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control arm bushing torque

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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 11:20 PM
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Default control arm bushing torque

What posotion should the control arms be in to torque to (45# to 55# per this forum archive ??) Car jacked up or of jacks. Currently engine is out and I wanted to finish the front end work while I'm waiting for engine to get back from the machine shop.
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 11:33 PM
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You should wait until you have the engine back in the car and full weight on wheels before final torque of those bolts or you will preload the bushings.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 02:41 PM
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Yes, don't torque the arms until the car's wheels are on the ground. Doing so before hand will result in damaged bushings.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 02:54 PM
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For rubber OE type CA bushings that's quite true ...
... but if poly urethane (like energy suspension brand) it's AOK to torque em on bench etc.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 03:45 PM
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and if you use poly bushings, make sure to see thread sealant - I think red (and not blue) IIRC. I'd also verify after a while they are still tight. After checking mine, one was loose - I'd hate to think what would happen if the nut loosened out .
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 03:46 PM
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I torqued one side with the car up but will loosen before I let it down. I hope I didn't screw them up!
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 03:49 PM
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You can't hurt them if the car is still in the air, it's when you lower it that it puts a rotational preload on them.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 03:50 PM
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They are OEM rubber bushings. The springs are a lot of fun to get back in. Any one have a good way as I have one side to go yet?
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 03:56 PM
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Just make sure you are putting the tight coiled end in first, seat it well into the upper pocket and with the lower arm all the way down try to get that spring started into the lower arm. Not sure if this is technically correct, but I used a block of wood and a large hammer to knock the bottom into place.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 04:07 PM
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From: Working on the car NY
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My method is to seat the lower first and (no kidding) then kick the top in, hoping it won't pop out. Sometimes it works real good. If it doesn't and again being careful, seat the bottom and try to prop the top in with a bar.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 01:11 PM
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I built a a bracket as i saw in the chasis manual for my 69 and put it on hydralic jack to lift lower a arm up then used the racheting kind of tie down straps to keep a arm in line to line up blot hole the spring didnt seem to be a problem this way i could slowly line up everything with out slippage took about 45min a side but im slow
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TWINRAY
and if you use poly bushings, make sure to see thread sealant - I think red (and not blue) IIRC. I'd also verify after a while they are still tight. After checking mine, one was loose - I'd hate to think what would happen if the nut loosened out .
i had one come all the way out on mine had to get it flat beded home scres me to think of what could of happend to me and the car if i hadn't caught it when i did be sure to put thard lock and ck them after first ride

Last edited by 69small block; Jan 3, 2008 at 08:37 PM. Reason: more
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 09:06 PM
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I fought the first side but on the other side I used a harbor freight out side spring compressor, clamped the spring down below the top coil and above the bottom coil, and then I wired the spring in that position (8 to 10 wraps on at least two sides). this kept the spring partialy compresed . It went in with much less trouble than the first side but be carefull as there is a lot of spring pressure if something lets loose!
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