Dim Dash Lights on my '79
Thread Starter
5th Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I had the same problem on the 76', so I took out the dash, and it was basically one of the more horrible experiences with that car, lol. The switch wasn't bad though, it was the wires. They were all dried and cracked, so I cut the problem area, and spliced in new wire, for as far as I could reach. Someday, I've got to just replace the harness all together....
but yeah, to your problem, for me, it was just bad wires, rubbing and grounding, etc.
but yeah, to your problem, for me, it was just bad wires, rubbing and grounding, etc.
Thread Starter
5th Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Your problem is likely to be one of two things. 1.) someone (previous owner, etc.) has changed out all of the bulbs and put the wrong bulbs back in (lower wattage than specified); 2.) the rheostat in the light switch is worn out. My guess is that #2 is most likely the problem. If you turn the rheostat from "OFF" up through its full range, and it reaches maximum [although weak] brightness well before you reach the end of its travel, the stat is defective. If is gradually goes from dim to max brightness near the end of the rotary travel, its not the switch.
Dan
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 337
Likes: 10
If you really want to put this to bed, you have to pull the speedo / tach cluster and the gauge cluster and ditch the flex printed circuit and connector and hard wire, creating a new "lead away" wire loom with strain relief. I was able to modify the bulb sockets so wire could be soldered to them, and still retain the twist lock function. I left a "S" of extra wire between each socket for removal. It turned out very nice.
My dash lights are plenty bright enough now, using whichever bulb was the brightest (168 or 192? ....can't recall right now) and UPSIZING the black ground and gray instrument light circuit wire. I grounded both my gauge clusters to a new frame ground spot and did not use the stock ground wire in the harness. I also ran the upsized gray all the way to the head light switch reostat. Brake, brights and turn indicators are ofcourse brighter as well.
I am totally pleased. Worth all the effort....The connector plugging into the recess and making contact of the printed circuit "fingers" just was not a long term solution....it was a cost solution.
My dash lights are plenty bright enough now, using whichever bulb was the brightest (168 or 192? ....can't recall right now) and UPSIZING the black ground and gray instrument light circuit wire. I grounded both my gauge clusters to a new frame ground spot and did not use the stock ground wire in the harness. I also ran the upsized gray all the way to the head light switch reostat. Brake, brights and turn indicators are ofcourse brighter as well.
I am totally pleased. Worth all the effort....The connector plugging into the recess and making contact of the printed circuit "fingers" just was not a long term solution....it was a cost solution.
Thread Starter
5th Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Des moines Iowa
