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Differential front yoke... Is it bad ? I just pulled this yoke out and it has a dent in it by the weight on the outer rim.. I'm replacing the pinion seal that was leaking. Is it posible to bend that back a bit and reuse it ? Or should I just get a new one? Any help would be great !
It's basically just a dust cover for the seal, get it back in shape and you'll be good to go. It's probably not hurting anything as is just make sure it's not rubbing anywhere.
Thanks !!! That was what I was hoping to hear. I'm doing the job my self so I can save on some money... SO , I can have Mike ( a C3 guru mech. ) do some upgrades on the car. Thanks again for the fast response.
Are you doing the seal on the car?I have been thinking about doing mine and was wondering how hard of a job.My torq wrench is in ft.lbs. but i have read the nut is supposed to be 11-12 inch lbs.I am thinking thats converted to 1ft. lb.Good luck!
I have the on car procedure in a full thread on the other forum. It will help you. Witness mark it, trying to swing a TW in under the car is a PITA. You need a 0-30 in/lbs dial wrench as well. Used bearings will be in the 5 in/lbs range. You don't want to overload it and crush the sleeve anymore.
The nut is not tightened to inch pounds, the torque to turn the pinion is in inch pounds after the nut is torqued. The nut will need much more tightening than that. I can tell you, it is difficult to get any kind of accurate reading if the rear is in the car. The best way is to mark the nut and replace it where it was. If you didnt mark it, just tightening it up to somewhere in the 75-100 range and let it be. You should check it to make sure it is not binding the pinion, but usually this will work OK.
The nut is not tightened to inch pounds, the torque to turn the pinion is in inch pounds after the nut is torqued. The nut will need much more tightening than that. I can tell you, it is difficult to get any kind of accurate reading if the rear is in the car. The best way is to mark the nut and replace it where it was. If you didnt mark it, just tightening it up to somewhere in the 75-100 range and let it be. You should check it to make sure it is not binding the pinion, but usually this will work OK.
True, but the 0-30 in/lb I just bought has a memory needle which you set to zero and then turn the bearings...the needle stops at the amount of force you applied to turn them. It is extremely accurate - using a beam type torque wrench would be almost impossible to read accurately whether or not you are doing it on or off the car. Get the 0-30 in lb wrench - you won't be disappointed with it.
Last edited by stinger12; Jan 31, 2008 at 11:08 AM.
Sorry ,but didn't plan to high-jack this thread.Lots of good info.I always thought the nut was in.lbs. Didn't seem near enough torque.I had originally sent it to that place in Texas to get fixed twice and both times came back worse.I may try the witness mark method.Thanx
Sorry ,but didn't plan to high-jack this thread.Lots of good info.I always thought the nut was in.lbs. Didn't seem near enough torque.I had originally sent it to that place in Texas to get fixed twice and both times came back worse.I may try the witness mark method.Thanx
The nut is not tightened to inch pounds, the torque to turn the pinion is in inch pounds after the nut is torqued. The nut will need much more tightening than that. I can tell you, it is difficult to get any kind of accurate reading if the rear is in the car. The best way is to mark the nut and replace it where it was. If you didnt mark it, just tightening it up to somewhere in the 75-100 range and let it be. You should check it to make sure it is not binding the pinion, but usually this will work OK.
This is correct. Like I said trying to use a TW in the confined area under the car is tricky at best. The witness mark method is best or some guys measure from the pinion to the nut. You must reuse that old nut with #271 loctite.
Interesting note on torque loading. If you were fitting a solid shim then it is torqued to 125 ft/lbs like you would a rear spindle(100 ft/lbs) then the drag is checked in in/lbs. With a crush sleeve you crush it until you get into the range of drag required to preload the bearings.
If you have the diff out of the car, then again the drag is checked but the yoke nut is not torqued to a ft/lb spec, the interest is in the rotational drag.
If you removed the nut and didn't mark it, when reinstalling you can feel the nut/yoke bottom out and stop against the brg and crush sleeve. If you use an impact gun at this point then you can overcrush the sleeve and change the brg preload. Basically you want the yoke back where it was before, you're just replacing the seal.
Hope this clears it up.
This is correct. Like I said trying to use a TW in the confined area under the car is tricky at best. The witness mark method is best or some guys measure from the pinion to the nut. You must reuse that old nut with #271 loctite.
Interesting note on torque loading. If you were fitting a solid shim then it is torqued to 125 ft/lbs like you would a rear spindle(100 ft/lbs) then the drag is checked in in/lbs. With a crush sleeve you crush it until you get into the range of drag required to preload the bearings.
If you have the diff out of the car, then again the drag is checked but the yoke nut is not torqued to a ft/lb spec, the interest is in the rotational drag.
If you removed the nut and didn't mark it, when reinstalling you can feel the nut/yoke bottom out and stop against the brg and crush sleeve. If you use an impact gun at this point then you can overcrush the sleeve and change the brg preload. Basically you want the yoke back where it was before, you're just replacing the seal.
Hope this clears it up.
Yes,that clears up fine. Feel more confident now after talking with the pros.
go to it.
PS if you got a bad job from someplace then you should let them know. It happens once in a while but more then once?
They were told several times about the problem and several other issues ,like core refunds. Just got promises from the co.and checks in the mail and no return calls.There are several post from other members about them. After awhile it just gets too agravating.
I don't want to get into any trouble here.Fa.. Cor.....
why would you think you would get in trouble? the rules state you are allowed to post both good and BAD transactions.....If someone hasn`t treated you right you should alert us all so no one else has to deal with the aggravation....
redvetracr
why would you think you would get in trouble? the rules state you are allowed to post both good and BAD transactions.....If someone hasn`t treated you right you should alert us all so no one else has to deal with the aggravation....
redvetracr
I thought I read somewhere that too many complaints about about a co. would get you banned. There have been several negative posts about them which I added comments to . Since then they have changed their name.But I feel they are the same co.
I have the on car procedure in a full thread on the other forum. It will help you. Witness mark it, trying to swing a TW in under the car is a PITA. You need a 0-30 in/lbs dial wrench as well. Used bearings will be in the 5 in/lbs range. You don't want to overload it and crush the sleeve anymore.
GTR1999... I JUST WANT TO SAY THANKS !!! I fallowed you thread on the other forum and boy did it help ! It was still a pain to do on the car and I was working with Jack stands, so I didn't have much hight. The first problem I ran into was who ever did the last job on differential put the bolts in backwords on the rear/end carrier mount bracket. So it left no room to back the bolts out and they are about 6" long. I ended up cutting the bolts and then pusshing them through. It took for ever to cut those things ( harden steel ). Then, when I had the drive axle out I noticed one of the U-joints were stiff and and very hard to move. So I replaced those too. Putting it all back together was much easier untill I got to the rear/end carrier mount bracket. It took for ever to get those holes to line up. If you plan on doing this job on the car, take a look at GTR1999's thread... It was a great help. Here are a few pics. So far no leaks and I drove the car around today. Before hand it was leaking BIG TIME!
As you can see no room to back out 6" bolts.
I bought this pully at Autozone for 4.95... It worked great and was a good size for a tight fit.