When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Change the tranny fluid when the tranny is warm after driving. If you want to be very thorough you can drain the radiator cooling system by unhooking the lines and blowing air through the upper line.
Just makes sure that you check the fluid level and add as needed when you fill her and start it again because the cooling tanks on the radiator will need to fill, as well as the lines.
Say-ok got it trans warm-fill'it with the car on correct?
No, you fill it with the engine off until it reaches it's full point. Then start it, and check fluid level. Add if needed. Go for a drive. Go back and shut it off, and wait a few minutes and check the level again. That is when it should be full. Add unil it is full if it's not already.
Last edited by Durango_Boy; Feb 25, 2008 at 07:07 PM.
Evening, you need to put some tranny fluid in it first so it has something to circulate through it. How much you put in first depends on how much you took out. Did you drain the torque convertor, or just the pan and lines to the cooler? If it is just the pan 4 or 5 quarts should be good so you can start it up and cycle between reverse-low 1- low 2- drive and back to park a few times and then see whrere it is at on the dipstick.
Awesome thanks! What I was planning on doing was this weekend--and just replacing the filter and pan fluid. But you guys are talking about trans lines as well huh? Would it be wise for me just to stick with that? Or, perhaps drain the lines as well, what I mean to say is will mixing the fluids do any harm to the transmission? Massive Thanks!
When refilling, you will only need to bring the level up to the add mark, then drive the car 10-20 miles to get the fluid hot. Transmission fluid expands with temp and you do not want to overfill the system. A cold system will move from the add mark towards the full mark. It it does not read full after driving, add what you think will expand to bring it up to full.
Sweet, so drop the pan(after the cars warm) , and replace the filter...pour fluid to the "add mark" then drive around for 10 miles. Then check again>? Is that correct? My brother was telling me about putting it in drive when filling thats why I was asking you guys---figured you'll have worked on Vettes before...
You want the engine running in park or neutral when you check the level on the dipstick, but definately not when you drain it. If there is no fluid circulating while the car is running, the transmission won't last long.
Exactly, have the car warm, drain with it OFF. Replace the filter. How many quarts?(anyone have a clue) Add fluid, to "add mark" drive for about 10 miles. Check, then add if need be.
i would drop the pan when cold, so you dont burn yourself. wiggle the filter off push the new one on. replace the pan gasket, should torque bolts to prevent leaks. add 4qt. start the engine check it after few minutes, at till on shows were it should on stick(many sticks are diferent, some say cold,hot or have graphs) get the engine up to operating temp. recheck stick, then you can go for a good drive the recheck.
Has this transmission ever been re-built, if not. Please remember trans fluid is a excellent cleaner, it may clean the old clutches so well they may start to slip. Sometimes the old oil is better to be left alone, unless your having problems with the transmission. Just a word of caution on what can happen.
Good Luck
Something you may want to do later also.....they make a plug that you can drill/tap your torque convertor so you can drain it when you change the fluid to get most if the old fluid out. Dont know if you could use anything like a hand siphon pump to evac the system or not....
You definatly want to drain it warmed up, warming up should kick up any particles and get them floating, you'll have a better chance of getting them out with the old fluid warmed/hot.
There should also be a magnet in your pan, take that out and clean real well before reinstalling, should be real slimy looking, generally in the corner of the pan.
It's a dirty job so rubber gloves etc... your gonna need.
Measure and replace what you take out, then recheck levels once driven and warmed up later again.
You definatly want to drain it warmed up, warming up should kick up any particles and get them floating, you'll have a better chance of getting them out with the old fluid warmed/hot.
There should also be a magnet in your pan, take that out and clean real well before reinstalling, should be real slimy looking, generally in the corner of the pan.
It's a dirty job so rubber gloves etc... your gonna need.
Measure and replace what you take out, then recheck levels once driven and warmed up later again.
I don't believe you'll find a magnet in the pan unless someone added it. My '76 did not come with one, nor did the '75 that I once owned.
How bad is it to change the filter? I was thinking about doing this on my '75 before spring hits. Can it be done quickly? I don't have any issues, but since I'm working on many other things, I figured could be a good 'bonus' in the tune up department.