Trailing Arm Bolts Strip
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 88
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From: PORT ST LUCIE FLORIDA
Trailing Arm Bolts Strip
I JUST REBUILT THE BACK END OF THE CAR ,STRUTS , TRAILING ARMS ,ALL BUSHINGS AND REAR WHEN I INSTALLED THE TA'S THE NUT STRIPPED OFF THE FRONT BOLT I JUST TIGHTENED THEM TO THE ALIGN THE COTTER PIN, HOW TIGHT DO YOU MAKE THESE,
ANY HELP APPRECIATED THANKS IN ADVANCE
ANY HELP APPRECIATED THANKS IN ADVANCE
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
Welcome to the Forum. Please fill out the registration form so that we know what year Vette you have. This will enable us to provide you with the requested info. 
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,352
Likes: 787
From: Redondo Beach, California
Were these repro trailing arm bolts? If you lay a repro bolt along side of an original factory bolt, you will see a difference. What you will see is that the repro bolt has an extended threaded area. (The repro bolt threaded area will dig into the frame hole..not good).
If you've got a repro bolt and its breaking easily, there's a chance the bolt was made in China from melted down coat hanger wires.
If you need an original factory bolt, look at the bolts that mount the differential to the torque bracket (the tongue like bracket that transmits diff torque to the frame crossmember through the rubber cushion). On my 68, these bolts were the same as the trailing arm bolts. Since the torque bracket really doesn't need these type of bolts, I replaced them with grade 8 and salvaged them for use in the trailing arm.
If you've got a repro bolt and its breaking easily, there's a chance the bolt was made in China from melted down coat hanger wires.
If you need an original factory bolt, look at the bolts that mount the differential to the torque bracket (the tongue like bracket that transmits diff torque to the frame crossmember through the rubber cushion). On my 68, these bolts were the same as the trailing arm bolts. Since the torque bracket really doesn't need these type of bolts, I replaced them with grade 8 and salvaged them for use in the trailing arm.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
Were these repro trailing arm bolts? If you lay a repro bolt along side of an original factory bolt, you will see a difference. What you will see is that the repro bolt has an extended threaded area. (The repro bolt threaded area will dig into the frame hole..not good).
If you've got a repro bolt and its breaking easily, there's a chance the bolt was made in China from melted down coat hanger wires.
If you need an original factory bolt, look at the bolts that mount the differential to the torque bracket (the tongue like bracket that transmits diff torque to the frame crossmember through the rubber cushion). On my 68, these bolts were the same as the trailing arm bolts. Since the torque bracket really doesn't need these type of bolts, I replaced them with grade 8 and salvaged them for use in the trailing arm.
If you've got a repro bolt and its breaking easily, there's a chance the bolt was made in China from melted down coat hanger wires.
If you need an original factory bolt, look at the bolts that mount the differential to the torque bracket (the tongue like bracket that transmits diff torque to the frame crossmember through the rubber cushion). On my 68, these bolts were the same as the trailing arm bolts. Since the torque bracket really doesn't need these type of bolts, I replaced them with grade 8 and salvaged them for use in the trailing arm.
So you just used a regular nut an bolt on the differential tongue mount?
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,352
Likes: 787
From: Redondo Beach, California
Yes, a grade 8 bolt and grade 8 nut. The grade 8 nut was a lock nut with the nylon sleeving to prevent it from coming loose. The bolt was a little long, so I trimed in down in length with a die grinder.
