New rotor questions
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Lantana TX
New rotor questions
Hey all.... Merry Christmas and yes I am still doing Christmas presents at 1:15 am.
I am looking at replacing my rotors withhttp://stores.brakeplanet.com/Items/es36806?sck=7970197
I have read about 3 dozen topics and want to make sure i understand what I am doing.
1976 Corvette
1) Do I have to use and or connect the emergency brake for the normal brake system to work properly?
2) Assuming that I need to remove the rivits on the front and rear I have heard that I do not have to have them rivited on again. Is this tru or not? Or should I just do it to eliminate any possibility of future rotor runout?
3) Cost to rivit??? ideas? also could a chain brake dealer do this with ease without screwing it up?
4) does anyone have any papers articles with pics on how to do this?
Thanks to all and have a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year.
I am looking at replacing my rotors withhttp://stores.brakeplanet.com/Items/es36806?sck=7970197
I have read about 3 dozen topics and want to make sure i understand what I am doing.
1976 Corvette
1) Do I have to use and or connect the emergency brake for the normal brake system to work properly?
2) Assuming that I need to remove the rivits on the front and rear I have heard that I do not have to have them rivited on again. Is this tru or not? Or should I just do it to eliminate any possibility of future rotor runout?
3) Cost to rivit??? ideas? also could a chain brake dealer do this with ease without screwing it up?
4) does anyone have any papers articles with pics on how to do this?
Thanks to all and have a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
#1: No, the emergency brake does not need to be set up for the brakes to work properly. In fact, I removed mine completely when they both failed and I really didn't want to mess with installing a new one when I never used the old one.
#2: The rotors can go back on without rivets. You have to battle runout with shims and properly built wheel bearings. Any good shop can help you eliminate runout so don't worry about the rivets. The lip on the hub and the studs, and the wheel are what keep the rotor on when you install it and it won't go anywhere.
#2: The rotors can go back on without rivets. You have to battle runout with shims and properly built wheel bearings. Any good shop can help you eliminate runout so don't worry about the rivets. The lip on the hub and the studs, and the wheel are what keep the rotor on when you install it and it won't go anywhere.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Lantana TX
#1: No, the emergency brake does not need to be set up for the brakes to work properly. In fact, I removed mine completely when they both failed and I really didn't want to mess with installing a new one when I never used the old one.
#2: The rotors can go back on without rivets. You have to battle runout with shims and properly built wheel bearings. Any good shop can help you eliminate runout so don't worry about the rivets. The lip on the hub and the studs, and the wheel are what keep the rotor on when you install it and it won't go anywhere.
#2: The rotors can go back on without rivets. You have to battle runout with shims and properly built wheel bearings. Any good shop can help you eliminate runout so don't worry about the rivets. The lip on the hub and the studs, and the wheel are what keep the rotor on when you install it and it won't go anywhere.
how will I know if they need shims? Is it easy to put shims on? where can I buy them?
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
The only issue with not riviting the rotors is SOMETIMES it makes bleeding hard since the rotor can move during bleeding, and pump a little air into the calipers.
Usually only an issue with quiestionable calipers though...
Keith
Usually only an issue with quiestionable calipers though...
Keith
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
You won't know until runout is measured, after the bearings have all been checked or redone. If you have bad rear bearings, shimming won't help. You can check for runout yourself, but you have to have the right tools, and most people don't have that stuff in their garage.
Call around to a few of your local Vette friendly shops and ask about having your wheel bearings all checked, and make sure they understand how to check for runout properly, and how to correct the issues.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
You won't know until runout is measured, after the bearings have all been checked or redone. If you have bad rear bearings, shimming won't help. You can check for runout yourself, but you have to have the right tools, and most people don't have that stuff in their garage.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
You don't have to rivet your calipers back on. If you want you can tap the old rivet holes and bolt them back on if the new rotors you get have the "rivet holes" drilled in them. Many replacement rotors do not. The originals were riveted to simplify the production process on the assembly line. Tapping out the old rivet holes and bolting the new rotors on helps to ensure that the assembly operates as a unit - easier to adjust run out tolerances if necessary. I replaced the fronts on my 1976 with Honeywell Bendix made in USA rotors (Part Number 141212) and they did not have the additional holes so it was impossible to re-rivet or re-bolt the rotor to the hub. Did it matter? Not a bit. I replaced the inner and outer wheel bearings at the same time with new Timkins so there would be no slop there. I checked the run out with my Central Tools magnetic dial indicator set and both fronts were well within tolerances. Did it a year ago and brakes are still rock solid no air pumping (calipers are 24 yr old VBP SS Lip Seal type). I think it is more important to make sure you are putting on a quality made properly machined rotor, and pad set, not an imported P.O.S. that you buy for twenty nine bucks. And now is the time to repack or replace your wheel bearings too since you are there. Just my 2 cents.
