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Rear Suspension- Question?

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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 11:18 AM
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Default Rear Suspension- Question?

1980 L48 Auto (2004R)

I need to replace my strut rod bushings. The previous owner or someone put the camber adjust bolts in the wrong way. In order to slide them out I have to remove the rear spring.

Should I remove the rear spring to get them off or should I cut them and buy a new set?

Need opinions. I am not sure how technical taking the spring off and putting it back on correctly is?

Thanks for any input

Darrel1
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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Take the spring off and do it right. Chances are if he did that wrong, something else is wrong too. Unless your going to replace the rods there is no sense in destroying them.

Taking the spring off is not a big deal, put it up on stands (safety first) use a clamp on the end of the spring inboard of the bolt and a floor jack to raise it off the end bolt. Remove the bolt and then do the other end. The clamp or vice grips is to keep the floor jack from slipping.
Once thats done there are 4 bolts that hold the spring to the differential.

Last edited by SIXFOOTER; Dec 14, 2007 at 11:23 AM.
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
Take the spring off and do it right. Chances are if he did that wrong, something else is wrong too. Unless your going to replace the rods there is no sense in destroying them
That is what I was thinking- but I just want to make sure there is no trick to re-installing the spring - just unbolt and bolt back up?

Thanks
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Darrel1
That is what I was thinking- but I just want to make sure there is no trick to re-installing the spring - just unbolt and bolt back up?

Thanks
When you reinstall the spring, put the 4 center bolts in finger tight, plus a tiny bit, so the spring can move, then install the end bolts, put the car on the ground to have the spring take up the load and settle, then torque the spring bolts to 65ft/lbs while on the GROUND/Tires. keeps from shearing a spring bolt. also: once the car is on the ground, the spring bolts will be losser, tighten them up a bit, enough to hold the spring but still let in move. push the car back and forth on the ground to let the rear tires straighten out well, then torque up to specs. 65 ft/lbs from mem, but best to check the spec yourself.

Last edited by RunningMan373; Dec 14, 2007 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by RunningMan373
When you reinstall the spring, put the 4 center bolts in finger tight, plus a tiny bit, so the spring can move, then install the end bolts, put the car on the ground to have the spring take up the load and settle, then torque the spring bolts to 65ft/lbs while on the GROUND/Tires. keeps from shearing a spring bolt. also: once the car is on the ground, the spring bolts will be losser, tighten them up a bit, enough to hold the spring but still let in move. push the car back and forth on the ground to let the rear tires straighten out well, then torque up to specs. 65 ft/lbs from mem, but best to check the spec yourself.
Thanks for all the info- I would have never thought about buying an old Vette if this forum was not available
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 09:16 AM
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One last question. I might as well paint the spring while it is out. Any tricks there?? Do all the springs come apart once out of the vehicle or are they attached to each other as an assembly? What paint works best?

Darrel1
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 05:13 PM
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Shouldn't an automatic L48 from 1980 have a fiberglas monospring?
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 05:59 PM
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Corvette Enthusiast recently did a very nice article with pics on how to rebuild an original steel rear spring.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 06:13 PM
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You can use the "search" function within this forum too. Very good information at your fingertips!
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Shouldn't an automatic L48 from 1980 have a fiberglas monospring?
I was thinking the exact same thing.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Darrel1
One last question. I might as well paint the spring while it is out. Any tricks there?? Do all the springs come apart once out of the vehicle or are they attached to each other as an assembly? What paint works best?

Darrel1
If the spring is out, it would be a good idea to replace it, if it is the original, they loose springyness to about 1/2 of what they were. VBP has good springs,, though i got mine from Duntov motors- free shipping, which can't be beat on a 55lb spring. A glass spring isn't a bad idea either, better response over a steel one, but about twice the price, but i would change it "while your at it" -=- fun for the whole family!!!
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Shouldn't an automatic L48 from 1980 have a fiberglas monospring?
Is this true? Mine is steel and I cannot remember how many leafs?
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by brdd
Corvette Enthusiast recently did a very nice article with pics on how to rebuild an original steel rear spring.
Do you have a link??
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
Take the spring off and do it right. Chances are if he did that wrong, something else is wrong too. Unless your going to replace the rods there is no sense in destroying them.

Taking the spring off is not a big deal, put it up on stands (safety first) use a clamp on the end of the spring inboard of the bolt and a floor jack to raise it off the end bolt. Remove the bolt and then do the other end. The clamp or vice grips is to keep the floor jack from slipping.
Once thats done there are 4 bolts that hold the spring to the differential.
TO which I may add, put a wood block between the jack and the fiber spring, stops marring up, possible damage to the spring.....
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Darrel1
Is this true? Mine is steel and I cannot remember how many leafs?
Do you have the Gymkhana suspension?
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