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the 82s trans and the diff are more of a problem than the frame .do you still have the cross-fire?i would like to know what your paint code is .your car looks like mine .
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
At a minimum, install a spreader bar between the front towers and for pre-batwing years a solid diff x-member locating kit (3 point). Then, go by "the book" when you do lift the body. FWIW, I have some related bits in the works, but can't afford to complete development at this time.
At a minimum, install a spreader bar between the front towers and for pre-batwing years a solid diff x-member locating kit (3 point). Then, go by "the book" when you do lift the body. FWIW, I have some related bits in the works, but can't afford to complete development at this time.
Ooops, just now realized this is an old thread. Still, the advice stands.
Hey, Batman. Where you been?
Yes! The C3 frames will flex a lot and not just with 400-500 HP engines! I installed a spreader bar between the front upper A arms a couple of years ago and could not believe how much more solid the car drove versus without the spreader bar. Also, do a search on folks who have installed the shark bar (basically a mini roll bar) behind the seats which reinforces the center part of the frame and ties the bird cage to the floor.
The information on the torsional strength of the C2/3, C4 and C5 chassis setups in Dave McLellan's book Corvette From the Inside is quite interesting. He should know what he's talking about, having spent quite a while as chief engineer of the Corvette division.
On top of that, I just cut some parts off of a low-mileage, stock, very rust-free California '75 that my parts guy had in his shop. The car was declared to be unrepairable when it was discovered that the upper control arm mounts had torn almost completely free of the frame.
Don't need 400+ HP, either. I prefer the Hydroboost over the stock vacuum booster for several reasons:
1) you can remove it from the engine bay, rather than having to strip the dash apart.
2) it's a lot smaller, and a whole lot easier to work around.
3) it provides better braking power.
There's a reservoir in the system that gives you a few safety stops if the system loses pressure, along with it being a "fail-on" setup. If you lose pressure, eventually the brakes will just lock up and you won't go anywhere. If the system is still pressurized but the pump isn't turning, the only likely result would be an increase in braking force, I don't think it would completely fail.
Im Curious how the system would lock up the Brakes when the System Fail's? My 02 Silverado has a stock Hydroboost and when my neighbor used it he brought it back saying he burned up the PS Pump. I drove it and sure enough no PS and No power brakes. All I had to do was crank the steering lock to lock a few times and I bleed some air out and all was fine again, I had my Brakes back....
Don't need 400+ HP, either. I prefer the Hydroboost over the stock vacuum booster for several reasons:
1) you can remove it from the engine bay, rather than having to strip the dash apart.
2) it's a lot smaller, and a whole lot easier to work around. 3) it provides better braking power.
More pressure or power at the brakes does not mean it will stop better or faster
Hid out and did other things for a while. Car is almost done, just running down the remaining gremlins and re-upholsering some Recaros for it.
Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
The brakes will not lockup when you lose pressure. You just lose assist..it will stop and steer..just takes a little more effort.
JIM
My Hydroboost locks the brakes when it loses pressure. I had a problem with the return line fittings popping apart until I broke down and installed a dual-return P/S pump. Don't know why it does it, but it does. Left me motionless a few times until I got the lines reconnected and some fluid in the system.
Originally Posted by vette427-sbc
More pressure or power at the brakes does not mean it will stop better or faster
It feels better to me than the worn-out, spongy vacuum system, is easier to service, and leaves a lot more room to work on everything else. Seems like a winner from here. YMMV.
Last edited by I'm Batman; Apr 24, 2012 at 12:23 AM.
My Hydroboost locks the brakes when it loses pressure. I had a problem with the return line fittings popping apart until I broke down and installed a dual-return P/S pump. Don't know why it does it, but it does. Left me motionless a few times until I got the lines reconnected and some fluid in the system.
Well..something is seriously wrong with it. Hydroboost is just a brake assist..just like a vaccum booster is. It allows you to apply more pressure to a master cylinder. Taking pressure away from it is just like not having the engine running with a vacuum assist system. As long as your foot isn't on the pedal there is nothing to apply the brakes. Sounds like something is wrong with the accumulator system somehow that is applying pressure when you lose hyd pressure. When you crank it the accumulator is supposed to get *filled* by hyd pressure and held in reserve if you lose pressure...but even then it shouldn't apply anything to the master cylinder unless you press the pedal. I'd sure hate to be cruising down the road and lose a PS belt on that thing. I'd surely do some diagnosis before something bad happens.
Well..something is seriously wrong with it. Hydroboost is just a brake assist..just like a vaccum booster is. It allows you to apply more pressure to a master cylinder. Taking pressure away from it is just like not having the engine running with a vacuum assist system. As long as your foot isn't on the pedal there is nothing to apply the brakes. Sounds like something is wrong with the accumulator system somehow that is applying pressure when you lose hyd pressure. When you crank it the accumulator is supposed to get *filled* by hyd pressure and held in reserve if you lose pressure...but even then it shouldn't apply anything to the master cylinder unless you press the pedal. I'd sure hate to be cruising down the road and lose a PS belt on that thing. I'd surely do some diagnosis before something bad happens.
JIM
It's a serpentine setup now, and the accumulator does it's job. If the P/S system goes out, it works normally as the accumulator runs out of pressure. I'll diagnose it further as I go, and it's possible that there was something else going on when that happened.
Last edited by I'm Batman; Apr 24, 2012 at 03:39 AM.
I've not worried about strengthening my frame, but I'd be interested in reading that manual. What is it in?
It's called "Chevrolet Power". MANY years ago, I got mine from the parts department at my local Chevy dealer.
It discussed engine mods for the small block and big block, and chassis upgrades to the Corvette C3 chassis for racing.