Last edited by stock76; Dec 25, 2007 at 01:38 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 1,559
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Everything you want to no about Vette brakes!
Check out this site http://www.idavette.net/hib/vette_bbfh.htm then scroll down to 12 & 13. PG.
Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas!
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
Check out this site http://www.idavette.net/hib/vette_bbfh.htm then scroll down to 12 & 13. PG.
Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas!
Excellent reference.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Lantana TX
You don't have to rivet your calipers back on. If you want you can tap the old rivet holes and bolt them back on if the new rotors you get have the "rivet holes" drilled in them. Many replacement rotors do not. The originals were riveted to simplify the production process on the assembly line. Tapping out the old rivet holes and bolting the new rotors on helps to ensure that the assembly operates as a unit - easier to adjust run out tolerances if necessary. I replaced the fronts on my 1976 with Honeywell Bendix made in USA rotors (Part Number 141212) and they did not have the additional holes so it was impossible to re-rivet or re-bolt the rotor to the hub. Did it matter? Not a bit. I replaced the inner and outer wheel bearings at the same time with new Timkins so there would be no slop there. I checked the run out with my Central Tools magnetic dial indicator set and both fronts were well within tolerances. Did it a year ago and brakes are still rock solid no air pumping (calipers are 24 yr old VBP SS Lip Seal type). I think it is more important to make sure you are putting on a quality made properly machined rotor, and pad set, not an imported P.O.S. that you buy for twenty nine bucks. And now is the time to repack or replace your wheel bearings too since you are there. Just my 2 cents.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
Not very difficult to do. you have to take the rotors off when you replace them and that is the perfect time to go ahead and inspect and re-pack or replace your inner and outer wheel bearings. Everything is already apart. Here are a couple of links that take you through it step by step: http://www.CorvetteMagazine.com/content/view/57/ and : http://www.CorvetteMagazine.com/content/view/84/. Best of luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 1,559
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Front wheel bearing service.
Hi again, It's not hard to do, get some wheel bearing grease, two new seals and 4 bearings and see if you can return the bearing if you don't use them.
As far as the actual work:
jack up and support the car
remove the wheel and caliper and pads
remove the dust cover
the cotter pin and big nut.
pull the hub outward.
the outside bearing will fall into your hand, inspect it and replace it if need be.
the inside bearing will stay in the hub
lay the hub down and use a long punch to knock out the seal and bearing.
If any bearing is bad you will have to remove the old race ( the part the bearing spins on ).
The outside race you remove with the punch from the inner side.
The inside race you knock out from the outer side, you'll see 3 slots to place the punch.
You can also just bring the hub to a shop and they will do it.
Also mark which hole in the rotor went to which lug, this step can save you from runout problems.
If this was my car I'd just change all the bearing now.
A Haynes manual will show you all these steps.
Last think, borrow a in lb torque wrench from the auto store so you don't under or over tighten the big nut on re assembly. PG
As far as the actual work:
jack up and support the car
remove the wheel and caliper and pads
remove the dust cover
the cotter pin and big nut.
pull the hub outward.
the outside bearing will fall into your hand, inspect it and replace it if need be.
the inside bearing will stay in the hub
lay the hub down and use a long punch to knock out the seal and bearing.
If any bearing is bad you will have to remove the old race ( the part the bearing spins on ).
The outside race you remove with the punch from the inner side.
The inside race you knock out from the outer side, you'll see 3 slots to place the punch.
You can also just bring the hub to a shop and they will do it.
Also mark which hole in the rotor went to which lug, this step can save you from runout problems.
If this was my car I'd just change all the bearing now.
A Haynes manual will show you all these steps.
Last think, borrow a in lb torque wrench from the auto store so you don't under or over tighten the big nut on re assembly. PG
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Lantana TX
Petes74 and stocks 76
I cannot thank you guys enough. As soon as someone mentioned the removal or bearings and replacing them I just about ****. I am great with engines but never touched stuff like this.
I wish you were close by so I could buy you guys some beer.
Anyway, thanks again, but I do have a few more questions.
1) The article and what Pete said to mark the hub to prevennt runout. I will be installing new rotors so will this matter at all?
2) Is it OK to have too much grease?
3) Should I be concerned with rotor runout when I am done. Everything is being replaced i.e. bearing stuff, rotors, calipers?
I cannot thank you guys enough. As soon as someone mentioned the removal or bearings and replacing them I just about ****. I am great with engines but never touched stuff like this.
I wish you were close by so I could buy you guys some beer.
