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I want to have the nitrous come in when releasing the transbrake button without using the delay box (as I haven't hooked it up yet).
I wonder how I'll have to set up the wiring to achieve that.. As the transbrake feed is +12 volt when activating the solenoid and no power when releasing it, I'd need a relay that flows 12 volt when no power is applied to it and no current when 12 volts are applied? Is it possible to make a regular relay work like that? Do I need a special relay? Any input is appreciated!
eventually i have to do the same thing on my 61 chevy belair. my thinking was to use a timer to activate the switch on the carb for the nos right after the transbrake sw is released???
eventually i have to do the same thing on my 61 chevy belair. my thinking was to use a timer to activate the switch on the carb for the nos right after the transbrake sw is released???
vc
I don't want a timer.. I want the spray to come in once the button is released to get a harder launch.. My 60' time off a regular transbrake launch (without the nitrous) was 1.45.. The car should be able to get as fast as 1.29 60' times without spinning, so I can launch much harder..
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
There is a relay you can use, I wired my car the exact way you described you want yours to work. I went to an electronics store and explained to them what I wanted to do and they set me up...cost me 5 bucks. (edit) Daren named the actual relay.
Are you considering a progressive ? or do you plan on bringing in a 250 hit right off the transbrake?
Btw, it is tricky to do over the internet, but I can just about guarantee the nitrous tune you are running is rich and there is more power in the jets you have now. If the engine is tuned correctly NA; most plate systems will make the most power at 5.5-6lbs. of fuel pressure with the jets squared (same size). Gotta learn how to read nitrous plugs to be safe. With plates it is a good idea to do all 8 plugs every now and then when you do plug checks due to the distribution issues some plates can have.....particularly in cylinder #6 in a 23* SBC.
Good luck. That car is going to launch MUCH more aggressively when you wire it to bring in the nitrous at the drop of the Transbrake !! hang on and make sure you are pointed in a straight line.
Dan is out for the week as I believe he is at some kind of show/exhibition.. I'll try to get ahold of someone else.. but Dan is usually the guy that I talk to..
How do you get the relay to shut off when power is applied instead of turning on? How does that need to be wired. The instructions with the relay only show you how to activate it by applying power and not how to deactivate it when applying power...
I don't want to go the progressive route as my retard system won't work with the progressive controller.. Considering the tight converter, 1.80 first gear on the tranny and 3.73 gear in the rear, I should be able to launch off the 250 shot with the transbrake without a controller.. I'm first going to see how it'll react with the 100 HP shot off the transbrake and then I'll increase the shot and unless that the car comes up too high at the launch, I will run the full shot without a controller..
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Feb 12, 2008 at 08:45 AM.
You only have to use the contacts called COM ( common ) and N.C. ( normally connected ) to switch your application and it will work the way you want...
You don't need to use the N.O. ( normally open ) contact.
Don't forget to choose a relay with a 12V DC coil...
Last edited by 73StreetRace; Feb 12, 2008 at 08:49 AM.
There is a relay you can use, I wired my car the exact way you described you want yours to work. I went to an electronics store and explained to them what I wanted to do and they set me up...cost me 5 bucks. (edit) Daren named the actual relay.
Are you considering a progressive ? or do you plan on bringing in a 250 hit right off the transbrake?
Btw, it is tricky to do over the internet, but I can just about guarantee the nitrous tune you are running is rich and there is more power in the jets you have now. If the engine is tuned correctly NA; most plate systems will make the most power at 5.5-6lbs. of fuel pressure with the jets squared (same size). Gotta learn how to read nitrous plugs to be safe. With plates it is a good idea to do all 8 plugs every now and then when you do plug checks due to the distribution issues some plates can have.....particularly in cylinder #6 in a 23* SBC.
Good luck. That car is going to launch MUCH more aggressively when you wire it to bring in the nitrous at the drop of the Transbrake !! hang on and make sure you are pointed in a straight line.
