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I'm a rookie at this and everything has been going very well up until this point on the frame and suspension rebuild. Last night i tried to install the M21 on the 427 and the trans went in easily but was around a half-inch short of touching the bellhousing. I worked on it until midnight last night and started to throw tools so decided to call it a night This morning i took everything apart and think that i know why but need some expert help to confirm. The pilot bearing is flush with the rear of the crank and it looks like there is at least another inch behind it inside the crank cavity that it could be sunk which would give me plenty of room to get the trans in. Question - should the piolot bushing be flush or should it be sunk further into the crank? thanks for any advice i tried to push it in further but think that it is canted and didnt want to do any further damage. i can sedn a pic of current state if needed.
thanks - what do you mean by indexing the bh to the crank center? it seems that i may either have the wrong bellhousing or the input shaft on the trans it too long.
Double-check your clutch alignment. I recently rebuilt a toyota 5 speed and the plastic alignment tool that came with the clutch was loose enough that the actual input shaft would not fully seat into the pilot. I was also about 1/2" shy of the bellhousing mating to the block. I finally had to use an old input shaft to make sure shaft would fully engage pilot bearing. Just a thought.
If it's a 1/2" away, then the trannie input shaft didn't engage the splines on the clutch disk. Push the trannie back to where you had it, then have a helper depress the clutch pedal while you rotate the output shaft (trannie in a gear) and push it home. Good luck.
If it's a 1/2" away, then the trannie input shaft didn't engage the splines on the clutch disk. Push the trannie back to where you had it, then have a helper depress the clutch pedal while you rotate the output shaft (trannie in a gear) and push it home. Good luck.
If it's a 1/2" away, then the trannie input shaft didn't engage the splines on the clutch disk. Push the trannie back to where you had it, then have a helper depress the clutch pedal while you rotate the output shaft (trannie in a gear) and push it home. Good luck.
I had some of the same issues when I assembled my motor/trans out of the car. When I released the pressure plate it allowed the clutch disk to align itself with the spline and it went right in. Your pilot bushing does not have to sit exactly flush either. lots of guys leave them stick out slightly. If in doubt take some measurements and you'll see.
this is likely the issue. problem is that the body is off so not clutch pedal to push .........and no "helpers" i'll figure it and i'm sure that one of these responses is the problem and i will owe someone a case of brew i had so many other things to bolt on this weekend and this is consuming all my time - what a PIA.
You don't necessarily need a helper, I know the feeling. With the linkage removed you can take a 2 x 4 wedged agaist the clutch fork and get enough leverage to depress it and release the pressure on the disk. A little awkward but it can be done with some imagination easily.
I don't mean to disagree with previos posts but a half inch tells me that the input on your tranny has some play and it's not going in to pilot bushing.just try jiggling the tranny as you push this has worked for me on worn tranny imputs
If it's a 1/2" away, then the trannie input shaft didn't engage the splines on the clutch disk. Push the trannie back to where you had it, then have a helper depress the clutch pedal while you rotate the output shaft (trannie in a gear) and push it home. Good luck.
I don't mean to disagree with previos posts but a half inch tells me that the input on your tranny has some play and it's not going in to pilot bushing.just try jiggling the tranny as you push this has worked for me on worn tranny imputs
The input shaft is not lined up with the pilot bushing. Remove the trans, use the alighnment tool to center the disc perfectly, (an old input shaft is much better to align this) and try again. You want the alignment tool to be perfectly perpendicular to the clutch assembly and with uniform play in all directions when you wiggle it. (Yes, they suck.)
The plastic ones do really suck, I made a better one from a wooden dowel I bought at the hardware store that I turned down in an old lathe. I built up the area where the clutch disk rides with electrical tape! Worked perfect!
you guys were right - it was an alignment issue i played with the clutch disc alignment and it finally just slid in tight - nice this is a great site especially for rookies to connect to REAL mechanics. i'm sure that i'll be back to the tech section as i move along.