700R4 or 2004R????
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Henryville Indiana
700R4 or 2004R????
I am going to swap in an overdrive trans over the winter.I have been trying to decide between the 2004r and the 700r4.
I have a 79 automatic with a mild 406 and 355 rear.I go on cruises and don't like having to tach the engine at 3400+ to keep up with the C4-C6s that have 1-2 overdrives.It sucks fuel like a jet and 400s don't like rpm anyway.
I can get either trans for the same price and converter too.I know where a destroyed 82 is so drive shaft is available for 50 bucks.
Is the crossmember different with the 700r4??
I have seen posts that the 2004r is a direct bolt in,I don't mind changing the X member and driveshaft if the 700r4 is the better way to go.I am not looking to get on PINKS with this car but it does have appx 425hp.
Thanks.
I have a 79 automatic with a mild 406 and 355 rear.I go on cruises and don't like having to tach the engine at 3400+ to keep up with the C4-C6s that have 1-2 overdrives.It sucks fuel like a jet and 400s don't like rpm anyway.
I can get either trans for the same price and converter too.I know where a destroyed 82 is so drive shaft is available for 50 bucks.
Is the crossmember different with the 700r4??
I have seen posts that the 2004r is a direct bolt in,I don't mind changing the X member and driveshaft if the 700r4 is the better way to go.I am not looking to get on PINKS with this car but it does have appx 425hp.
Thanks.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
The 2004r is an easier install and has a better gearset, Your going to have to do something with the cross member and shifter detent no mater what you do. I don't believe the 7004r is much stronger than the 2004r, but I do know that some of the early 700s had bearing lube issues.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 832
Likes: 0
From: Sarasota Florida
read this thread. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1890376
you can talk to grandsport about this...he used a 2004r with over 600 hp!
Last edited by andylmusic76; Dec 22, 2007 at 09:52 AM. Reason: added link
Pro
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
From: Overland Park Kansas
My 700R4 was supposedly rebuilt less than 7k miles ago and is being nothing but a huge pain. I'm guessing the sun shell is trashed and probably the 2/4 band. I have about 460 crank hp.
I guess not everyone will have similar experiences, but damn I wish I would have found a 5 speed corvette. Automatics are such a pain in the ***.
I guess not everyone will have similar experiences, but damn I wish I would have found a 5 speed corvette. Automatics are such a pain in the ***.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,991
Likes: 3
From: Piscataway NJ
I like the 2004r. Go over to the turbo buick fourms they put some serious hp and torque to these transmission. It will cost yah for all the billet pieces that are available. CK performance is one that manufactures these parts. Mine will never see the hp that this trans can handle stock.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,284
Likes: 0
From: I just killed your thread Redneck AZ
If you have a turbo 400 then you don't need to change cross member or the drive shaft if going with a 2004r. They can easily be made to handle 450hp/tq
Misc items you'll need:
dip stick
dust cover
27 spline yoke for a 350 turbo
1310 to 1330 combo universal
Items not needed, but make things easier:
Shift dedent kit from shiftworks
ez tv cable kit from bowtie
Misc items you'll need:
dip stick
dust cover
27 spline yoke for a 350 turbo
1310 to 1330 combo universal
Items not needed, but make things easier:
Shift dedent kit from shiftworks
ez tv cable kit from bowtie
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Bought my '72 vert with a factory Muncie in it....went 700r4 for the o/drive some ten years ago....the first build lasted some 5 years, then troubles....3/4 clutch pack, and the 2/4 band....it had a superior/fairbanks kit in it.....started doing the 3/4 slip again, and I gave up and put in a 200 4r last year going strong, and I put in a Trans Go shift kit....did the rebuilt myself.....with new pump and converter and soft parts kit....
it's much more of a bolt in swap, and you just take the mounting shoe off the cross support and set the tranny on the support directly....
it's much more of a bolt in swap, and you just take the mounting shoe off the cross support and set the tranny on the support directly....
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Sun Peaks British Columbia
I swapped in the 700r4. Originally I kept the same crossmember, (79' welded in). The stock, used 7004r that I first put in didn't last long. 3/4 clutches started slipping. I had a 700r4 built with a bunch of heavy duty after market parts, and when I put it in I also cut out the cross memeber and put a custom tubular one in that is removable. Now I don't have to remove the engine to get the tranny out. The new tranny is rock solid now.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Henryville Indiana
Thanks for the input folks.I have a good builder that told me to use the 700r4 and he can make it live as well as the 4L60E thats in my Impala SS.The clutch packs,and band and sunshell is crap in stock form from what I have been told.
The 2004r is a good geared unit that takes MUCHO bucks to beef up.That offsets the savings of being a true bolt-in to some extent.
How many of you use the lock up feature for the converter????
Oh,I forgot....I have a TH350 now,so I don't need to get a turbo yoke.
The 2004r is a good geared unit that takes MUCHO bucks to beef up.That offsets the savings of being a true bolt-in to some extent.
