Headlight switch?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
It's tough, but not horrible. You'll want to remove the screws that go up into the upper dash pad, and the two screws along the side by the A-pillar.
Pull the knee pad away from the dash enough to get you hand behind to where the headlight switch is. Feel on the body of the switch for a smooth metal spring loaded button. Pull the **** out to the on position, and then push that button down, and pull the **** and shaft all the way out of the switch.
Remove the wiring plug from the switch, and make note of which vacuum line goes where before you pull them as well.
In the front, under the plastic grommet, will be a jam nut threaded around a shaft coming through the dash pad from the body of the headlight switch.
Now, there is one part that may or may not still be there. Mine was not on two of my '77 Vettes. It's a small brace, very flimsy actually, that rings around that shaft to keep it from rotating, and it screws to the back of the knee pad. You'll need to get a good eye on it, and get a small screw driver int here to get that screw out.
It's a pain so I hope someone before you has messed with this switch and failed to re-install that small brace.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 392
Likes: 70
From: VA
It's tough, but not horrible. You'll want to remove the screws that go up into the upper dash pad, and the two screws along the side by the A-pillar.
Pull the knee pad away from the dash enough to get you hand behind to where the headlight switch is. Feel on the body of the switch for a smooth metal spring loaded button. Pull the **** out to the on position, and then push that button down, and pull the **** and shaft all the way out of the switch.
Remove the wiring plug from the switch, and make note of which vacuum line goes where before you pull them as well.
In the front, under the plastic grommet, will be a jam nut threaded around a shaft coming through the dash pad from the body of the headlight switch.
Now, there is one part that may or may not still be there. Mine was not on two of my '77 Vettes. It's a small brace, very flimsy actually, that rings around that shaft to keep it from rotating, and it screws to the back of the knee pad. You'll need to get a good eye on it, and get a small screw driver int here to get that screw out.
It's a pain so I hope someone before you has messed with this switch and failed to re-install that small brace.
Pull the knee pad away from the dash enough to get you hand behind to where the headlight switch is. Feel on the body of the switch for a smooth metal spring loaded button. Pull the **** out to the on position, and then push that button down, and pull the **** and shaft all the way out of the switch.
Remove the wiring plug from the switch, and make note of which vacuum line goes where before you pull them as well.
In the front, under the plastic grommet, will be a jam nut threaded around a shaft coming through the dash pad from the body of the headlight switch.
Now, there is one part that may or may not still be there. Mine was not on two of my '77 Vettes. It's a small brace, very flimsy actually, that rings around that shaft to keep it from rotating, and it screws to the back of the knee pad. You'll need to get a good eye on it, and get a small screw driver int here to get that screw out.
It's a pain so I hope someone before you has messed with this switch and failed to re-install that small brace.
I have the two screws removed under the Windshielf post, however cannot bring out enough to get hand to switch.
Thanks,
Bick
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
There are actually three that go up into the upper dash. Here you can see all three circled in red. Then there are two on the outside edge of the panel by the door, and one in the other side that goes into the center gauge bezel.
Keep in mind the speedo cable and harness is going to fight you when you try to pull that panel back. You won't get it to pull out too far...just enough to work on the switch.
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