phoenix

My winter project of redoing the front suspension and getting the steering and brakes to perform better has turned up some new problems.

My rear brake calipers are rusted through (pinholes) and cannot be fixed. So I will be buying replacements. The emergency brake is the original one which means that my rotors are original too. Then while I am there do I also do my bearings????

Arrrgghhh this while I am at it attitude is going to kill me.:cry

Since I have to drill out the rivits on my rotors to replace the e brake, should I just get new rotors too? How can I tell if I need new ones?

Which ones to get? Is there a big difference between the originals and the performance rotors other than the price?

Someone posted earlier about the Autozone brake calipers. They are $60 with $25 core charge and they have a lifetime warranty on everything, even if you POR15 them which is what I will be doing.

Thanks again for the info

Barry's70LT1

phoenix...
I would not replace you rotors unless they are worn too thin or are warped.
I think the original rotors are made of better "stuff" than the new replacements.
I'm not sure of what the minimum thickness measurement is, however
someone must know and will post it.

The original rotor/spindle combination was machined as a "set". if you replace
the rotor, you could have a non true spindle surface and then with the new 'true" rotor, you end up with runout.
By having this rotor not run true, it will pump against the caliper pistons and
introduce air into the brake system. This causes a soft pedal or no brakes at
all.
If you do use your original rotors, you must mark the "exact" location from
where they were removed, and replace them accordingly.
This will prevent a possibility of runout.

I still have my original rotors and parking brake.

I did do the bearings this fall. I was getting a bit nervous about going
on a long drive with 31 year old bearings with original grease in them.
When removed, the bearings were fine, however the grease was very very dry. I suspect I would have had a failure with any kind of sustained high speed driving. The cost of the bearings is very cheap. I replaced mine
with new and used synthetic grease. Should out last me.

Good luck on whatever you choose to do.
Barry

phoenix

Thanks Barry.
I like the idea of saving money by not replacing everything. I am always a little hesitant to leave 30 year old parts in when I am replacing everything else.

How difficult is it to drill out the rotors? Is it a problem to get it back in position afterwards?

Are the bearings any more difficult than the front once I have all of the brake parts and rotors off?

Thanks

Techno

Since I broke a spindle in a parking lot I highly suggest doing the bearings while your there. Escpecialy if your car seemed to have been dragged early in its life.
On the front end I did a stupid, I re-used the bolts and lock washers.
To make a long story short the lock washers snapped and allowed the A-arm bolts to loosen. The upper right bolt was gone, the A-arm rotated off and hit the fan shroud and fan, the bent fan hit the radiator. Shroud and fan shot. The left side had a broken lock washer but with a gap too small for it to drop off the bolt, thats how I knew what happened. All the bolts were loose. It took weeks before I trusted driving the car again. I checked them everytime I took it out.
Of course I bought new lock washers this time.

Turbo-Jet

min thickenss= 1.215

max runout= .004 (i think)

MikeE.79

I wouldn't worry about the rotors unless the brake pads were shot at which time when you put new pads on you should have the rotors turned to smooth them up. There is a minimum thickness for the rotors and if you can't turn them without exceding the minimum tolerance than they will have to be replaced, not until. Now days it seems the quality of replacement rotors is not as good as in the past so I recommend if they're not broke don't fix them. :seeya

GTR1999

Mike I just mailed you.
gary

Barry's70LT1

I would not turn the old rotors without the spindle attached.
The reason not to turn them separately is as I mentioned in my first reply.
The rotor and spindle were machined/turned as a unit when new.
When you turn the rotor without the spindle you have a good chance
you will have runout.

Phoenix.....
Replacing the rear bearings is not a simple task. You need some very specific
tools. There are some great descriptions/theories in past threads on how to
do this. Try doing a search, they should still be there.

It seems that most members send their arms out to be serviced.
Since that is not easy to do in this part of the world, I made most of the tools
required, and only bought a dial guage.

It's not a difficult task, you just need a good understanding of the job.
I and others that have done this can offer lots of help if you decide to
try it yourself.

Barry

paso

turbo-jet is bang on

woodworkr

Barry is right on the rear bearings. They are a bear and need special tools and some know how once you are in there. As far as the brake package I got the super kit from Muskegon Brakes (talk to Shawn Fox, she knows her stuff) which came with 4 ss calipers, brake pads, new master, all ss lines and rubber hoses, clips, 2 qt dot 5 fluid. To that I added 4 new rotors ($60 ea, $55 when ordering 4) inner and outer front wheel bearings and seals, all new lug studs and lug nuts. After receiving the refund on the core charge ($50/ caliper) all of the parts came to about $650 total. Best thing I ever did, well almost anyway, at least I can stop now.
As far as the rivits, it is easy to drill them out on a drill press using pleanty of oil to lube, they are only aluminum. Little more difficult on the car but can be done. You dont have to replace the rivits, they were used on the assembly line to speed unit production. Lugs will hold everything steady.
One word of advise, remember to torque down the calipers. I think they are 70 lbs, you had better check that though (may only be 30 I forget now).
Good Luck,
JoeB

GTR1999

I drilled out a few C3 rivets and they were all steel, never saw an aluminum one used for the brake rotors? have one in my hand and it measures .346" shaft diameter. This is off the rear rotors of my 72.
Gary