Trailing arm bolt removal
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 535
Likes: 1
From: Darwin, Australia NT
Trailing arm bolt removal
Ive searched this subject and found I have to cut the bolts out with a rotary saw (just bought one with bosch 8" 18pi blades, I couldnt get a carbide blade.).
Do I remove the shims first? If so how (1970), the shims can rotate, do they have slotted holes for the bolt, do they have to be bashed in later at reinstal or does the bolt pass through them. I cant see anything retaining them if they are slotted.
Do I try and cut through the small bit of exposed rubber bush if the shims dont come out before cutting.
Is it easiest to remobe the caliper to get extra room for the saw.
Do I remove the shims first? If so how (1970), the shims can rotate, do they have slotted holes for the bolt, do they have to be bashed in later at reinstal or does the bolt pass through them. I cant see anything retaining them if they are slotted.
Do I try and cut through the small bit of exposed rubber bush if the shims dont come out before cutting.
Is it easiest to remobe the caliper to get extra room for the saw.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
i assume that you mean reciprocating saw, not rotary.
remove the shims, and just cut the bolt where the shims were. if the blt rotates, put a wrench on the nut or head. get good saw blades, milwakee or blue mol, and you'll cut thru the bolts in about 30 seconds. the shims have slots that the bolt passes thru, and there should be a giant cotter pin at the end that passes thru the trailing arm to hold them in. remove the cotter pin, pry the end up, put a crow bar next to the bolt and pry the sides apart just enough to free the shims.
jeff
remove the shims, and just cut the bolt where the shims were. if the blt rotates, put a wrench on the nut or head. get good saw blades, milwakee or blue mol, and you'll cut thru the bolts in about 30 seconds. the shims have slots that the bolt passes thru, and there should be a giant cotter pin at the end that passes thru the trailing arm to hold them in. remove the cotter pin, pry the end up, put a crow bar next to the bolt and pry the sides apart just enough to free the shims.
jeff
Last edited by jnb5101; Jan 5, 2008 at 08:17 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: eaton rapids mi
Take pictures before you start since you will want to re-install the shims same way they came out. I went with the stainless shims since in all likelihood you will destroy a shim or 2 trying to remove them. Once removed cutting off the bolt will take only minutes.
When i did mine the caliper was removed.
When you re-install the hardest part will be replacing that pesky bolt, make sure you have extra long needle pliers and lots of patience.
When i did mine the caliper was removed.
When you re-install the hardest part will be replacing that pesky bolt, make sure you have extra long needle pliers and lots of patience.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
You do not want carbide tipped recip blades. You will destroy the carbide with all the vibration and bouncing around. A carbide grit will work but will take forever. Get yourself some good bimetal blades, preferebly Lenox since I have worked for Lenox for 23 years but any good bimetal blade will do. A 14 or 18 tpi will do the job. A little cutting oil will not hurt either.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 0
From: Reno NV
St. Jude Donor '08
You do not want carbide tipped recip blades. You will destroy the carbide with all the vibration and bouncing around. A carbide grit will work but will take forever. Get yourself some good bimetal blades, preferebly Lenox since I have worked for Lenox for 23 years but any good bimetal blade will do. A 14 or 18 tpi will do the job. A little cutting oil will not hurt either.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 893
Likes: 7
From: Orange Park Florida
I just replaced the TA bushings on my '72. I sprayed penetrating oil on the bolts/bushings/nuts and let it soak overnight. I removed the nuts and then used a long pry bar and tapped on the bolt heads. Bolts came out and I dropped the arms. I then used a saw to cut out the bushings and sleeves. Get a long pair of needle-nose pliers, grease the new bolts, and they should go in easily. Be sure the bolts will slide in the bushings while the TA in out of the car. It takes time and patience. Also, when pressing in the new bushings, be sure to use the beveled washers on the sleeves as they eliminate any obstruction while installing the shims.