Anyway, thanks again, but I do have a few more questions.
1) The article and what Pete said to mark the hub to prevennt runout. I will be installing new rotors so will this matter at all?
2) Is it OK to have too much grease?
3) Should I be concerned with rotor runout when I am done. Everything is being replaced i.e. bearing stuff, rotors, calipers?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
Petes74 and stocks 76
I cannot thank you guys enough. As soon as someone mentioned the removal or bearings and replacing them I just about ****. I am great with engines but never touched stuff like this.
I wish you were close by so I could buy you guys some beer.
Anyway, thanks again, but I do have a few more questions.
1) The article and what Pete said to mark the hub to prevennt runout. I will be installing new rotors so will this matter at all?
2) Is it OK to have too much grease?
3) Should I be concerned with rotor runout when I am done. Everything is being replaced i.e. bearing stuff, rotors, calipers?
I cannot thank you guys enough. As soon as someone mentioned the removal or bearings and replacing them I just about ****. I am great with engines but never touched stuff like this.
I wish you were close by so I could buy you guys some beer.
Anyway, thanks again, but I do have a few more questions.
1) The article and what Pete said to mark the hub to prevennt runout. I will be installing new rotors so will this matter at all?
2) Is it OK to have too much grease?
3) Should I be concerned with rotor runout when I am done. Everything is being replaced i.e. bearing stuff, rotors, calipers?
2) No, grease expands with heat - you need some air space. Use a good quality grease - Mobil1 synthetic or Valvoline synthetic.
3) The runout should be checked if possible just to make sure everything is ok. If you use good quality parts and have properly set up your (front) wheel bearings, more than likely you will be ok. If you have a Harbor Freight near you you can get a dial caliper and magnetic base for cheap. Not a "proffessional" instrument by any means but others have posted that they work well enough and are accurate.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Lantana TX
1) No, If I understand correctly, that is to make sure the old rotor goes back on the hub in the same orientation, exactly like it came off. Helps to maintain the correct run-out on the rotor (if it was ok to begin with)
2) No, grease expands with heat - you need some air space. Use a good quality grease - Mobil1 synthetic or Valvoline synthetic.
3) The runout should be checked if possible just to make sure everything is ok. If you use good quality parts and have properly set up your (front) wheel bearings, more than likely you will be ok. If you have a Harbor Freight near you you can get a dial caliper and magnetic base for cheap. Not a "proffessional" instrument by any means but others have posted that they work well enough and are accurate.
2) No, grease expands with heat - you need some air space. Use a good quality grease - Mobil1 synthetic or Valvoline synthetic.
3) The runout should be checked if possible just to make sure everything is ok. If you use good quality parts and have properly set up your (front) wheel bearings, more than likely you will be ok. If you have a Harbor Freight near you you can get a dial caliper and magnetic base for cheap. Not a "proffessional" instrument by any means but others have posted that they work well enough and are accurate.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
Good luck There are a lot of people on this forum that can help if you have questions.
One last thing, are you doing this yourself? If so, bleeding the brakes on a C-3 can be a real PITA. Check out a Motive brand brake bleeder. Makes bleeding C-3 brakes easy. Do a search on this forum for information and tips to use it. A lot of different vendors and parts houses sell them. Well worth the money for the aggravation it will save you.
There are a lot of people on this forum that can help if you have questions. One last thing, are you doing this yourself? If so, bleeding the brakes on a C-3 can be a real PITA. Check out a Motive brand brake bleeder. Makes bleeding C-3 brakes easy. Do a search on this forum for information and tips to use it. A lot of different vendors and parts houses sell them. Well worth the money for the aggravation it will save you.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Lantana TX
Good luck There are a lot of people on this forum that can help if you have questions.
One last thing, are you doing this yourself? If so, bleeding the brakes on a C-3 can be a real PITA. Check out a Motive brand brake bleeder. Makes bleeding C-3 brakes easy. Do a search on this forum for information and tips to use it. A lot of different vendors and parts houses sell them. Well worth the money for the aggravation it will save you.
There are a lot of people on this forum that can help if you have questions. One last thing, are you doing this yourself? If so, bleeding the brakes on a C-3 can be a real PITA. Check out a Motive brand brake bleeder. Makes bleeding C-3 brakes easy. Do a search on this forum for information and tips to use it. A lot of different vendors and parts houses sell them. Well worth the money for the aggravation it will save you.
Anyway yes I will be doing it myself. I bought a Motive bleeder, but it will nto work on the MC as I have a Willwood and it will not fit over the top of it, which sucks!!!After 2 months on stands it better work.
later,
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Formerly DFW Missing Texas Now in NJ
Whiplash
