This bearing is the same kind that are found on the front and rear shafts of an alternator. They usually have orange, black, or blue rubber discs pressed into both front and back, to keep dust out.

Today I decided to pull the dust shield rings off of an idler pulley bearing.

I cleaned it out it boy doe sit spin perfectly. I'm gonna put the dust shields back in, but need to know if these bearings are dry or if they have a grease or lubricant.

Thanks.

 

These bearings are loaded with a measured charge of grease from the factory.

Although you can remove the seals and repack with grease most people I know just replace them as they are generally cheap to buy and there is less hassle.

If you want to re-use it you can just use standard wheel bearing grease but don't pack it too tightly and try not to damage the lip of the seals.

Don't ever run the bearing dry - it won't last very long.

 

Ha ha I have no problem buying a new one, I was just messing around with it and wondered if it was a worth while task of rebuilding it. I had never opened one up and was just curious how they were lubed. It was pretty dry when I opened it up, but not so dry that it was at the point of failure. It spins perfectly now all cleaned out.

 

I'm not too worried about my idler pulley bearings, but what about the ones in the alternator that you said are similar? Can those be replaced? The reason I ask is that I think my aftermarket serpentine belt system must place a higher load on the alternator than the original serpentine system.

 

Yes some can be replace. The front bearings for sure, and some cases though have a rear bearing that's pressed in so hard it will crank the case when you press it out.

What style alt is it? CS130? There are two different bearing sizes I have seen in the CS130, and one is the same as what's found in an SI. Most parts stores carry them, you just have to ask, and have your bearing with you as a reference.

 

Advance Auto carries most of these bearings. There should be a number on the bearing (if not worn off) that can be used for replacement purposes. Also, if you have a local company dealing in bearings, you can call, give them the number, and they'll tell you if they carry it or not. As far as the rear alt. bearing, I've had pretty good luck pressing them in and out using a vice and properly sized sockets, one supporting the alt. casing and the other to force it in or out.

 

Cleaning and repacking is a far cry from rebuilding. Why mess around with a $5.00 part? The seals will still be worn as evidenced by the dry condition.

 

I agree with you, I'm just messing around with stuff in the garage and experimenting. Not really planning on using one. Oh, and here they list for around $15.

 

Very rarely I post much, yet this thread seems as important as cleaning the kitty litter box I keep under the power stearing unit. I guess this shows it would be worthy topic to open for us to discuss the texture and clumps consistancy along with the little furry carcasses.

Michael.

 

I disagree.

A fair question was asked and good answers were given.

What's the problem?

 

Was there a question sked about how to do this? I missed it, it certainly was not in this thread.

I have to agree with others, oiling a worn out bearing is like polishing a turd. When done, you are left with a shiny turd.

The cat litter information is more useful.

 

Question: (Minus ?)

Answer:

 

Who said the bearing was worn out?

Read the thread properly and you will see that a question was asked and an answer was given.

 

It's a CS144. I probably should check it annually - guess I'll look for looseness. I don't want to be stranded since my setup is so dependent on electricity.


Check that avatar. You don't want to mess with Bluey...

 

The front bearing of a CS is the easiest to change of the two. The pulley has to be removed, along with the fan, and then the case bolts. The back part of the case will pull out and take the rotor and stator with it. You will be left with the front case and front bearing. There will probably be a front bearing retainer clip that you will either have to unscrew or un-clip, and you can press the bearing out.

Take that bearing in to an Oreilly and have them match it. Then press it back in, and install. When tightening the case bolts get them all snug and make fractional turns to each case bolt while continually checking to see that the rotor still turns freely.

If any one of the bolts are over-tightened the shaft will bind the bearing and it will wear and fail faster. That's all there is to it.

 

You did:

"Don't ever run the bearing dry - it won't last very long"

Any more "questions"?

 

Seems to me that was 'friendly advice' not pertaining to the specific bearing I was working with but to these kinds of bearings in general.

The bearing I am messing with is not worn out. In fact there was nothing wrong with it but age and grime built up inside.

 

I think it's amazing they can sell these bearing for 15 bux, being as precision a product as they are, ground out by the mililions of individual ***** then in the keepers, then the races....

Years ago, north of Atlanta in Cummins? Co. Ga. I visited a ball bearing plant doint NDT work for the QC department....

very interesting how they made ball bearings....the equipment they used was made in **** Germany, still had the swastica on the side of it, cast into the frames, the plant occupied acres of room, had a fine mist of machine oil in the atomsphere above it, seen in the lights really well....

simply amazing process of grinding, more grinding, more grinding, more yet even over yet even....then polishing, then washing, then hardening, then polishing again, then washing, then began the QC inspection....the QC inspection gear was made in what was then commie dominated Chechoslovakia and parts were not available, and the whole plant depended on their machine shop to replace/make parts for the production gear on a as needed basis....the electronic probes and backup gear is what I was involved with....each ball got scanned 100% all over it's surface, took 1/2 second per ball, spat out onto a tray, 50 billion ***** all laying therein rows and columns reflecting like some outer space thing, in the super bright fluorescent lit room....

mostly women looked over the trays and picked out the bad ***** from the tray.....the QC manager could do it too.....damned if I could see any differance, they all looked alike, but they were trained to visually spot some defects in them.....this was the final test before shipping....

lotsa respect for that type production.....

another bearing plant in Shippensburg Pa....made bearing for earth moving gear....as in LARGE....another story another time...

 

That is so true.

In my years in the bearing industry I saw the manufacturing process at plants like Timken. It never ceased to amaze me how much went into the making of a simple bearing yet how cheaply they were sold.

 

Exactly Right

Thanks Durango.