When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When I put my car on a lift or lift it up on jackstands, I notice the gap at the top of the door become greater. That's not suppossed to happen right? I usually put the jackstands right before the doors on the front, but this has me wondering. I don't see any obvious frame problems...
Sounds like you have a weak frame and/or birdcage. It shouldn't flex at all. My 77 has been on stands for about 18 months, and there is no sign of movement at all.
Isn't the birdcage in the back? I can see no cracks or anything in the frame that would show sign of being damaged. I really hope it's not a problem with the frame.
I had a similar and it was 1 of the front body mounts had rotted. When I had the body mount fixed it also fixed an array of other minor problems that I had not really noticed because everything has worstened so gradually
I do believe these cars flex. Many shops open the doors and leave them ajar before raising them.
The frame is pretty flexible on these cars. Mine did that too, and the frame was in fine shape with just minor surface rust common to cars of this age.
After I welded some frame reinforcements along the sides, the car doesn't flex at all now when placed on jack stands.
The frame is pretty flexible on these cars. Mine did that too, and the frame was in fine shape with just minor surface rust common to cars of this age.
After I welded some frame reinforcements along the sides, the car doesn't flex at all now when placed on jack stands.
Another case in point that I should have mentioned regards my '76 which I had on stands for a year or so. When I lifted the cover off I discovered to my dismay that the rear bumper cover had split from top to bottom. I don't know what else could have caused this other than flexing of the body. I had bought the car new and was about 10 years old at the time and the body, frame, and bumper cover were in excellent shape (and still are I might add)..
These cars have some flex in them. I put my '75 on stands and the passenger door doesn't want to close anymore. Once I get it down it will be fine.
I've read several posts that reference people opening the doors and popping the hood before jacking up any C3 and they have had trouble once the car was on stands and had flexed.
I do believe these cars flex. Many shops open the doors and leave them ajar before raising them.
Originally Posted by wjsullivan
These cars have some flex in them. I put my '75 on stands and the passenger door doesn't want to close anymore. Once I get it down it will be fine.
I've read several posts that reference people opening the doors and popping the hood before jacking up any C3 and they have had trouble once the car was on stands and had flexed.
Originally Posted by Jason Staley
The frame is pretty flexible on these cars. Mine did that too, and the frame was in fine shape with just minor surface rust common to cars of this age.
After I welded some frame reinforcements along the sides, the car doesn't flex at all now when placed on jack stands.
They're flexing because the frames are weak. Jason, you just proved the point. A C3 frame SHOULDN'T flex when lifted, and one that does is a sign of problems. As I have said many times, my 77 has been on stands for 18 months and the doors still work just fine.
Believe you're OK all you like...but the results won't be pretty when your car cracks in half on the highway.
They're flexing because the frames are weak. Jason, you just proved the point. A C3 frame SHOULDN'T flex when lifted, and one that does is a sign of problems. As I have said many times, my 77 has been on stands for 18 months and the doors still work just fine.
Believe you're OK all you like...but the results won't be pretty when your car cracks in half on the highway.
I have had mine jacked side to side, front to back, one side or the other or even one corner and never had a problem opening the doors or the hood.
They're flexing because the frames are weak. Jason, you just proved the point. A C3 frame SHOULDN'T flex when lifted, and one that does is a sign of problems. As I have said many times, my 77 has been on stands for 18 months and the doors still work just fine.
Believe you're OK all you like...but the results won't be pretty when your car cracks in half on the highway.
In my experience the coupes are normally good with the t-tops on, but flex a bit with them off. The convertables will flex, that is probably why the have the tapered pins in the rear door jams to stiffen things up.
mine has been on stands for about a month now. Doors, hood and tops all close or open with no problems. If the jackstands were in the wrong positions on the frame, could that cause flex?
I looked at it today and there's no cracks in the frame anywhere. Unless there's major rust issues, metals don't really just soften. My body mounts are pretty bad, that was on the agenda to fix next. I'll replace them and look into getting frame supports welded in. I'll have to check the forum for posts on frame supports. Thanks guys.
They're flexing because the frames are weak. Jason, you just proved the point. A C3 frame SHOULDN'T flex when lifted, and one that does is a sign of problems. As I have said many times, my 77 has been on stands for 18 months and the doors still work just fine.
Believe you're OK all you like...but the results won't be pretty when your car cracks in half on the highway.
Mine did flex, not enough that you couldn't get the doors to open and shut, but the gap between the doors and front fenders did open up enough that it was noticable. I've checked the whole frame and there wasn't any signs of any problems, just a flexible frame. Now if you get ALOT of flex, then I would be worried. I wanted to stiffen the chassis some without happering the interior room, which is at a premium for me - I'm 6'3" and can't really give up much room in there. So I welded some flat plates of steel along the frame (from wheel well to wheel well).
I looked at it today and there's no cracks in the frame anywhere. Unless there's major rust issues, metals don't really just soften. My body mounts are pretty bad, that was on the agenda to fix next. I'll replace them and look into getting frame supports welded in. I'll have to check the forum for posts on frame supports. Thanks guys.
Check your body mounts first and then worry about frame supports IF nessasary.
Just my 2 cents worth
Sorry .One more thing when you do your body mounts stick with rubber . The poly's are to stiff and do not allow for body flex .Body mounts are intened to allow for flex because the frame should not .
Just my 3 cents worth
With the suspension rebuild I'm using all poly except the motor mounts and body mounts. I've heard that before. How would the body mounts stop frame flexing?
With the suspension rebuild I'm using all poly except the motor mounts and body mounts. I've heard that before. How would the body mounts stop frame flexing?
The body mounts allow the body to flex because the frame should not flex Sorry I did not explain myself better.The motor mounts ,well thats up to you but I would suggest using good quality locking mounts .
Sorry .One more thing when you do your body mounts stick with rubber . The poly's are to stiff and do not allow for body flex .Body mounts are intened to allow for flex because the frame should not .
Just my 3 cents worth
The only reason the factory used rubber mounts was for ride quality. 68-72 cars came with aluminum mounts, which are going to be a helluva lot more stiff than poly.
I looked at it today and there's no cracks in the frame anywhere. Unless there's major rust issues, metals don't really just soften. My body mounts are pretty bad, that was on the agenda to fix next. I'll replace them and look into getting frame supports welded in. I'll have to check the forum for posts on frame supports. Thanks guys.
I really doubt the body mounts are going to allow the body to move unless something is moving under them.