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If it's ceramic coated you'll need to do a bit of grinding first.
If they're stainless steel, you'll have a bit of trouble welding it.
Best bet is to get an exhaust shop to weld on the bung as near to an exhaust port as they can (The #7 would be easiest to get to, easier to orient the sensor, and would require less wire).
I assume you will have to lose the cats, so what will that do to the oxygen sensor and it's placement. I would like to do the same thing when I get an 82, so please keep us posted.
The O2 sensor has nothing to do with the cat. converter. If you have not bought the headers yet, you can order them with an O2 bung welded in. It needs to be on the driver's side header.
Thanks for the comments so far.
I wonder if you open up the two pipes and only have one sensor, will it work correct. I put true duals on my 1987 fuel inj. Chevy truck and it would not let the check engine light go off until we installed a balance tube between the 2 pipes.Grasping at straws here, but i am going to try something.
You have to have an O2 sensor with the '82. You won't be able to drive it otherwise.
You'll be able to drive it but it'll throw a code at you and you'll need to jumper it into "limp-home mode." which goes to a base fuel/spark map (the same one used at WOT) which locks out your timing and delivers constant, RPM based fuel.
So your mileage will be total crap and you'll have no power, but it will drive. :-P
Oh, and expect smoke.
It would be FAR more intelligent to run an O2 Sensor.
The cat does have to do with the O2 sensor, but only on cars built after 1993. This is because with OBD II they introduced a second O2 sensor that checks to see if the cat is in fact doing it's job.
The cat does have to do with the O2 sensor, but only on cars built after 1993. This is because with OBD II they introduced a second O2 sensor that checks to see if the cat is in fact doing it's job.
Oh, that makes sense, so on the 82's they only have one sensor ahead of the cat, and they do not have a sensor after the cat, is that correct? If so losing the cat and going to sidepipes should be no problem. Thanks for the clarification, as I have been a C4/C5 guy, and just learning on the C3's.
So has anyone just ran a straight pipe from the manifold to the sidepipes like the 69 optional sidepipes, or do you have to go to the aftermarket Hooker or Patriot sidepipes?
does anyone think that you could put the sensor in one pipe or should it go in the collector? ( where all 4 pipes come together on the right side of the car) .
Install it on the header like mooney said. It will be fine. If your going to side pipe your car, you should mod the engine a little to give the car a little more HP. New heads, computer friendly mild cam and open up the intake manifold. Let it really breathe. A 3.73 rear end ring and pinion will bring the car alive too.
I've seen 02 sensor 'simulators' for sale. they're supposed to prevent check eng lite from coming on. Anyone know how performance is affected?
Negatively, as it's not a true reading of exhaust O2, so expect a "mushy" power curve and probably an over-rich mixture.
I'd run an O2 Sensor in the #7 primary with Long Tube headers.
If I were running shortys or block huggers, I'd put the O2 sensor in the collector.
Ideally you want to run an O2 sensor in your crossover pipe/y pipe but if you can only stick it in a single primary it'll still work at least reasonably well.
Negatively, as it's not a true reading of exhaust O2, so expect a "mushy" power curve and probably an over-rich mixture.
I'd run an O2 Sensor in the #7 primary with Long Tube headers.
If I were running shortys or block huggers, I'd put the O2 sensor in the collector.
Ideally you want to run an O2 sensor in your crossover pipe/y pipe but if you can only stick it in a single primary it'll still work at least reasonably well.