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I'm getting ready to weld/repair a couple of rust holes in the frame by the driver side kick-up (body is off the frame). As it's been a while since I've done any good welding, I thought I'd get in a little practice by closing up the stitch welds along the frame (see pic) instead of burning up good steel.
Anyone see a problem with doing this?
I figure it can only make the frame stronger. And if looks bad, I can grind it down and start over. The whole frame is going to get blasted and painted anyway.
Just didn't want to overlook some obvious reason (drainage, flex, etc.) I shouldn't do this! Thanks!
Yeah, I had planned on blasting, or at least wire brushing, the joints before I welded.
It's hard to tell from the pic, but most of that crap on the frame is some time of undercoating sprayed on years ago. If you scrape off the top dirt layer, it is black underneath...kind of like tar. It melts off in the solvent tank though as I have had to remove it from lots of suspension parts.
If it has undercoating on and the pic looks like it does, I would definiately sandblast it before welding, telling the blaster to pay special attention to the existing seems and definitely not use any solvent on it before welding. The solvent will melt the undercoating into the seam and cause hell when the welder heats it up.
Welding up the seams is not a problem. Just be sure its nice and clean and don't run any long beads, use the same stitch welds the factory used so you don't build up any stresses in the frame. Go in between the existing welds first, then come back and do the gaps, but skip around.
Yeah, I had planned on blasting, or at least wire brushing, the joints before I welded.
It's hard to tell from the pic, but most of that crap on the frame is some time of undercoating sprayed on years ago. If you scrape off the top dirt layer, it is black underneath...kind of like tar. It melts off in the solvent tank though as I have had to remove it from lots of suspension parts.
I found that my crappy little sandblaster wouldn't take off that undercoating - it just pushed it around a little. Laquer thinner works well for removing the undercoating. Ironically, the only parts of my new frame that had any rust pitting were the areas under the undercoating.
I found that even sandblasting the seams didn't get all the oils and dirt out from underneath. Go get yourself a good angle grinder and a wire cup brush attachment. Burn any oils from underneath the seams with a torch. No matter what you do, you are going to get some spatter from contaminants unless you acid dip the frame.
I found that even sandblasting the seams didn't get all the oils and dirt out from underneath. Go get yourself a good angle grinder and a wire cup brush attachment. Burn any oils from underneath the seams with a torch. No matter what you do, you are going to get some spatter from contaminants unless you acid dip the frame.
Acid dipping still doesn't solve it. I still had a hard time welding the seams. I ended up running a crappy weld, grinding it down and running a good bead. Using a Oxy Fuel Torch would be much easier but I didn't have one.
Acid dipping still doesn't solve it. I still had a hard time welding the seams. I ended up running a crappy weld, grinding it down and running a good bead. Using a Oxy Fuel Torch would be much easier but I didn't have one.
I had to do that on a couple of seams as well - it is very hard to get a good weld the first time, no matter how hard you try. Wear long sleeves and pants, or you're gonna get burned from the spatter
Wow! Thanks for the tips. I knew I was probably making this too easy. Nothing else has been so far!
I've got most of the undercoating off by scraping, applying solvent or degreaser, then scraping some more. I still plan on wirebrushing off the remaining big pieces before I blast the frame myself.
Still have to build my blasting tent. That's next after the welding.
Wow! Thanks for the tips. I knew I was probably making this too easy. Nothing else has been so far!
I've got most of the undercoating off by scraping, applying solvent or degreaser, then scraping some more. I still plan on wirebrushing off the remaining big pieces before I blast the frame myself.
Still have to build my blasting tent. That's next after the welding.
Thanks again!
Just don't **** off your neighbors with the sandblasting like I did They already hated me, but now they hate me even more
Acid dipping still doesn't solve it. I still had a hard time welding the seams. I ended up running a crappy weld, grinding it down and running a good bead. Using a Oxy Fuel Torch would be much easier but I didn't have one.
If you simply use a propane torch to run a preheat on the seam before welding, the solvent or acid will be burned out(good ventilation is a must!), then a quality weld bead will be possible on the first try, and be sure to back step the weld to eliminate distortion.
If you simply use a propane torch to run a preheat on the seam before welding, the solvent or acid will be burned out(good ventilation is a must!), then a quality weld bead will be possible on the first try, and be sure to back step the weld to eliminate distortion.
Most of the welds I was able to get down nice and smooth the first time, but other welds were almost impossible to lay smooth - and yes, I tried the propane torch trick as well, and it really didn't help that much. If you plan on welding up the frame, add some gussets to the front end to strengthen it up. Here is a thread I started; you can see all the welds I did and where I added gussets to strengthen everything up. I think its on the first page.
Last edited by stinger12; Feb 25, 2008 at 04:09 PM.
I had to do that on a couple of seams as well - it is very hard to get a good weld the first time, no matter how hard you try. Wear long sleeves and pants, or you're gonna get burned from the spatter
I've seen the car your working on, looks good. A good welder can lay a perfect bead on anything the first time. Keep practicing ! IMHO I would practice your welding on something other that your frame, like a piece of scrap metal. You don't want to stress something that you really rely on in a crash.
I've seen the car your working on, looks good. A good welder can lay a perfect bead on anything the first time. Keep practicing ! IMHO I would practice your welding on something other that your frame, like a piece of scrap metal. You don't want to stress something that you really rely on in a crash.
It isn't the welder (I am a very good welder) - its the surface prep on the frame. Thirty odd years of rust under the seams messes with your welds, no matter how hard you wire brush or clean it up. I guess it depends on how rusty the frame was to begin with. Either way, I highly recommend you practice your welding before you attempt to work on the frame...a couple days on scrap metal and you will be good to go