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Is 2-1/2 years to soon for a battery to go dead..Or is it just because she has been sitting..I've had her garaged for ther past few months and the last couple of times I went to drive her she needed a jump to get her started n yesterday when I tried she was totolly dead...Time for a new battery or just a good charge...Thanx...Jerrylee///
No, 2 1/2 years is not too soon for a battery to go. Try a charge first as having the car just sitting will discharge the battery over time. After charging it, I would suggest putting a load test on it. Most parts houses will do this for you for free if you don't have the equipment.
If you buy a new battery, and it sits for long periods like the old one, consider getting a Battery Tender brand tender. You can unhook the battery while it sits in the car, and leave it with the tender on it, and always have a fresh healthy battery.
I have a couple that all they do is sit most of the time. I usually just unhook the battery while they sit. Lately I have been putting battery disconnect switches in so I dont have to fool with it. I always try and start them all at least once a month and run them for a half hour or so, keeps them charged up, fluids cycled, etc.
I have 4 Corvettes that I seldom drive on a regular basis. One battery lasted for over 7 years, get over 5 years on batterys. All top line Delco batterys. My two C3's are the easiest to disconnect, I just disconnect the ground cable from under the drivers side where it connects to the frame with a 5/8 inch bolt head when I park the car and it is not going to be used. The batterys keeps their charge although I do charge about once a month and always before driving the cars. My two C4's have battery tenders connected all the time.
Buy a new battery and also a float charger, your battery will always be ready when you are... also... a damaged battery that won't fully charge will overheat any type of charger and may either explode or cause a fire... If your cars in your garage do it right and be safe...
Thanx for all the replies....The battery tender is out as there is no electricity where she stays....I was looking into the disconnect switch.....I guess I'll just have to get a new battery n just drive her more.....Winter is almost gone-what little we got......Thanx again....Jerrylee///
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by jerrylee
Thanx for all the replies....The battery tender is out as there is no electricity where she stays....I was looking into the disconnect switch.....I guess I'll just have to get a new battery n just drive her more.....Winter is almost gone-what little we got......Thanx again....Jerrylee///
Whats up killer
depending on the battery in question and the size i would say it depends. I used to have the same problem, now when out of use i just pull the neg terminal, and for the last two seasons when i go out to warm it up and run it, when ive hooked the bat, and Great ***** Of Fire it has started the old beast. I have an 850 CCA bat for the last two years from pep boys and so far so good, last started tw weeks ago after sitting for 2 months
Update.....After work I jumped her n went for a cruise about 45 min. n noticed as I was driving my volts dropped to 10 when foot is off the gas n when I hit the switch for the electric windows all the dash lights got dim n my tack started bouncing up n down....Finally when I got home I shut her down n tried to start her back up n no luck dead as hell.....Does this sound like the alt. or not ...My alt. is 2 1/2 years old by the way...Thanx...Jerrylee///
If you want to know more about batteries that the average car owner, go to this web site and check it out. It will not only increase the life of any battery you own (mostly through increased knowledge) but make you a much more informed consumer. http://www.batteryfaq.org/
Here is just a clip from one of the most common causes of premature battery failure...
16.2. How do I prevent permanent sulfation?
The best way to prevent sulfation is to keep a lead-acid battery fully charged because lead sulfate is not formed. This can be accomplished in three ways. Based on the battery type you are using, the best solution is to use an external charger in a well ventilated area that is capable of delivering a continuous, temperature compensated "float" charge at the battery manufacturer's recommended float or maintenance voltage for a fully charged battery. For 12-volt batteries, depending on the battery type, usually have fixed float voltages between 13.1 VDC and 13.9 VDC, measured at 80° F (26.7° C) with an accurate (.5% or better) digital voltmeter. [For a six-volt battery, measured voltages are one half of those for a 12-volt battery.] This can best be accomplished by continuously charging using a three-stage for AGM (Ca/Ca) or Gel Cell (Ca/Ca) VRLA batteries or four stage for wet (flooded) batteries, "smart" microprocessor controlled charger. If you already have a two-stage charger, then use a voltage-regulated "float" charger or battery "maintainer", set at the correct temperature compensated float voltage to "float" or maintain a fully charged battery. If you need Web addresses or telephone numbers of charger manufacturers, please see the Chargers and Float Chargers and Battery Maintainers sections of Battery Information Links List. A cheap, unregulated "trickle" or a manual two-stage charger can overcharge a battery and destroy it by drying out the electrolyte.
A second method is to periodically recharge the battery when the State-of-Charge drops to 80% or below. Maintaining a high State-of-Charge tends to prevent irreversible permanent sulfation. The frequency of recharging depends on the parasitic load, temperature, battery's condition, and battery type. Lower temperatures slow down electrochemical reactions and higher temperatures will significantly increase them. A battery stored at 95° F (35° C) will self-discharge twice as fast than one stored at 77° F (25° C). Standard (Sb/Sb) batteries have a very high self-discharge rate; whereas, AGM (Ca/Ca) and Gel Cell (Ca/Ca) VRLA batteries have very low rates. Please see Section 7.1 for more information on battery types.
There is so much more information at this site it will take hours to absorb all of it...
If your car did not start after you drove it for that amount of time either the alternator is not charging the battery, or the battery will not hold a charge.
On a similar problem with my 75 I ended up taking the battery out and having it recharged/reconditioned. Then I put it back in with a battery tender unit that will perform a disconnect when the battery sees voltage below a certain amount. Since that time I have not had issues starting the 75.
Priority Start
Guarantees Battery Power For Starting
Saves Your Battery
Simple Installation - 3 Easy Connections
Offers Security, Safety & Peace of Mind
Priority Start is a patented computerized device that monitors battery power when the ignition switch is off. If it detects excess voltage drain - due to lights left on, door ajar, radio on, even short circuits - it automatically disconnects the load. When the headlights are turned on, it automatically reconnects the battery and your car starts. There are no buttons, switches or hood to raise to reconnect. Priority Start is backed by a 3-year warranty. Priority Start fits both side post and top post batteries - all mounting hardware included.
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by jerrylee
Thanx...But I also want to know why the dash lights went dim when I hit the window switch....Jerrylee///
might be the voltage regulator has gobn bad in the alternator either way sounds due for a test. any pep boys will diagnose you alt or whole charging system if you dont know how.
but suffice it to say if you have a volt meter, you should see 14.4 volts charging across the batt with the engine running