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Leaf Spring vs Mono

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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 08:47 AM
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Default Leaf Spring vs Mono

I was sold a mono leaf to replace my wore out old leaf. The mono leaf jacked the car up so much that the rear of the car looks noticeable higher then stock. I'm being told that it's the right spring.
How do I check that the car is at stock height?
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 09:25 AM
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If you provided some info on your car, someone might be able to help you.....

The AIM ( Assembly Instruction Manual ) for your particular year will have the details.
If you've got a 68, I can help out.
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 09:57 AM
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I have an 81 and replaced my 9 leaf w a composite mono leaf. I love it. You should be able to adjust the ride height by adjusting the rear spring mounting bolts. By running the the nuts down on the bolts, you can lower the rear of the car. If there is not enough thread, get longer bolts. I believe they come in three lenghths. Original are 6.5 " VBP sells them in 8,10 and 12 lenghths. You have reached the correct ride height when your rear half shafts are horizontal (parallel to the ground).

Hope that helps, at least thats what I've been through w mine.
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by frank24
I have an 81 and replaced my 9 leaf w a composite mono leaf. I love it. You should be able to adjust the ride height by adjusting the rear spring mounting bolts. By running the the nuts down on the bolts, you can lower the rear of the car. If there is not enough thread, get longer bolts. I believe they come in three lenghths. Original are 6.5 " VBP sells them in 8,10 and 12 lenghths. You have reached the correct ride height when your rear half shafts are horizontal (parallel to the ground).

Hope that helps, at least thats what I've been through w mine.
I agree. Check the ride height and lower the rear by back off the spring bolts on each end of the spring until it's within specs. If the bolts aren't long enough, purchase some longer ones. Very simple process. Good luck.
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 11:33 AM
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Just make sure you buy Grade 8 bolts.



Rick B.
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 01:11 PM
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Long bolts will work but keep in mind that a 10" and longer bolt will be below the edge of the rim and if you have a tire go flat, the bolt end will hit the road and quite possibly do some damage.

Also you run the risk of the end of the mono leaf being too close for comfort with the tire sidewall.

I'm having just this issue with the rear of my 68 being too high. It has a TRW mono leaf which will be coming out and a VB&P mono leaf will be replacing it.
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 02:40 PM
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Adjusting the ride height by changing the trailing arm to spring bolt length is the principal technique. The fiberglass spring kits come with thick rubber cushions (~ 1 1/2 Inch) for joining the bolt to the trailing arm. You can get thinner cushions (~ 3/8 inch). Using the thinner cushions provides another technique to adjust heights. Guldstrand used the thinner cushions to help adjust the ride heigth of my 68.
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by OzzyTom
If you provided some info on your car, someone might be able to help you.....

The AIM ( Assembly Instruction Manual ) for your particular year will have the details.
If you've got a 68, I can help out.
My car is a 1970 350/300 4sp 308 rear fairly stock except the the preveios owner put 50 seires tires front and rear and radious the fenders to match. I been told that this was a common practice in the 70's.
I looked up the ride height but the only dimentions I can find are from the ground to the top of the fender opening. This dose me no good as that has been modified.
How about the stock bumper height?
Ground to center of front and rear bumper. I know it my not be exact because of the differences in tire height but I can at least reference the difference in the two dimensions.
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 04:49 PM
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This is the typical AIM data for a 68.....




If you're not after NCRS certification, why don't you adjust it to your preference..... From aesthetics, having a smaller gap between top of tyre and guard is appealing.... just my opinion.
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 10:54 AM
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The numbers from the AIM for a 71 are close to the above. I installed the TRW and had to use the 10 inch bolts to get the ride height close to the numbers in the AIM. I cut the bolts down a bit so they don't hang out as far. Would I do it again, YES the ride is such much better then the steel spring.
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Sweet
I was sold a mono leaf to replace my wore out old leaf. The mono leaf jacked the car up so much that the rear of the car looks noticeable higher then stock. I'm being told that it's the right spring.
How do I check that the car is at stock height?
If your old leaf spring was worn out, then the car was probably sitting lower than specs before you changed out the spring. The mono leaf is less likely to sag over time, so switching from the stock 6" bolts to 8" bolts should put you very close to the AIM specs, and allow for a little more adjustment up or down to achieve correct ride height, or one that is at least aesthetically pleasing to you.
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Fordman
Long bolts will work but keep in mind that a 10" and longer bolt will be below the edge of the rim and if you have a tire go flat, the bolt end will hit the road and quite possibly do some damage.

Also you run the risk of the end of the mono leaf being too close for comfort with the tire sidewall.

I'm having just this issue with the rear of my 68 being too high. It has a TRW mono leaf which will be coming out and a VB&P mono leaf will be replacing it.
Anything over a 8" bolt (9" if you are running 17" wheels) is asking for trouble. If it is a TRW spring you are better off junking it and getting a VBP spring like Fordman. The TRW spring is known to jack up the rear 2"-3".
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