New brake lines: stainless or not?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 5
From: South of London, Engerland
New brake lines: stainless or not?
Should I use stainless when replacing the brake lines on my chassis?
People talk about leaks with stainless. Would new junction blocks prevent leaks? Is there anything I can do to minimise the chances of a leak?
('76 and the body is already off
Main reason for using stainless is, I guess, cosmetic.)
People talk about leaks with stainless. Would new junction blocks prevent leaks? Is there anything I can do to minimise the chances of a leak?
('76 and the body is already off
Main reason for using stainless is, I guess, cosmetic.)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
Likes: 3
From: Kingston Ontario
When referring to leaks with stainless tubing it is normally caused by flared fitting of the stainless which is harder than the normal steel tubing, and requires more pressure to initially seal. There is no operational benefit to using the stainless, just looks better longer. 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 4
From: Va
I used stainless lines and new blocks and only one minor leak which I eventually resolved by carefully continuing to torque it down(that was at the proportioning valve (the valve was a reconditioned part since they are not available new so that was probably the problem not the s.s. lines. The procedure I used for the whole car was to first torque the lines down and then back-off and then re-torqued and inspected closely.
Now I have no worries about lines rusting.
The s.s. is harder to work with than the tin bundy o.e.m lines as far as tweaking the bends if they don't exactly line up. All things considered it's worth the extra work.
I purchased mine from http://www.classictube.com/faqs.asp , they tech support was excellent.
Now I have no worries about lines rusting.
The s.s. is harder to work with than the tin bundy o.e.m lines as far as tweaking the bends if they don't exactly line up. All things considered it's worth the extra work.
I purchased mine from http://www.classictube.com/faqs.asp , they tech support was excellent.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,331
Likes: 479
From: Appleton Wisconsin
The stainless will always look good, I restored a 57 chev years ago with steel lines and switched to SS 5 years later cause it started to get stains. I put SS on a 70 vette 3years ago, never had any leaks. If your going to keep the car I would go with the SS.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 8
From: Illinois
Redoing all the brake lines on my 71. As long as I'm doing it I went with SS, all new blocks, clips, bolts, and flexible lines. Also silicone fluid. Don't want to have to ever do it again. Only thing I didn't replace was the proportioning valve.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 14
From: Airdrie Alberta
stainless isn't that much more, and it'll last longer then regular lines. Might as well if it's available.
After pulling all the rusted , broken lines off my car I decided stainless was the way to go and since I was doing a frame off it was a no brainer.
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
From: Guantanamo Bay, Cuba (home in Colorado Springs)
I'm going back with ALL stainless tubing for the brakes.
In the process of a body off now, so install will be much easier.
Have the new stainless steel sleved, o-ring calipers too. I may go back with a hydroboost.
In the process of a body off now, so install will be much easier.
Have the new stainless steel sleved, o-ring calipers too. I may go back with a hydroboost.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: shrewsbury Pa.
Should I use stainless when replacing the brake lines on my chassis?
People talk about leaks with stainless. Would new junction blocks prevent leaks? Is there anything I can do to minimise the chances of a leak?
('76 and the body is already off Main reason for using stainless is, I guess, cosmetic.)
People talk about leaks with stainless. Would new junction blocks prevent leaks? Is there anything I can do to minimise the chances of a leak?
('76 and the body is already off
Main reason for using stainless is, I guess, cosmetic.)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
I put s/s on my 69 and had plenty of leaks. As already stated, the harder s/s makes seating the flared line ends more difficult. Invest in a good line wrench and do the job without breaking the hex fastener. Harbor Freight wrenches won't work here.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
When referring to leaks with stainless tubing it is normally caused by flared fitting of the stainless which is harder than the normal steel tubing, and requires more pressure to initially seal. There is no operational benefit to using the stainless, just looks better longer.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 5
From: South of London, Engerland
Thank you all for your replies. 
I think I'll choose stainless and see how I get on. It sounds like using new junction blocks will minimise the risk of leaks, and I'll buy some good line wrenches to do it properly
I think I'll choose stainless and see how I get on. It sounds like using new junction blocks will minimise the risk of leaks, and I'll buy some good line wrenches to do it properly
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,318
Likes: 786
From: Redondo Beach, California
When you order the SS lines, my suggestion is to ask that they be built with SS fasteners. Some SS lines are built with the soft steel fasteners which are more prone to knurl when tightening them up. I bought my SS lines with SS fittings from In-Line tubes (Michigan). I also bought a torque wrench and set of tubing crows foot attachments. This was probably overkill since handtightening worked just as well with me.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 5
From: South of London, Engerland
When you order the SS lines, my suggestion is to ask that they be built with SS fasteners. Some SS lines are built with the soft steel fasteners which are more prone to knurl when tightening them up. I bought my SS lines with SS fittings from In-Line tubes (Michigan). I also bought a torque wrench and set of tubing crows foot attachments. This was probably overkill since handtightening worked just as well with me.
I'm buying new brake junction blocks from Paragon so everything except the brake balance switch will be new.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 5
From: South of London, Engerland
Well, ClassicTube can't despatch anything for about 10 days (problems sourcing stainless tube 
) so I've ordered with InlineTube. Cost $30 more for stainless brake line fittings but they'll despatch quickly.
) so I've ordered with InlineTube. Cost $30 more for stainless brake line fittings but they'll despatch quickly.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
One of the main cause of leaks when using S/S tubing with flares is due to the flare nut to tubing contact gauling and subsequently binding before the flare is tight.
When assembling, place a dab/light coat of Anti-seize on the tube and flair (MUST keep it away from the inside of the flare). This will allow proper torquing of the flare nut, minimizing the possibility of leaks. You will still need to tighten them a bit more than the Steel parts, but this process will allow you to do so correctly.
When assembling, place a dab/light coat of Anti-seize on the tube and flair (MUST keep it away from the inside of the flare). This will allow proper torquing of the flare nut, minimizing the possibility of leaks. You will still need to tighten them a bit more than the Steel parts, but this process will allow you to do so correctly.
