Ignition Lock Problem
The ignition switch is down under the dash, mounted on top of the steering column.
The ignition lock cylinder is the part where you insert your ignition key. It is located in the head of your steering column.
When you rotate your ignition key you rotate the lock cylinder. The lock cylinder is connected to a plastic gear (known as the sector.) The teeth on the sector engage a small die cast rack. The teeth on the rack translate the rotation of the ignition key to a push pull motion. The rack is attached to a rod that reaches down under the dash to the ignition switch.
You didn't mention if you had a standard (non-adjustable) column or a T&T. The mechanisms between the two steering columns are similar but they are not the same. One basic difference is the ignition switches. They operate in opposite directions. The T&T column operates the switch from OFF to RUN with a pulling motion (up toward the driver.) The standard column operates in the opposite direction (i.e. from OFF to RUN with a pushing motion - down toward the engine.) The lock cylinder is the same for the two columns.
FIRST DISCONNECT THE BATTERY
At this point I will describe some tests and adjustments with the steering column still in the car. These tests can be conducted with the column out of the car as well.
Now make sure that your car is in PARK (automatic) or REVERSE (manual trans.) I would then remove the plastic panel and the metal cross-piece from under the steering column. Now twist your ignition key from ACCESSORY to START and back. Does the rod reaching down to the ignition switch move back and forth with the key motion? If you have a T&T column, tilt the column from full down to full up. Does the rod motion move with the key regardless of tilt position?
If the rod motions seem regular then I would drop the steering column so that I could reach the fasteners on the ignition switch. You will need to remove the two nuts down on the floor mount plate and the two vertical screws that hold the column up into the dash. I would also suggest that you go out under the hood (under the brake booster) and disconnect the cable from the lever on the lower end of the steering column. Now move the lever so that it is all the way in the UP position.
Remove the ignition switch from the column. Is the motion of the rod with the rotation of the key still regular?
Now lets reinstall and adjust your ignition switch.
Here are the positions as you rotate your ignition key CW. ACCESSORY, OFF-LOCK, OFF, RUN, START.
When you rotate your ignition key from RUN to OFF there is nothing in the lock cylinder that should cause any noise. The detent that you should feel from RUN to OFF is inside the ignition switch.
Go out under the hood and move the lever DOWN. Now go back and rotate your ignition key toward OFF. You should be able to rotate the key CCW until it stops. That will be the OFF position.
Now take your ignition switch and use a small allen wrench or small phillips screwdriver to move the slide inside the switch from the end of travel two clicks from ACCESSORY to the OFF position. (ACCESSORY will be one extreme, START will be the other.) You should feel a spring return on the slide if you are in the START position, ACCESSORY will be at the other end of the slide position.) Moving it two clicks from ACCESSORY will place the switch in the OFF position.
Now carefully hook the ignition switch onto the rod on the column. You may need to tip and twist the switch to attach the slide to the rod. Now place the switch on the column and install the two fasteners. If things went properly, the column should now be in the OFF position and the switch should be in the OFF position as well.
You should now be able to move the lower column lever to the UP position. You should now be able to rotate the ignition key through all positions (from ACCESSORY to START.)
Now do things seem correct?
Please post as to what you find. Hopefully things are fixed. Otherwise let us know your findings and we can go from there.
Jim










