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Brakes vibrating on stop

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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 12:55 PM
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Default Brakes vibrating on stop

When hitting the brakes, the pedal was vibrating a bit and you could also feel it in the floor. Felt like warped rotors so I replaced the rotors when I replaced the pads a few weeks back. On the front right, the inside pad was worn down to the pad's backing plate and the piston was tough to push back at first. I figured the caliper was shot and the piston was stuck so I replaced the caliper too.

After new pads, rotors and caliper, the vibration is much, much better however, it's still there a bit. When I ease the brakes on lightly or mash the brakes and stop quick, the vibration is barely noticeable. When applying normal braking pressure coming to a redlight or stop sign, you can still feel the vibration a little bit (nowhere near what it was before but, still there a bit).

I drove it about 300 miles with new rotors and pads before replacing the caliper. Is there a chance the pads have to reseat or something?
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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Did you check the new rotors with a dial indicator, you may have to shim them.
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by gve
Did you check the new rotors with a dial indicator, you may have to shim them.
Just because they are new they may not be 100% true. As gve stated, use a dial indicator check for run out.
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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I agree but also torque your lug nuts too even if you are running steel rims.
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by gve
Did you check the new rotors with a dial indicator, you may have to shim them.

The new rotors may be true, but the hub may be off.
0.1 degree = 0.010" runout at 6"
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 02:36 PM
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Have the rotors resurfaced, or at least the one you think is warped. Best to do all that were replaced. Your first mistake is that they should have been resurfaced as soon as they were re-hubbed. But never too late.
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
Have the rotors resurfaced, or at least the one you think is warped. Best to do all that were replaced. Your first mistake is that they should have been resurfaced as soon as they were re-hubbed. But never too late.
Out of round rotors is not uncommon but merely turning them may not solve the problem. I have read on the NCRS DB that the best way to ensure true roundness is to have the rotor turned while it is on the car. I remember reading that some Chevy dealers have this machine.

Iirc, the problem occurs because you have an out of round rotor and even a hub that may not be true, as others have stated. The way I check mine is to use a dial indicator on the rotor while it is attached to car.

Gary
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryS
Out of round rotors is not uncommon but merely turning them may not solve the problem. I have read on the NCRS DB that the best way to ensure true roundness is to have the rotor turned while it is on the car. I remember reading that some Chevy dealers have this machine.

Iirc, the problem occurs because you have an out of round rotor and even a hub that may not be true, as others have stated. The way I check mine is to use a dial indicator on the rotor while it is attached to car.

Gary
All a dial indicator will do is confirm its out of round. Most of the time the out of round situation is from the re-hub. They have to be turned at this point because they will never go back together with the same exact configuration. Those on car machines are not that good either. Too much monkey motion connections nor is the Ammco machines any better. You cannot beat a GOOD drum/rotor machine like a Van Norman. They cut true' but are only found in a few auto parts machine shops because of costs. There not exactly cheap. But you get what you pay for and no combacks or recuts with a Van Norman...

How do I know, well we have two of them
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryS
The way I check mine is to use a dial indicator on the rotor while it is attached to car.
To determine if the rotor is flat:

Install the rotor on the car and check runout using a dial indicator as noted.

Mark the high spot on the outside of the rotor and on the end of the bolt that is closest to the high spot.

Take the rotor off and repeat this check with the rotor in all 5 positions.

If the high spot follows the rotor mark, the the rotor needs to be turned.
If the high spot follows the bolt, the hub is off.

Turning the rotors on the car will eliminate runout.
However, if you ever take the rotors off, you have to make sure they
go back exactly the same way or they could be out again.
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 06:16 PM
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why is or are there so many individuals afraid to take a rotor off. Chucking the rotor on the races makes them as square as you can possible get. The rotor machine eliminates all the guess work and cuts it at the same time truing it. Thats all that necessary. You dont have to degree a rotor, it`s not a camshaft.
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
Chucking the rotor on the races makes them as square as you can possible get. The rotor machine eliminates all the guess work and cuts it at the same time truing it.
I suspect most rotors are perfect right out of the box.

You can turn that rotor all day and it will still have runout if you mount it on a hub with a 0.002" bump.
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