John
I'll get one of them Bosch relays! Who carries those? I'm aware that my tune was very conservative and I stuck to what the manual of the system suggested.. Picking up 8 mph ain't bad for a 100 shot on a car that already runs in the 9's on engine.. I have not pulled the plugs yet since I made the nitrous pass. Anyways, the trip back to the pits probably distorted the reading anyways.. Unfortunately, I can't just stop on the return road to pull the plugs... It would take minutes just to cool down to be able to remove them plugs.. I don't have a cart to tow my car back to the trailer..
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
When you run a progressive (most guys) run the full amount of retard at activation. Trying to "chase" the timing with some kind of ramp feature is not easy to do with nitrous.
I like your plan of trying to get the car to launch on the full hit and see what happens... that being said I know of several guys who had the same idea and had to buy a new a mew oil pan, headers, and a few other things that got smashed. We will know more the first time you launch it with the nitrous on at the release of the T brake....make sure one of your buddies video it
When you run a progressive (most guys) run the full amount of retard at activation. Trying to "chase" the timing with some kind of ramp feature is not easy to do with nitrous.
I like your plan of trying to get the car to launch on the full hit and see what happens... that being said I know of several guys who had the same idea and had to buy a new a mew oil pan, headers, and a few other things that got smashed. We will know more the first time you launch it with the nitrous on at the release of the T brake....make sure one of your buddies video it
John
I'll do it with the 100 shot first and work my way up 50 HP at a time.. At my current 1.45 60' time, there's a lot of room before I'll make a 4+ feet wheel stand.. On my all engine transbrake launch, the car came up less than 1 foot.. If it comes up too high with the 100 shot, I'll try to launch off the footbrake with the larger shots..
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I'll get one of them Bosch relays! Who carries those? I'm aware that my tune was very conservative and I stuck to what the manual of the system suggested.. Picking up 8 mph ain't bad for a 100 shot on a car that already runs in the 9's on engine.. I have not pulled the plugs yet since I made the nitrous pass. Anyways, the trip back to the pits probably distorted the reading anyways.. Unfortunately, I can't just stop on the return road to pull the plugs... It would take minutes just to cool down to be able to remove them plugs.. I don't have a cart to tow my car back to the trailer..
When I do plug check I bring the proper tools (and spare plug) gloves, etc in the car with me, after the run I pull the hood off, pull a plug and replace it with the spare plug I brought, throw the hood back on and drive to the pits. Takes less than 5 miuntes. I have some mechanics gloves that makes it easy to work around those hot headers.
When I do plug check I bring the proper tools (and spare plug) gloves, etc in the car with me, after the run I pull the hood off, pull a plug and replace it with the spare plug I brought, throw the hood back on and drive to the pits. Takes less than 5 miuntes. I have some mechanics gloves that makes it easy to work around those hot headers.
The space to get to my plugs is very tight and I'm unable to get the plugs out when I'm wearing gloves.. I'm sure that it's possible but It's a real pain..
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
The space to get to my plugs is very tight and I'm unable to get the plugs out when I'm wearing gloves.. I'm sure that it's possible but It's a real pain..
Sounds like you need a big block
As for your 60' times, nitrous and wheel stands.....nitrous launches are a whole nuther animal. Nothing comes out of the hole like a nitrous car. Turbos and blowers might run us down, but we always leave harder.
As for your 60' times, nitrous and wheel stands.....nitrous launches are a whole nuther animal. Nothing comes out of the hole like a nitrous car. Turbos and blowers might run us down, but we always leave harder.
What kind of 60' time improvement do you expect on a car that gets a 1.45 60' time of a non-nitrous transbrake launch?
It all depends on how well your car handles the extra power. If everything works right I could see a best case scenerio of mid 1.2xx's
That would be with a 250 shot - right? How about with a 100 shot? Can't imagine that a 100 shot would get 2 tenths off my 60' time..
I think that the I.R.S. is capable of high 1.2x's. That's the best 60' times that I've seen.. Anything faster than 1.30's will probably cause the car to sit on the rear bumper
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
That would be with a 250 shot - right? How about with a 100 shot? Can't imagine that a 100 shot would get 2 tenths off my 60' time..
I think that the I.R.S. is capable of high 1.2x's. That's the best 60' times that I've seen.. Anything faster than 1.30's will probably cause the car to sit on the rear bumper
Yes, I meant best case with as much nitrous as the car / chassis, etc will handle.