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What should the RPM idle be once the car is warm? My current idle RPM is at 10 once warm, but seems to be high. I say high because when I put it into reverse to back out of the garage the rear end lifts as if it is ready to go. It goes into gear smoothy, but seems like I have my foot on gas, which I don't.
My only comparison is to my Jeep GC, which is not noticable at all. Granted there are many years difference between a 96 and an 82, but I want to get other 82 owners opinion.
Hopefully it's just a vacuum leak. I had poor idle and bad throttle responce. Ended up bringing my 82 to someone experienced with crossfire engines. It cost about sixty bucks to fix. Good luck.
Hopefully it's just a vacuum leak. I had poor idle and bad throttle responce. Ended up bringing my 82 to someone experienced with crossfire engines. It cost about sixty bucks to fix. Good luck.
thats high. You probably have a vaccum leak. Need this....just the big one..
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I have the same problem with my 78 L-82. Will not idle below 1000 even when warm. I have adjusted the timing per one of the tech papers on the forum and that helped somewhat, but still idles rough and will kill if I turn the idle screw so it idles below 1000. Think this is vacuum leak? I just bought this car and am still working through all of the issues under the hood. Picture is intake manifold gasket?
I have the same problem with my 78 L-82. Will not idle below 1000 even when warm. I have adjusted the timing per one of the tech papers on the forum and that helped somewhat, but still idles rough and will kill if I turn the idle screw so it idles below 1000. Think this is vacuum leak? I just bought this car and am still working through all of the issues under the hood. Picture is intake manifold gasket?
That big gasket is only on the 82 and up. Our intakes are two pieces. That gasket is the number one problem on the 82 when it comes to vaccum leaks and higher idle. Thats a must change gasket if you have never done it. No silicon either.
The other cause of high idle on the 82 is the CTS (Coolant temp sensor),O2 or MAP. Leaks also in in the EGR,PCV or headlights system.
Your problem is something else. Not to say its not vaccum related. You can test for leaks. I'm not entirely familiar with your car. But common sources are the lines that go to the headlights. The PCV valve and the EGR. Unplug and cap all those things momentarily see if it makes a difference.
Chock is also a cause on the carb cars...are the plates in the carb closed? Do they look closed all the way. is the choke working? More open the plates are the higher the idle.
Lastly you have the advance to deal with. Not sure how that works on yours. If the advance isn't working right it will cause a high idle.
Time for a new thread. I'm sure someone will be along with answers.
there is a sticker on your firewall just above the brake booster that indicates exactly what the correct idle and timing specifications are for your car.. or at least there should be.
As stated most likely vac leaks - Cross - Fire is very sensitive to leaks . Check all of the bolts around the TB plate and make sure they are torqued to spec , also as stated go over the vac lines looking for any disconnection / leaks.
Also check out the Cross fire Vault http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/cftest/default.asp
Lots of very experienced cross fire specific guys over there who will work through your issues with you
Good luck
As stated most likely vac leaks - Cross - Fire is very sensitive to leaks . Check all of the bolts around the TB plate and make sure they are torqued to spec , also as stated go over the vac lines looking for any disconnection / leaks.............
too.
I don't have an 82 but my 84 is basically the same engine. It idled all over the place when I got it. Mine had most of the the upper manifold bolts loose, several so much so that I could turn them w/my fingers. Also found a couple minor vacuum leaks too. Then I removed the IAC motors from the TB's and cleaned those and the passages w/carb cleaner as they were pretty dirty. After all that it has idled and run fine for several years now.
As an additional note, I also had another driveability issue occur a few months after I got the car. Turned out the O2 sensor was crudded up and reacting so slowly that is was causing the computer to fall back into the open loop, "pre-canned programming" normally used while the engine is cold and until the O2 sensor is heated and ready to go. The O2 sensor was only $20 and after replacing it the computer stayed closed loop and car responded and smelled much better because it wasn't running sloppy rich all the time. FWIW
I'll check with my mechanic but I'm pretty sure my idle problems were caused by worn throttle shaft bushings leaking air.
This certainly can be an issue for crossfire TB's too. However the only real fix I was aware of is to disassemble, remove the TB's, drill them out, add a bushing and reassemble. Hard to believe that all could have been done for $60 so I'm very curious what your mechanic did if you had a throttle shaft leak. I'm sure if I keep the 84 long enough, I'll have to cross this bridge too.
That big gasket is only on the 82 and up. Our intakes are two pieces. That gasket is the number one problem on the 82 when it comes to vaccum leaks and higher idle. Thats a must change gasket if you have never done it. No silicon either.
The other cause of high idle on the 82 is the CTS (Coolant temp sensor),O2 or MAP. Leaks also in in the EGR,PCV or headlights system.
Your problem is something else. Not to say its not vaccum related. You can test for leaks. I'm not entirely familiar with your car. But common sources are the lines that go to the headlights. The PCV valve and the EGR. Unplug and cap all those things momentarily see if it makes a difference.
Chock is also a cause on the carb cars...are the plates in the carb closed? Do they look closed all the way. is the choke working? More open the plates are the higher the idle.
Lastly you have the advance to deal with. Not sure how that works on yours. If the advance isn't working right it will cause a high idle.
Time for a new thread. I'm sure someone will be along with answers.
Jim
Thanks for all of the suggestions. My headlights (of course) do not go up and I will be solving that issue later. The EGR system, EFE system, AIR pump, Heat riser all all missing as PO put headers on the car and evidently thought all of this junk was not needed. It could possibly be the EGR though because the vacuum sensor on the intake manifold is broken and could be leaking--I will check this and plug it. Also, not real sure is choke is working correctly as car is hard starting at cold, but restarts fine when warm. Also, will not hold a steady idle until real warm, fluctuates a couple hundred RPM and will sometimes go low enough to kill if you aren't tinkering with the gas pedal. Has HEI dist with mechanical and vacuum advance--have ordered the Mr Gasket replacement adjustable vacuum advance with the spring assortment to adjust timing advance--this may help also. Thanks, and I will gladly take any other suggestions from the forum.