How many of you use the lock up feature for the converter????
Oh,I forgot....I have a TH350 now,so I don't need to get a turbo yoke.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,720
Likes: 12
From: Chattanooga TN
700R4 is OK if you use an '88 up core to build and hook up/adjust the TV cable BEFORE you drive it. You can destroy a transmission fast if you don't adjust it. The '82 C3 driveshaft will not work in an iron diff car, only an aluminum diff car. The 350 yoke works for either 200R4 or 700R4. I prefer the 700 myself, which I have. GM never factory installed a 200R4 behind a BB, in a Corvette, or in a full-size truck or van. I don't believe they were ever factory installed behind anything larger than a 307 CI engine (Olds). They can be made to perform, but it takes money-you cannot take a bone stock 200R4 and expect it to live long behind 400 hp. I have lockup via the computer with my TPI conversion.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
The 700R4 is what i installed in my 79 back in 1988 or so. You have to do some welding on the cross member to get the correct mounting point and get a shorter drive shaft. It is bigger an heavier than a 200R4. Power handling of a 700R4 can exceed most peoples budgets. I had a 850 hp unit from Art Carr racing
The gear spacing is bad on a 700. Smarter people with lower powered motors like your sub 500 hp can use a built up 200 without the cross member or drive line mods
When it really comes down to it. You might as well save the money and go with a TKO 600 stick shift. I would never go back to a hot rodded auto again
The gear spacing is bad on a 700. Smarter people with lower powered motors like your sub 500 hp can use a built up 200 without the cross member or drive line mods
When it really comes down to it. You might as well save the money and go with a TKO 600 stick shift. I would never go back to a hot rodded auto again
Pro
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 518
Likes: 17
Both can be built to handle most street engines, and the choice should be regarding their gearsets...
a) If you have a 3.08 or lower numerically rear gear, then go for the 700R4 (3.06 first gear).
b) If you have a 3.55 or higher numerically rear gear then go for the 2004R (2.75 first gear).
c) If you have a 3.36 either will work pretty well, though if you're making a lot of torque then the 2004R might be a better choice to avoid blowing away the tires.
I've run a well built 700R4/3.08 combo behind the warm 406ci that's in my 71 Coupe for 15 years.
a) If you have a 3.08 or lower numerically rear gear, then go for the 700R4 (3.06 first gear).
b) If you have a 3.55 or higher numerically rear gear then go for the 2004R (2.75 first gear).
c) If you have a 3.36 either will work pretty well, though if you're making a lot of torque then the 2004R might be a better choice to avoid blowing away the tires.
I've run a well built 700R4/3.08 combo behind the warm 406ci that's in my 71 Coupe for 15 years.
I am going to swap in an overdrive trans over the winter.I have been trying to decide between the 2004r and the 700r4.
I have a 79 automatic with a mild 406 and 355 rear.I go on cruises and don't like having to tach the engine at 3400+ to keep up with the C4-C6s that have 1-2 overdrives.It sucks fuel like a jet and 400s don't like rpm anyway.
I can get either trans for the same price and converter too.I know where a destroyed 82 is so drive shaft is available for 50 bucks.
Is the crossmember different with the 700r4??
I have seen posts that the 2004r is a direct bolt in,I don't mind changing the X member and driveshaft if the 700r4 is the better way to go.I am not looking to get on PINKS with this car but it does have appx 425hp.
Thanks.
I have a 79 automatic with a mild 406 and 355 rear.I go on cruises and don't like having to tach the engine at 3400+ to keep up with the C4-C6s that have 1-2 overdrives.It sucks fuel like a jet and 400s don't like rpm anyway.
I can get either trans for the same price and converter too.I know where a destroyed 82 is so drive shaft is available for 50 bucks.
Is the crossmember different with the 700r4??
I have seen posts that the 2004r is a direct bolt in,I don't mind changing the X member and driveshaft if the 700r4 is the better way to go.I am not looking to get on PINKS with this car but it does have appx 425hp.
Thanks.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Henryville Indiana
markdtn,
Thanks for the info about the 82 shaft.I wasn't aware of that.
I can get the shaft shortened,balanced,new joints for 140.00 from the local driveline shop(2 days).
I have 3.55s and 275-60-15 tires(tall)
I have access to a Monte SS trans for 150.00(bolt-in swap)or a 700r4 for 60.00 from a 90 model truck w/cable speedo that needs rebuilt.The 82 x member is 100.00.
Thanks for the info about the 82 shaft.I wasn't aware of that.
I can get the shaft shortened,balanced,new joints for 140.00 from the local driveline shop(2 days).
I have 3.55s and 275-60-15 tires(tall)
I have access to a Monte SS trans for 150.00(bolt-in swap)or a 700r4 for 60.00 from a 90 model truck w/cable speedo that needs rebuilt.The 82 x member is 100.00.