Jim
Jim
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 535
Likes: 1
From: Darwin, Australia NT
i assume that you mean reciprocating saw, not rotary.
remove the shims, and just cut the bolt where the shims were. if the blt rotates, put a wrench on the nut or head. get good saw blades, milwakee or blue mol, and you'll cut thru the bolts in about 30 seconds. the shims have slots that the bolt passes thru, and there should be a giant cotter pin at the end that passes thru the trailing arm to hold them in. remove the cotter pin, pry the end up, put a crow bar next to the bolt and pry the sides apart just enough to free the shims.
jeff
remove the shims, and just cut the bolt where the shims were. if the blt rotates, put a wrench on the nut or head. get good saw blades, milwakee or blue mol, and you'll cut thru the bolts in about 30 seconds. the shims have slots that the bolt passes thru, and there should be a giant cotter pin at the end that passes thru the trailing arm to hold them in. remove the cotter pin, pry the end up, put a crow bar next to the bolt and pry the sides apart just enough to free the shims.
jeff
The shims wouldnt come out because the bolt passed through a hole not a slot. And there is no hole in the trailing arm for a cotter pin. There must be differences between the years, mine is a 1970. Thin shims had rusted through in to bits.
After lots of penetrating oil I was able to drive the bolt out, lets hope the other side will do the same.
As there is no hole in the trailing arm to hold the cotter pin and new shims will be slotted, how will I retain them?
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
simmo
the reason the newer shims have slots is to make it easier to add/remove shims to get proper alignment. if ther isn't a hole for the cotter pin, you can drill a hole thru the kick up of the frame. jack up the rear of the car, and support with jack stands. remove wheels, and use a jack under the spring bolt to raise the trailing arm a couple inches ( this makes it easy to drill the holes needed for the cotter pin). install the shims and push the end down into the "pocket" as far as posible. determine wher the retaining holes on the shims are located and use a right angle drill with a normal length bit to drill the outboard side of the kick up right thru the shim hole. then change to a 6" length bit to drill thru the inboard side. watch the brake lines that are near the inside surface of the kick up. this can all be done without a lot of trouble. had to do this on my 70.
jeff
the reason the newer shims have slots is to make it easier to add/remove shims to get proper alignment. if ther isn't a hole for the cotter pin, you can drill a hole thru the kick up of the frame. jack up the rear of the car, and support with jack stands. remove wheels, and use a jack under the spring bolt to raise the trailing arm a couple inches ( this makes it easy to drill the holes needed for the cotter pin). install the shims and push the end down into the "pocket" as far as posible. determine wher the retaining holes on the shims are located and use a right angle drill with a normal length bit to drill the outboard side of the kick up right thru the shim hole. then change to a 6" length bit to drill thru the inboard side. watch the brake lines that are near the inside surface of the kick up. this can all be done without a lot of trouble. had to do this on my 70.
jeff
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 535
Likes: 1
From: Darwin, Australia NT
Thanks for all the help.
The second bolt is not being helpful, so Im expecting to have to soak it for a week.
Close inspection of the first bolt showed it had stuck from corosion where the shims contacted the bolt and the bolt surface was ok at the bush face, The nickle cad plate was still good where it contacted the bush.
Yes an air hammer might be the go but the wife is spewing on me getting the saw. Good thing she doesnt know about the 533 and TKO600 I have bought to go in!
The second bolt is not being helpful, so Im expecting to have to soak it for a week.
Close inspection of the first bolt showed it had stuck from corosion where the shims contacted the bolt and the bolt surface was ok at the bush face, The nickle cad plate was still good where it contacted the bush.
Yes an air hammer might be the go but the wife is spewing on me getting the saw. Good thing she doesnt know about the 533 and TKO600 I have bought to go in!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 893
Likes: 7
From: Orange Park Florida
On my '72 the shims have a hole at one end (for the small bolt that holds them in the frame) and a slot that allows the shim to slide over the TA bolt for adjustment. There is a small hole in the frame that the small bolt (1/4 inch) is inserted through and goes through all of the shims after alignment. Sounds like a previous mechanic/owner used the wrong shims, or, placed them in backwards.
Jim
Jim
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 5
From: Minnesota
Sounds like you've discovered the most difficult aspect of the old Corvette hobby. No, not frozen T/A bolts but wives with no interest until the bill comes.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
On my '72 the shims have a hole at one end (for the small bolt that holds them in the frame) and a slot that allows the shim to slide over the TA bolt for adjustment. There is a small hole in the frame that the small bolt (1/4 inch) is inserted through and goes through all of the shims after alignment. Sounds like a previous mechanic/owner used the wrong shims, or, placed them in backwards.
Jim
Jim
2) There should be a long, thick cotter pin retaining the shims, not a bolt.
