Wiring Harness Help Needed -- Part 1
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Baton Rouge LA
Wiring Harness Help Needed -- Part 1
1969 Corvette
In the middle of replacing the dash wiring harness -- there were a lot of brittle/broken wires and odd electrical things going on. Both dash pads, bezel, and center console are out now, but I've found a couple items that I need some help with...
1. In the original harness (and the new one - from Lectric Ltd) there is what looks to be a ground with 2 black wires joined together with a metal connector in the center console area (near cig. lighter), but this was not connected anywhere. It looks a ground, but I don't know where to attach it. Any ideas?
2. The wire cables that open the side fender vents were apparently clipped about 1.5" from the vent lever by a previous owner. I was thinking of bending both cut ends and hooking together, but then the bulkiness kinda hangs up when I try to operate the lever... Is there a better way to repair this cable?
Thanks for any help,
Travis
In the middle of replacing the dash wiring harness -- there were a lot of brittle/broken wires and odd electrical things going on. Both dash pads, bezel, and center console are out now, but I've found a couple items that I need some help with...
1. In the original harness (and the new one - from Lectric Ltd) there is what looks to be a ground with 2 black wires joined together with a metal connector in the center console area (near cig. lighter), but this was not connected anywhere. It looks a ground, but I don't know where to attach it. Any ideas?
2. The wire cables that open the side fender vents were apparently clipped about 1.5" from the vent lever by a previous owner. I was thinking of bending both cut ends and hooking together, but then the bulkiness kinda hangs up when I try to operate the lever... Is there a better way to repair this cable?
Thanks for any help,
Travis
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 365
Likes: 1
From: Glenview IL
For #1. If I remember correctly, there is a ground tab on the shifter plate itself. I remember taking the plate out of my '68 and wondering what it was there for.
I may be wrong, though. Its been a while since I had the console apart.
~Rich
I may be wrong, though. Its been a while since I had the console apart.
~Rich
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 22
From: Marina CA
I just totally rewired my 68 with Lectric Limited wire looms. The double black is indeed a ground and it hooks to a tab on the lighter housing in the console. As far as the air vent cables, I replaced mine with new ones and lubed up the air vent flapper door pivot points for nice easy operation.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Baton Rouge LA
1Fordman, you are absolutely right. I see the ground attachment on the cig lighter now clear as day.
Did you find the vent levers sold by themselves?? They look to be tack welded to a brace on the back of the face plate to me (I don't see any screws).
Also, I've been debating...Do you think I should replace the vacuum hoses for the heater (no a/c) while everything is exposed? Come to think of it -- I haven't needed to use the heater in the 2 years I've had her (it was in the 80's here last week!). The hoses aren't cracked, but look a little flimsy.
Thx
Did you find the vent levers sold by themselves?? They look to be tack welded to a brace on the back of the face plate to me (I don't see any screws).
Also, I've been debating...Do you think I should replace the vacuum hoses for the heater (no a/c) while everything is exposed? Come to think of it -- I haven't needed to use the heater in the 2 years I've had her (it was in the 80's here last week!). The hoses aren't cracked, but look a little flimsy.
Thx
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 22
From: Marina CA
In your other post you mentioned the cables were clipped about 1-1/2" to short. Replacement cables will cure this, now if the pivot levers have a problem that's another story. They're part of the framework that the heater control panel sits in. I would replace the vacuum lines while you have good access, remember Murphy's law!
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Baton Rouge LA
Right, the levers themselves are okay. The cables is wound 2-3 times around the post at the bottom of the lever; but that looks awfully tricky to get to... To replace the cables, did you re-wind new cables to the lever post??
(yep, Murphy's law never fails for me -- Purchased a hose replacement kit last night.)
(yep, Murphy's law never fails for me -- Purchased a hose replacement kit last night.)
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 22
From: Marina CA
Mine was easy to replace the cables on as there's no interior in the car right now. But to answer your question yes you can make your own inner cables. Buy piano wire in the same diameter as your inner wire then you'll need a tool made especially to wind the circular ends on the cables. I bought one of the tools 20+ years ago (it's either made by Lisle or KD tools) and it has paid for itself many times over.
You can fudge a bit on the length as there is a threaded plastic adjuster sleeve about mid way down the cable to either lengthen or shorten it. The adjuster ensures you get full closing and opening of the vent door.
The key to the whole process is to make sure the flapper doors open and close easily (no binding) and the cables slide smoothly in the outer housing. If not the cables will bind and kink and the flappers wont open and close completely.
If you buy new cables they will come pre-wound on both ends and will slide easily. I replaces mine because they were not smooth sliding and the flapper doors did not open and close easily.
You can fudge a bit on the length as there is a threaded plastic adjuster sleeve about mid way down the cable to either lengthen or shorten it. The adjuster ensures you get full closing and opening of the vent door.
The key to the whole process is to make sure the flapper doors open and close easily (no binding) and the cables slide smoothly in the outer housing. If not the cables will bind and kink and the flappers wont open and close completely.
If you buy new cables they will come pre-wound on both ends and will slide easily. I replaces mine because they were not smooth sliding and the flapper doors did not open and close easily.
Last edited by 1Fordman; Dec 19, 2007 at 03:25 PM.
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Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Baton Rouge LA
Still stuck on the courtesy light circuit: when I first connected the battery, the 20A fuse blew, so I checked my (all NEW!) bulbs were in straight (the harness is brand spanking new). Turns out I was dumb and connected the console ground wire (2 w/ female connector) from the harness to the cig. lighter. When I realized that was wrong and used a jumper to a frame ground along with a new jumper from the ground for the cig. lighter, the fuse doesn't blow and my 12V cig. lighter works!
BUT still no courtesy lights! The door ajar light comes on when either door is open, and the key buzzer relay works with the key in and door open. Also, the door jamb switch will spark a little when pressed or when key turned off
Anybody?
BUT still no courtesy lights! The door ajar light comes on when either door is open, and the key buzzer relay works with the key in and door open. Also, the door jamb switch will spark a little when pressed or when key turned off
Anybody?