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If your talking about the ketal part thats attached to the body its not to bad. You need to drill out the rivets for the existing mount, clean the area and fix any cracks and then reattach the new mount useing SS bolts, nuts and washers. It is also a good idea to fill the mount with Urethane foam to keep water out and seal the thing up forever.
You can use poprivets. Try to find the large head it's is about the size of a dime. 3/16 dia. Then find a 3/16 fender washer and put that on the fiberglass side.
did you use the poprivet gun or the body rivets they sell along with the setting tool a would like to use the tool with the bucking bar it does not sound to easy.
this is pretty good if the pics show [url]http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=872065[/url or http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1050960&highlight=body+ mount&forum_id=3&arch=1
did you use the poprivet gun or the body rivets they sell along with the setting tool a would like to use the tool with the bucking bar it does not sound to easy.
IMO, you want NCRS or something that WORKS.....use the stainless bolts with fender washer against the glass inside, and a good kep nut....
it works and is fairly easy to do if you are alone, not trying to get a rivit gun in position and/or balance all that crap....
As Sixfooter and Batman mentioned, I would fill up the inside of the new metal body mount with some type of conforming substance before riveting or bolting it in. The fiberglass **** that the metal support fits over can get brittle and worn with age. And putting all the body forces on a few rivets or small bolts can be scary.
I used vette bonding adhesive in the metal support to get a firm seat between the fiberglass and the support.
Also, you can get shorter riveting attachments for you air impact gun that will fit in most places. Use reduced air pressure on the gun. There are some old posts outlining the procedure.
I only bolted mine on the two flanges visible in that picture. The other two were too hard to reach, and the poly adhesive holds the reinforcement in place.
are these rubber or poly bushings i have poly i though the thicker one goes on top they say that when useing poly the body sits about 5/16 higher up i asume the thicker one up top.the poly bushing did not come with instructions.
I put the thicker one on top too, that was closer to the original height of the old mount(and that was collapsed some too). some kind of instructions with those kits would have been nice though. SS machine screws are the way to go instead of rivets unless you're a die hard NCRS guy.
I put the thicker one on top too, that was closer to the original height of the old mount(and that was collapsed some too). some kind of instructions with those kits would have been nice though. SS machine screws are the way to go instead of rivets unless you're a die hard NCRS guy.
I had the same issue, but I decided that I liked having the wider disc on top. I found some washers with an outside diameter the same size as the disc, then stacked them up to fill in the gap between the mount and the reinforcement.
I only did the #4 mounts because they were in pretty bad shape, and when I actually got into them it was even scarier how bad the frame mounts were. From what I could tell though they go in the same orientation, only the wider disk is between the frame and body, and the tapered one is between the bolt head and body. I thought the #1's were like the #4's because the bolt comes from underneath, but don't take my word on that. I can't picture them off the top of my head. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1385300
I did check out the rest of the mounts and they are in pretty good shape still with minimal surface rust, so I left them for now. I didn't want to get into a body off resto just yet. too much down time over the summer for that.