New cam?
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Instructor
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Westchester ohio
New cam?
While I have the rad out , I was thinking about upgrading cam. Engine is stock L48 w/ true duals , no headers,no cat ,no smog . What would be a good cam selection ? L82 cam?
TIA
TIA
Last edited by busterpelvis; Feb 20, 2008 at 07:53 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
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From: Ansonia/NYC CT
I am looking at the eddlebrock performer cam and lifter kit. It's only 120 bucks, and looks right up my alley. Make sure you replace the main bolts, though. Or your crank might decide to go for a walk in the park....THAT is my biggest fear with this L48. Too much torque, not enough main bolts...and buy buy motor. What is your power goal? Mine is 350-400.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Little Rock AR
I am looking at the eddlebrock performer cam and lifter kit. It's only 120 bucks, and looks right up my alley. Make sure you replace the main bolts, though. Or your crank might decide to go for a walk in the park....THAT is my biggest fear with this L48. Too much torque, not enough main bolts...and buy buy motor. What is your power goal? Mine is 350-400.
-Mark.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Seattle Area WA
You can check out Summit's cams, Scroggin Dickey sells the same kit as well.
For a low compression L-48 you'll want to keep your duration short and with the stock exhaust manifolds you'll want a cam with a wider LSA for less overlap. Look over the SUM-K1102 kit and maybe the K1103 kit for a L-48. If you are ambitious, you can also replace the stock head gaskets with a Fel Pro 1094 to gain a bit more compression. Don't forget to have the distributor recurved, it is the biggest bang for the buck improvement you can make.
For a low compression L-48 you'll want to keep your duration short and with the stock exhaust manifolds you'll want a cam with a wider LSA for less overlap. Look over the SUM-K1102 kit and maybe the K1103 kit for a L-48. If you are ambitious, you can also replace the stock head gaskets with a Fel Pro 1094 to gain a bit more compression. Don't forget to have the distributor recurved, it is the biggest bang for the buck improvement you can make.
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Instructor
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From: Westchester ohio
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From: Taylor Michigan
Intermediate
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Comp XE 256 or 262H.
We used to use the 204/214 hyd cam (made by most everyone) but we've found that the small extreme energy grinds from Comp give you the improved mid range and top end that the stock cam lacks and low torque either stays the same or improves. The 204/214 cam tends to be a bit soggy on the bottom end and leaves you wanting more at higher RPMs.
We used to use the 204/214 hyd cam (made by most everyone) but we've found that the small extreme energy grinds from Comp give you the improved mid range and top end that the stock cam lacks and low torque either stays the same or improves. The 204/214 cam tends to be a bit soggy on the bottom end and leaves you wanting more at higher RPMs.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Collierville TN
I agree, I put a Summit 1102 in my L48 last year to hold me over until the 383 is built. Its a nice upgrade over stock. I'm running it with the Summit 165cc SBC heads (which are Dart Iron Eagle SS) and a Weiand 8004 manifold. Its a nice setup for a mild upgrade.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Ansonia/NYC CT
I'm not adding bolts, I am just replacing the stock ones with ARP main bolts. Do you think that would not be necissary? After the cam, I will be running with new headers, new intake, new carb, and new air filter. Plus 2.5 inch true duals, with no carbs. I figure this just HAS to put at the 300hp range. Which will tide me over till I get done with doing suspension work, and get started working on a plan for the 350-400 hp goal.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Seattle Area WA
I think you are over estimating a realistic HP goal with just a cam, header, intake change with a low compression L48 (approximately 8.25:1). You'll be better off keeping the 750 cfm capable Q-jet and just swapping out the intake with a Performer. You might get to 250 crank HP with all the changes. Yes, changing out main bolts is a waste of time and money at this point. The motor won't see much over 5,500 RPM at this time anyway. Don't forget to recurve the distributor.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
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From: Ansonia/NYC CT
I think you are over estimating a realistic HP goal with just a cam, header, intake change with a low compression L48 (approximately 8.25:1). You'll be better off keeping the 750 cfm capable Q-jet and just swapping out the intake with a Performer. You might get to 250 crank HP with all the changes. Yes, changing out main bolts is a waste of time and money at this point. The motor won't see much over 5,500 RPM at this time anyway. Don't forget to recurve the distributor.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
I think you are over estimating a realistic HP goal with just a cam, header, intake change with a low compression L48 (approximately 8.25:1). You'll be better off keeping the 750 cfm capable Q-jet and just swapping out the intake with a Performer. You might get to 250 crank HP with all the changes. Yes, changing out main bolts is a waste of time and money at this point. The motor won't see much over 5,500 RPM at this time anyway. Don't forget to recurve the distributor.
IMHO you'll need better flowing, smaller chamber heads for more compression to get to 300+. If/when you take that step you can always go back in and change the mains to studs at that time, but I wouldn't worry about it otherwise. Caution: should you over-cam with your low CR you'll be very disappointed, so I'd err on the small side.
Le Mans Master
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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