouldn't bother with the stripper at all. I didn't have much trouble with gouging (my 9 year old was helping me, and he didn't get may gouges either). I think some cars are just easier that others, depending on how they were done in the past. I'm going to block it out in Spray Poly anyway, so any minor gouges will be filled in the process.
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
This is a recurring theme on the forum, and their are lots of different opinions. I have read about far too many horror stories from having a car media blasted to ever consider doing that to a Vette. I am convinced that an experienced guy with the razor blade can strip a car in far less time than it takes us guys with chemical stripper to do the job. I am not that guy. I have also read of more than one occurence of the inexperienced razor handler creating far more bodywork than ever should have been necessary. Most problems occurring from using chemical stripper are because of laziness, and failure to properly clean the surface after stripping. My recomendation is to turn your car over to an experienced blade man, or chemically strip it yourself. Stay away from media blasting of fiberglass.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
The blasting of a fiberglass body, and the results will depend almost entirely on WHO is doing the blasting.
If you get someone that has a touch for it,(experiance) the results can be outstanding! The same tool, used with the same media, in a rookies hands can ruin you body. Or at the very least, leave you with more body work than necessary.
If you get someone that has a touch for it,(experiance) the results can be outstanding! The same tool, used with the same media, in a rookies hands can ruin you body. Or at the very least, leave you with more body work than necessary.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
Here's my thing, though. Dude who had the car before my dad got it, and sold it to me, liked Mako.
A lot.
So much so, that he got, near as I can tell, about 7-8 paint jobs, all on top of each other. There is, quite literally, about 100 pounds of paint on this car. There is a scratch on the nose, where my dad pulled too close to his truck, and went under, that goes all the way to the fiber glass, and let me tell you, the paint is darn near a 1/4 inch think. I would say that pretty much rules out the razer blade, for me. And probably chem stripping, too, unless I want to spend a fortune on it.
A lot.
So much so, that he got, near as I can tell, about 7-8 paint jobs, all on top of each other. There is, quite literally, about 100 pounds of paint on this car. There is a scratch on the nose, where my dad pulled too close to his truck, and went under, that goes all the way to the fiber glass, and let me tell you, the paint is darn near a 1/4 inch think. I would say that pretty much rules out the razer blade, for me. And probably chem stripping, too, unless I want to spend a fortune on it.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
This is a recurring theme on the forum, and their are lots of different opinions. I have read about far too many horror stories from having a car media blasted to ever consider doing that to a Vette. I am convinced that an experienced guy with the razor blade can strip a car in far less time than it takes us guys with chemical stripper to do the job. I am not that guy. I have also read of more than one occurence of the inexperienced razor handler creating far more bodywork than ever should have been necessary. Most problems occurring from using chemical stripper are because of laziness, and failure to properly clean the surface after stripping. My recomendation is to turn your car over to an experienced blade man, or chemically strip it yourself. Stay away from media blasting of fiberglass.
The blasting of a fiberglass body, and the results will depend almost entirely on WHO is doing the blasting.
If you get someone that has a touch for it,(experiance) the results can be outstanding! The same tool, used with the same media, in a rookies hands can ruin you body. Or at the very least, leave you with more body work than necessary.
If you get someone that has a touch for it,(experiance) the results can be outstanding! The same tool, used with the same media, in a rookies hands can ruin you body. Or at the very least, leave you with more body work than necessary.
Worse part is you don't find out until the job is done if the guy was an expert or a dunce to begin with!
One of these day's I need to do my car somehow........if I get the courage! Can't afford to have a shop do the whole thing.
Thanks
Hey Kevin, I bet that paint would come off with a razor quicker than you might think if it's so thick. Good luck with it.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
Stripped my entire vette in a day with razor blades (well OK not including the rear end and lower front end) Used single edged with a holder...came off like peeling an apple, minor gouging by taking your time, holding at a low angle and correct pressure.
What you see in the pix was done in about 4 hrs!! This WAS NOT the original paint however. Original paint doesnt come off as easily, my experience.
What you see in the pix was done in about 4 hrs!! This WAS NOT the original paint however. Original paint doesnt come off as easily, my experience.