When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It's the drivers side one that's not working. Where are the two TBI fuses located? What about the rich problem, intake gasket, TBI bases gaskets, both? Is the fuel pump in the tank?
tbi fuses in the fuse block .fuel pump in the tank .it can be removed from the top .but it is working some what or you would not have fuel on one injector.check fuses.
Thanks. The one that's working is really putting out some fuel. It's blowing black smoke and will burn your eyes from the gas.
It will do that with one TBI working only. The sensors are all confused.
Check the fuses, better yet just change them. Flip the wires. Let us know what it does.
Its hard to say what's entirely wrong with your car. I have no way of knowing what was tampered with.
Is the engine light on? Does it even work? It should go on when you turn the key to on and go off once the car starts.
I would also need to know what you hear when you do the following. get in the car, turn the key to on don't start it, listen real good, do you hear a buzz (about 2 seconds) from the pump from behind you followed by a funny noise (about 1/2 a second) from the injectors?
I bought a used 82 that had CFI in 1982. Car only had 6000 miles on it when I bought it. Was a great deal at a Chev dealer used car lot. After having the car for a couple of months, I realized why it was such a great deal. Being as the car was still under factory warranty, it spent the majority of time in the shop while they tried to resolve the CFI issues. I have known other folks who have never had a problem. I must of had a Monday or a Friday built car!!
I just bought the car but I don't have it home yet, but it's only a couple of miles away. I just looked at it briefly where it sits. I'll check the fuses when I go back over there to get it. Hopefully I can change the fuses and drive it home. Do any of you know what size the fuses are? Are they glass or blade fuses?
I just bought the car but I don't have it home yet, but it's only a couple of miles away. I just looked at it briefly where it sits. I'll check the fuses when I go back over there to get it. Hopefully I can change the fuses and drive it home. Do any of you know what size the fuses are? Are they glass or blade fuses?
OK, I went and got the 82 today, I only had to drive it a couple of miles to get it home. When I went over there the first thing I did was pull both TBI fuses and replace them. Started it up and surprise, both injectors are pumping gas. Those guys had been fooling around with it for month and couldn't get the #1 injector to work. Looks like a lot of fuel though. Ran like crap, probably has fouled spark plugs from the nitwit fooling around with it for so long. Plus they had been turning the distributor back and forth who knows where the timing was. Anyway, I'll get to it maybe this weekend. I can't get the passenger door open. It looks unlocked, and I can hear it click when I try the inside door handle but it won't open.
Do a visual first. Don't mess with anything. Let's try to figure out what they played with.
Timing is easy enough to check. With the gun on and blipping the throttle the mark on the balancer should advance. Keep in mind the advance is created by the computer. To set base timing you need to diable the advance. You do this by disconnecting the wire that sends the signal to the computer. It is a tan wire with a plug on the driver side of the engine running down along the head near the firewall and just over the bell housing. You will know when you have the right wire disconnected. The timing mark will no move when you blip the throttle. Once you figure this out you can set the timing to 6 degrees before top dead center.
The above is the first thing to do.
Eyeball each TBILISI and make sure all the hoses are connected and the port on each TBI sticking out the furthest is capped. This eliminates vaccum leaks.
Look down the throat of each TBI. At the 12 o'clock mark you will see a tiny slit. Each TBI has one of these slits. The throttle plate in each TBI must cover the exact same amount of this slit. Check and report back.
Next find the IAC's. One on each TBI. The IAC is plugged into the front of each TBI. With the cleaner off you can look down the hike in each TBI directly in front of where the IAC is screwed in. Each IAC has a pin that moves un and out adjusting air flow to each TBI. Both pins have to go in and out in sync....exactly in sync because both TBI's have to get the exact same amount if air.
I didn't see a check engine light but I was too busy just trying to keep the thing running. As for idling it was where ever I kept my foot on the pedal. It died twice. Once about 10 feet from the driveway I pulled out of and again two feet inside my own driveway as I got home. Wouldn't start again so I towed it up the drive (with a Ford of course) and I'll get to it in a couple of days.
The ironic thing is I'm a Ford man. I've got three Bronco's, a 87 F250, and a lot of older Fords. But, now I've also got a third Corvette. Got to have something to work on you know.
I put new spark plugs in as I figured they would be fouled. It now starts but runs very rich and will not idle. It's blowing a lot of black smoke and stinks of fuel. While I'm keeping it running I've played with the timing a little but I can't get it to idle. Both TBI's are working but it looks like a lot of fuel is coming out of them. While I'm keeping it at 3000rpm or so every so often it misses and I've noticed the TBI stop pumping for a fraction of a second when the miss occures. The biggest issue is why it's so very rich.