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I know to use the one piece Felpro oil pan gasket on my 76- 350 but what rear main seal should I use?I have seen single lip ,double lip and offset lip. I assume I have the single lip now. The engine had been rebuilt 1000 mi. ago. It leaks at rear main now.Thanx in advance....Dale
First, inspect the butt of the crank? Can you see or feel a groove with your finger? The seal will actually cut a small groove int he crank, and even with a new single lip seal this is where a lot of oil leaks out.
If you have the groove, then You can replace it with an offset lip seal, or a double lip seal. I think the double would be best, but part of it will still ride in the groove.
Thanx Db ,I don't have the pan off yet.I am just assuming that with over 100k on the engine that the crank had a grove .I didn't know if the double seal or off-set is better.I had it rebuilt but I think the builder just put a single lip in it. It leaks pretty good .
Thanx Db ,I don't have the pan off yet.I am just assuming that with over 100k on the engine that the crank had a grove .I didn't know if the double seal or off-set is better.I had it rebuilt but I think the builder just put a single lip in it. It leaks pretty good .
Either will be better than the single lip seal.
One other thought...are you sure it's the rear seal and not the back of one of the valve covers leaking a little down the back of the engine?
One other thought...are you sure it's the rear seal and not the back of one of the valve covers leaking a little down the back of the engine?
Yes, I tracked it with inspection cover off it only leaks when engine is shut-off.which is the best pan seal ? Mr.gasket for 47.99 or felpro for 23.99?Both are the one piece.Thanx
When you will install your new real seal, do not aligne the two faces with tha faces of the main cap...... rotate the seal of some 10-15° .... it will help a lot!
Yes, I tracked it with inspection cover off it only leaks when engine is shut-off.which is the best pan seal ? Mr.gasket for 47.99 or felpro for 23.99?Both are the one piece.Thanx
You won't be able to use a one-piece rear main seal. Your block calls for a two piece and you can't convert unless you pull your engine block and replace it with an '83 or later I think.
You won't be able to use a one-piece rear main seal. Your block calls for a two piece and you can't convert unless you pull your engine block and replace it with an '83 or later I think.
I was refering to the one piece pan seal.I know the rear main is the 2 piece .
.I had it rebuilt but I think the builder just put a single lip in it. It leaks pretty good .
Once you get pan off ... stop there & have an expert determine what seal you have now and if it's installed right. If install OK maybe you need the other seal or maybe crank rougher than usual. Heck you might have an offset and need a double or vsv etc etc. Don't speculate on it now ... have a pro get in there & determine what's required. Just because 10 guys on the internet tell you red marbles are best .... that don't mean it's so ... maybe they're going on rumor & some personal experience ... maybe not.
I was refering to the one piece pan seal.I know the rear main is the 2 piece .
Gotcha. I personally like the Fel-Pro seals best. Also, another possibility, is the guy who did the previous work may have install one half or even the whole rear main seal backwards.
Gotcha. I personally like the Fel-Pro seals best. Also, another possibility, is the guy who did the previous work may have install one half or even the whole rear main seal backwards.
I did get a Felpro oil pan seal from AZ . The only rear main they carry is a ROL seal made in Canada.It was the double lip.It has the same # as the seal in Noonie's post.Black in color though.I still don't have the pan off yet to see whats going on .I have read to turn the seal a few degrees when in and some archive posts say no rtv and other say use rtv.Thanx everybody.
Last edited by 76 VETTE; Feb 15, 2008 at 11:28 PM.
Once you get pan off ... stop there & have an expert determine what seal you have now and if it's installed right. If install OK maybe you need the other seal or maybe crank rougher than usual. Heck you might have an offset and need a double or vsv etc etc. Don't speculate on it now ... have a pro get in there & determine what's required. Just because 10 guys on the internet tell you red marbles are best .... that don't mean it's so ... maybe they're going on rumor & some personal experience ... maybe not.
My car is up on blocks and the weather up here is too nasty to to take it anywhere to have a pro look at it.I would think it was installed correctly because the builder had been doing it for over 30 years.I think it might have failed early because car was in a flood.Since then the car has been restored and the engine runs great. Thanx fo the input.
I too had my rear seal replaced last year when having a valve job done and now it leaks worse than before they replaed the seal. They said they would re-do the job, but if they couldn't get it right the first time ------- IS there any step by step procedure laid out with pictures in case I want to do this job myself? Any tips or any special type of seal I should buy in order to make this job a success the second time around?
IS there any step by step procedure laid out with pictures in case I want to do this job myself? Any tips or any special type of seal I should buy in order to make this job a success the second time around?
Thanks
There is a step by step layed out by a few of us, but no pictures that I recall. It's not a hard task...I did mine in about an hour, but it involves unbolting the idler arm and dropping the suspension a bit so the pan can come off.