Differential side yoke end play specs?

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Nov 29, 2001 | 07:30 PM

#21

45ACP

Melting Slicks

Joined: Apr 2000

Posts: 3,341

Likes: 6

Re: (gtr1999)

Quote:

45- another question. I have a Bpt and KO Lee surface grinder in my shop so I can go either way. I'm thinking that I don't have to build up the full diameter of the yoke,just enough to bottom of the splines. I think that will give it enough support. What do you think?
The only thing I don't have access to is a welder, so I'll have to bring it to a local guy to weld.
Thanks,
Gary
(former Bpt service tech)

Yup, just cover the end out to the roots of the splines. There is no meaningful benefit to also building up the spline tooth ends, too. Besides, you'd need to get in there and clean up the teeth with a die grinder in order to get the thing to mate up properly. Big waste of time, for sure.

You find some guy like you are talking about who welds for a living and he'll have noooo problem understanding what you are trying to accomplish + plus he'll know enough not to make a mess of the teeth.

Nov 29, 2001 | 10:47 PM

#22

WATTAC

Racer

Joined: Dec 1999

Posts: 485

Likes: 0

From: MESA, AZ, USA

Re: (MIKER)

My info was from Bair rebuilders. And they wouldn't say exactly because as far as I can tell Chevy never said what the spec was. Use new yokes and new center pin and get what they got ya. It really doesn't matter much, because as was mentioned the yoke generally rides on the pin. But if the wear is too great then you can't adjust the camber and the yoke tends to move in and out of the differential, again no problem until the yoke wears so much that the keeper clip falls off. Chevy really didn't care as long as the camber could be adjusted. And if the C clip fell off no one would care until someone pulled on the yoke or the clip caught up in the differeintial gears. Basically Chevy didn't care because it didn't matter much and it couldn't be controlled due to yoke/differential/bearings differences. It's just suppose to be small enough to allow for setting the camber and still allow for the C clip on the yoke inside the differential. Sorry if I "ruffled some feathers" by saying 0.010 to 0.020. This is really just a general range. A little bigger or a little smaller won't hurt.

Andy

Nov 30, 2001 | 12:09 AM

#23

Fleetwood

Pro

Joined: Aug 1999

Posts: 749

Likes: 0

From: Perth,Western Australia,Australia

Re: (WATTAC)

WATTAC,I have read other posts on this forum that have implied that if the 'C' clip comes off,you run the risk of the wheel & swing arm assembly coming off & damaging the car.I have play on the one yoke,posibly a 1/16in. so from what you say if the clip came off,all that can happen is the camber would be out causing tire wear?

Nov 30, 2001 | 12:23 AM

#24

MIKER

Thread Starter

Melting Slicks

Joined: Oct 1999

Posts: 2,581

Likes: 14

From: Tolar Texas

Re: Differential side yoke end play specs? (Ingar, Norway)

Quote:

I'm not sure if rotating the pin is a solution. This because the pin rotates freely and most probably will find a resting position at the point of wear.

Your right, rotating the pin is NOT an option! I'm learning as I go with this project. Based on the wear pattern, I first believed that this pin did not rotate but IT IS SUPPOSED TO ROTATE!
I will replace the pin with a new one. The measured amount of wear on my pin was 0.025 One side is worn slightly more than the other but if you simply split this value in half, that makes up for MOST of the end play that I had initially recorded! So as of now, I'm guessing that replacing the pin will reduce the end play from the initial ~0.015 - 0.014 on each side to somewhere around ~0.003 - 0.005 (I believe that this is good enough)
Do you guys agree with this assumption???
I will still check the ends of the ends of the inner yoke shafts for hardness but now I do not plan on replacing them or performing any significant machine work on them.

Nov 30, 2001 | 12:40 AM

#25

Bluewasp

Race Director

Joined: Feb 2001

Posts: 13,913

Likes: 101

From: Manassas VA

NoVa Events Coordinator

St. Jude Donor '14

Re: Differential side yoke end play specs? (MIKER)

HI,

I just read this thread and I need some help with my 80 differential. I have NEVER rebuilt a differential in my life. First time I have taken the cover off of one. You might be asking why I would take the cover off. Well, my yokes that connect to the half shafts move in and out a lot. I am not sure how to measure the distance since you guys are talking about .00010, but they made the clanking sound as I went down the road. Also I could move the rear wheels by pushing in the half shafts and it made the same noise that I heard when I drive on the road. You will see some pictures of my differential. Tell me what you think... thanks.

Someone told me make sure the c clips are installed but I can't seem to find the c clips as shown in the picture I have. Also, what are the torque specs for the cover bolts and for the 4 bolts and seem to bolt the bracket that goes around the yokes.

Robert

[Modified by Bluewasp, 11:45 PM 11/29/2001]

Nov 30, 2001 | 12:51 AM

#26

MIKER

Thread Starter

Melting Slicks

Joined: Oct 1999

Posts: 2,581

Likes: 14

From: Tolar Texas

Re: (WATTAC)

WATTAC:

Quote:

Andy, I'm sorry if you felt that my "feathers were ruffled". Nothing could be further from the truth man, I truly appreciate the input. I was simply asking for reference to the source of your information because I couldn't find it ANYWHERE. I am now totally convinced of the fact that this specification is absolutely NOT documented ANYWHERE!
I also spoke with Mark, one of Bair's rebuilders on the phone today. He told me the same thing, ~0.010 - ~0.020 is OK. He also said that he had never seen this spec documented anywhere either.
My shafts would have to wear at least another 3/32" before the snap rings could actually "fall off"!
Again, thanks for the input Andy. :seeya