Steering question 1970
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
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From: shrewsbury Pa.
Steering question 1970
Posted a thread on this subject not long ago. Since then however, I've discovered something I need some help on. After replacing the "power steering cylinder", I finally got a chance to take it out a few weeks later for a drive. While going down the road the steering constantly "veers" to the right and left at its own Whim. I am constantly having to correct the steering to keep the car straight. Got it home and with the front end up off the floor, had the wife get in and turn the steering wheel back and forth while I got underneath to have a look. As she turned slowly back and forth there was a fairly loud "groaning" kind of sound coming from somewhere. After looking and listening very Intently, the sound I'm covinced is coming from the "power steering control valve". Also while looking at it I could see that there was a good bit of "free play" where the pitman arm enters the valve. #1 Should there be ANY free play at this point? #2 Could this be where the noise and steering problem is? Any help woud be appreciated.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 22
From: Marina CA
It appears you need to adjust the valve to get it centered. You will hear some noise in the cylinder if you were turning the steering wheel with the engine off and no power assist. This is the fluid being displaced in and out of the ram. You will have some play where the arm attaches because there is no pressure on the system. If you try this with the engine running and the system pressured up, the play is taken out.
Does the groaning sound like something binding up? If so that's another issue. Integral power steering is so much better than power assist steering but you work with what you have. On one of my blue oval projects I took off the power assist and installed a 605 Saginaw integral steering box, world of difference!
Does the groaning sound like something binding up? If so that's another issue. Integral power steering is so much better than power assist steering but you work with what you have. On one of my blue oval projects I took off the power assist and installed a 605 Saginaw integral steering box, world of difference!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: shrewsbury Pa.
It appears you need to adjust the valve to get it centered. You will hear some noise in the cylinder if you were turning the steering wheel with the engine off and no power assist. This is the fluid being displaced in and out of the ram. You will have some play where the arm attaches because there is no pressure on the system. If you try this with the engine running and the system pressured up, the play is taken out.
Does the groaning sound like something binding up? If so that's another issue. Integral power steering is so much better than power assist steering but you work with what you have. On one of my blue oval projects I took off the power assist and installed a 605 Saginaw integral steering box, world of difference!
Does the groaning sound like something binding up? If so that's another issue. Integral power steering is so much better than power assist steering but you work with what you have. On one of my blue oval projects I took off the power assist and installed a 605 Saginaw integral steering box, world of difference!
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 22
From: Marina CA
Get the valve adjusted correctly and your car should be tracking straight. Do you have the factory service manual or a Haynes or Chilton manual, they will have the procedure to balance the control valve. It's a fairly easy process starting with unhooking the cylinder from the frame bracket, starting the engine and seeing if the cylinder remains retracted or wants to extend. The trick is moving the adjustment screw in small increments until you get the cylinder rod to remain stationary. If the rod remains retracted, turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the rod starts to extend, then turn the nut counter clockwise until it starts to retract, then turn the nut back clockwise 1/2the amount of the previous adjustment until the rod stays put. Once this happens hook the cylinder back to the frame mount, start the engine and ensure the wheels stay straight without self steering right or left. If they remain straight, take the car for a test drive with a smile on your face because you just fixed the veering problem.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: shrewsbury Pa.
Get the valve adjusted correctly and your car should be tracking straight. Do you have the factory service manual or a Haynes or Chilton manual, they will have the procedure to balance the control valve. It's a fairly easy process starting with unhooking the cylinder from the frame bracket, starting the engine and seeing if the cylinder remains retracted or wants to extend. The trick is moving the adjustment screw in small increments until you get the cylinder rod to remain stationary. If the rod remains retracted, turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the rod starts to extend, then turn the nut counter clockwise until it starts to retract, then turn the nut back clockwise 1/2the amount of the previous adjustment until the rod stays put. Once this happens hook the cylinder back to the frame mount, start the engine and ensure the wheels stay straight without self steering right or left. If they remain straight, take the car for a test drive with a smile on your face because you just fixed the veering problem.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
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From: shrewsbury Pa.
[IMG]http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/squirrel56/hoodpop003.jpg[/IMG
As you can see by this pic, (that I took actualy for another thread on a differnet subject), it does show the P.S. control valve pretty well. As you can see, the nickel sized cover that should be there is missing. Question I have is,...... What is immediatly visible in the opening is a nut.Is this a lock down nut that should be removed first with an adustment screw underneath. I'm confused because the haynes shop dosen't mention a nut to be removed before you get to a set screw. It simply says to turn the adjusting nut one way or another. I did try the method of adjusting turning the nut in the manner you guys and the manuel instructed, It just didn't do the trick. Thats why I'm wondering if this nut needs to come off to reveal a set SCREW. Don't want to remove the nut without asking this first, for fear that if I remove it, "THINGS" may pop out and get lost or not put back correctly.
As you can see by this pic, (that I took actualy for another thread on a differnet subject), it does show the P.S. control valve pretty well. As you can see, the nickel sized cover that should be there is missing. Question I have is,...... What is immediatly visible in the opening is a nut.Is this a lock down nut that should be removed first with an adustment screw underneath. I'm confused because the haynes shop dosen't mention a nut to be removed before you get to a set screw. It simply says to turn the adjusting nut one way or another.
I did try the method of adjusting turning the nut in the manner you guys and the manuel instructed, It just didn't do the trick. Thats why I'm wondering if this nut needs to come off to reveal a set SCREW. Don't want to remove the nut without asking this first, for fear that if I remove it, "THINGS" may pop out and get lost or not put back correctly.
Last edited by squirrelguy; Feb 11, 2008 at 08:24 AM. Reason: more info
ooops
Cruising
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn NY
SG, the nut that you see is the adjusting nut mentioned above. Do not remove it all the way, or you will need to do some fenageling to get it back on. Try making larger adjustments until you do see some movement in the valve.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 115
From: Saginaw Michigan
This may be a little too late, but the Chevrolet Chassis Service manual says that you are not to turn the nut too much. It is a torque prevailing nut and too many turns of the nut could reduce the torque prevailing characteristics.
Jim
Jim
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
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From: shrewsbury Pa.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 115
From: Saginaw Michigan
Let's just say that it SHOULD come already balanced. However, DON'T under any circumstances reach through your steering wheel rim to twist your ignition key and start your engine the first time after replacing the valve.
Also I recommend trying to get the air out of the system BEFORE starting the engine. Jack up the front wheels. Fill the reservoir. Crank the steering system a couple dozen times. Refill the reservoir as required. You will be using the assist cylinder as a piston pump and push the oil with large air bubbles up into the reservoir where the air will disepate.
Jim
Also I recommend trying to get the air out of the system BEFORE starting the engine. Jack up the front wheels. Fill the reservoir. Crank the steering system a couple dozen times. Refill the reservoir as required. You will be using the assist cylinder as a piston pump and push the oil with large air bubbles up into the reservoir where the air will disepate.
Jim