Front suspension Work(bearings,shocks, & spring)
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 8
From: Illinois
Front suspension Work(bearings,shocks, & spring)
I can't seem to get the front bearings races out. I'm afraid to pound too hard on them in fear of damaging something. Does it make any different which one you remove first? I see the cutout area to punch them but how hard do you have to pound on them? What is the best device to force them out with? Next I plan on replacing the shocks and last the springs (I purchased a spring compresser from VBP). Any suggestions on does and don't. Thanks Paul
Pro
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 593
Likes: 0
From: Warrenville IL
For the races I used a punch in the cutout area. Work both sides evenly. I'm not sure how much damage you can really do at the begining. Keep in mind if you scrape the sides in those cutouts to get it started you will cover the scrapes over with the new races.
For the springs I rented a compressor from Autozone. It was of the style that has two swinging hooks on one end, threaded through a long rod with a forked foot that slides on. I disgarded the foot and turned the whole thing upside down threading the rod downward through the upper shock mount. I then compressed the spring upwards against the upper shock mount and undid the lower control arm from the frame, swung it out of the way and slowly released the spring. I did the same to install but had to hammer a little to slide the spring back into the a-arm pocket as I released it.
For the springs I rented a compressor from Autozone. It was of the style that has two swinging hooks on one end, threaded through a long rod with a forked foot that slides on. I disgarded the foot and turned the whole thing upside down threading the rod downward through the upper shock mount. I then compressed the spring upwards against the upper shock mount and undid the lower control arm from the frame, swung it out of the way and slowly released the spring. I did the same to install but had to hammer a little to slide the spring back into the a-arm pocket as I released it.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
You should use a brass drift to knock the races out. Brass is softer and it won't damage anything in the hub. You can pick one up at most parts houses. It doesn't matter which one you knock out first. You do have to smack them pretty good, and yes on the cut out area you mentioned, so you'll need a heavy hammer. You'll also need race driver to install the new races. Your parts store should also have a set of these. As far as the other items you want to replace, it sounds like you need a GM shop manual for your car to help you along with repairs. Check Ebay. You shouldn't be without one. Good luck! 
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
It's a good idea to place the rotor on a couple of 2x4's to absorb the hit and so that you don't damage the inside rotor surface when removing the inner race or the wheel stud threads when doing the opposite side.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,695
Likes: 270
From: New York
I just did it. You already have some good advice.
As mentioned, I would put a board or 2X4 underneath the hub to protect it.
I started with a small hammer and will recommend of those bigger hammers that look like mini sledge hammers. It worked much better. They will come out with time and patience. Just start tapping one of the cutouts you mentioned. A few taps and move on to the next one. One thing that always amazed me is how hard the metal is. You hammer the heck out of it and it looks perfect.
To a point, you can use the old race to install the new one.
BTW after all this work, don’t cut cost. Buy a good quality bearing like Timken. I am sure others can bring up other good brands. If you want proof of quality, take a Timken in you hand and a cheapo bearing. The Timken will weight twice as much.
As mentioned, I would put a board or 2X4 underneath the hub to protect it.
I started with a small hammer and will recommend of those bigger hammers that look like mini sledge hammers. It worked much better. They will come out with time and patience. Just start tapping one of the cutouts you mentioned. A few taps and move on to the next one. One thing that always amazed me is how hard the metal is. You hammer the heck out of it and it looks perfect.
To a point, you can use the old race to install the new one.
BTW after all this work, don’t cut cost. Buy a good quality bearing like Timken. I am sure others can bring up other good brands. If you want proof of quality, take a Timken in you hand and a cheapo bearing. The Timken will weight twice as much.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
You should use a brass drift to knock the races out. Brass is softer and it won't damage anything in the hub. You can pick one up at most parts houses. It doesn't matter which one you knock out first. You do have to smack them pretty good, and yes on the cut out area you mentioned, so you'll need a heavy hammer. You'll also need race driver to install the new races. Your parts store should also have a set of these. As far as the other items you want to replace, it sounds like you need a GM shop manual for your car to help you along with repairs. Check Ebay. You shouldn't be without one. Good luck!
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I just did it. You already have some good advice.
As mentioned, I would put a board or 2X4 underneath the hub to protect it.
I started with a small hammer and will recommend of those bigger hammers that look like mini sledge hammers. It worked much better. They will come out with time and patience. Just start tapping one of the cutouts you mentioned. A few taps and move on to the next one. One thing that always amazed me is how hard the metal is. You hammer the heck out of it and it looks perfect.
To a point, you can use the old race to install the new one.
BTW after all this work, don’t cut cost. Buy a good quality bearing like Timken. I am sure others can bring up other good brands. If you want proof of quality, take a Timken in you hand and a cheapo bearing. The Timken will weight twice as much.
As mentioned, I would put a board or 2X4 underneath the hub to protect it.
I started with a small hammer and will recommend of those bigger hammers that look like mini sledge hammers. It worked much better. They will come out with time and patience. Just start tapping one of the cutouts you mentioned. A few taps and move on to the next one. One thing that always amazed me is how hard the metal is. You hammer the heck out of it and it looks perfect.
To a point, you can use the old race to install the new one.
BTW after all this work, don’t cut cost. Buy a good quality bearing like Timken. I am sure others can bring up other good brands. If you want proof of quality, take a Timken in you hand and a cheapo bearing. The Timken will weight twice as much.
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,695
Likes: 270
From: New York
I feel for wallifishrmn. He probably feels he could use some explosives to get the races out.
I'll have to remember that "Drill" Hammer. Also good when using a fork to remove tie rods and ball joints
Last edited by cottoneg; Dec 28, 2007 at 03:20 PM.